Clicking on Ruckus 2WD Brushless

Thanks in advance for any help, I am fairly new to the RC world so go easy on me

History: My brother gave my son and I a gently used ECX Ruckus 2WD brushless. Everything was stock. We had it out a few times and the 2400mAh battery that came with the truck was not lasting longer than 10-15 mins. So we went down to the shop to get a spare battery that would last a little longer. We got a 5000mAh battery that ended up being defective. The battery got so hot during the first 10 minutes of using it, that it melted all the plastic coating. We brought it back that day and since they didn't have another, we got a 4000mAh lipo. He showed us how to set the cut-off and we were good to go.

We had about 5 sessions @ around 40 mins a pop until my son t-boned a curb and snapped one of the front arms. We replaced them with RPM arms and were good to go. We had another few sessions until one of the ears on a rear shafts snapped. After doing some poking around we went with the stainless steel ones from hot racing. I noticed that when I put the right rear tire on, and spun the wheels, it made a strange clicking sound and would only spin the left wheel if I was spinning the wheel very slowly.

Here is a video of the sound () when pushing the truck back and forth a few inches.

i am new to the RC world as well but that sounds a lot like a stripped spir gear to me. I have had to change 3 on my sons amp so far...

Grym, did you find out what the clicking sound was? I agree with 4wd4ever, it sounds like a striped spur gear. Did you have this clicking sound before you changed your axles? The clicking sound also could be coming from the differential as some of those gears are plastic. I would recommend going to an all metal diff and metal spur gear.

GrymReaper said:

Thanks in advance for any help, I am fairly new to the RC world so go easy on me

History: My brother gave my son and I a gently used ECX Ruckus 2WD brushless. Everything was stock. We had it out a few times and the 2400mAh battery that came with the truck was not lasting longer than 10-15 mins. So we went down to the shop to get a spare battery that would last a little longer. We got a 5000mAh battery that ended up being defective. The battery got so hot during the first 10 minutes of using it, that it melted all the plastic coating. We brought it back that day and since they didn't have another, we got a 4000mAh LiPo. He showed us how to set the cut-off and we were good to go.

We had about 5 sessions @ around 40 mins a pop until my son t-boned a curb and snapped one of the front arms. We replaced them with RPM arms and were good to go. We had another few sessions until one of the ears on a rear shafts snapped. After doing some poking around we went with the stainless steel ones from hot racing. I noticed that when I put the right rear tire on, and spun the wheels, it made a strange clicking sound and would only spin the left wheel if I was spinning the wheel very slowly.

Click to expand...

Hello!

Mine makes the same sound. I'm not sure what comes stock in the brushless Ruckus, as when I got mine, there were no pre-built RTR brushless options. I ended up replacing the stock brushed ESC and Motor with a Dynamite Tazer brushless combo.

At any rate, when I roll the truck back and forth it makes that same clicking sound. I assumed it was from the fact that the motor is a sensorless brushless motor. More investigation revealed the sound was coming from the transmission (the piece that the driveshaft ears bolt to). I haven't stripped out a gear, I replaced them all with the Ruckus metal gear set, as well as a Robinson Racing gear years ago and they've worked out well (I took a 4 year hiatus from the hobby so that's part of the reason I haven't replaced my gears yet).

More than likely that sound is the sound of the gears clicking together as you move the wheels back and forth. The reason I don't think its a stripped gear is because the truck runs normally. I did think it was a stripped gear. I should also add that I broke one of my CVD driveshafts this past weekend and bought the Hot Racing steel drive shafts. When I was connecting those is when I heard the clicking. It sounded familiar (remember 4 years hiatus from the hobby and had to get my senses back in action), immediately I thought I had to replace whatever gear was stripped out. But, connecting a battery and test driving the truck showed normal operation.

So, my conclusion was, it was the sound the transmission gears make when I rotate the wheels manually. Just check to make sure the truck is operating normally. If it is, then you're good to go. If it doesn't move then its a stripped gear.

Both my brushless cars do that the strong magnets in the motor will make the gears rattle against each other. It may not seem like it but all the gears have small play between them.
They only make that noize when pushed slowly.

Sorry for the long time for my response. It appears that the diff grease/fluid was super low. I tossed in some 50k with a few drops of 75k I had left and it is all fine now. All the gears in the trans were fine.

Fluid low? Where is this ? I own two ruckus and never had to fill a diff. Grease yes, fill. Never

topher33 said:

Fluid low? Where is this ? I own two ruckus and never had to fill a diff. Grease yes, fill. Never

Click to expand...

Most everyone will be greasing up their diff. Years ago I saw a mod on Ultimate RC where you install some o-rings, fill the diff with heavy silicone gear oil, and seal it up with some gasket maker. It changed the way the diff operated; I did it mainly to prevent the Ruckus from diffing out when doing doughnuts, but it also improved its performance through turns for me.

I found my extra metal diff, and o-rings, but I can't find my countersink that I used to mod the diff to fit o-rings. once I figure out which size counter sink I used, I'll be able to post up a guide in case anyone here wants to try it.

But yeah, some are using silicone diff oil, others are using grease.

This Thread is a Tad old, but I wanted to throw my experiences in for those diagnosing the "clicking sound and the one wheel not turning".
*When tightening the rear wheel/axle nuts, ITS POSSIBLE TO OVER TIGHTEN, which binds the axle bearings in the rear hub carriers...usually damaging one of the bearings.

-There are two ways to fix this......1).Inspect/Replace the bearing that's bad(usually one on outside towards wheel) & use more care when tightening the axle nut. Tighten until wheels spins with slight resistance, then back off 1/8 turn.
2). Install Shims or a custom spacers between the two axle bearings inside the hub carrier.
*#2 is best choice, allows you to crank down the axle nuts harder.

DantheMan said:

This Thread is a Tad old, but I wanted to throw my experiences in for those diagnosing the "clicking sound and the one wheel not turning".
*When tightening the rear wheel/axle nuts, ITS POSSIBLE TO OVER TIGHTEN, which binds the axle bearings in the rear hub carriers...usually damaging one of the bearings.

-There are two ways to fix this......1).Inspect/Replace the bearing that's bad(usually one on outside towards wheel) & use more care when tightening the axle nut. Tighten until wheels spins with slight resistance, then back off 1/8 turn.
2). Install Shims or a custom spacers between the two axle bearings inside the hub carrier.
*#2 is best choice, allows you to crank down the axle nuts harder.

Click to expand...

I agree it is really easy to damage the bearings from over tightening. Sometimes I make that mistake and one time my front left tire actually did go rolling off without the car because the inner bearing was crushed.

Sorry if the thread is a bit old. I'd like to know if someone knows the dimensions of the bearing spacer. Few weeks ago I busted several rear bearings and I believe I have just discovered what's the reason.
Thanks in advance.

Aunion said:

Sorry if the thread is a bit old. I'd like to know if someone knows the dimensions of the bearing spacer. Few weeks ago I busted several rear bearings and I believe I have just discovered what's the reason.
Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

I don’t know what “bearing spacer” you are talking about because my 2wd torment, I can crank down the wheel nuts so far I can snap the little drive pin in the axle without binding the bearings at all. I also have traxxas 12mm drive hexes aluminum hub carriers and different axles. I also modded the front so they don’t bind.

I

Aunion said:

Sorry if the thread is a bit old. I'd like to know if someone knows the dimensions of the bearing spacer. Few weeks ago I busted several rear bearings and I believe I have just discovered what's the reason.
Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

I can look next time I clean my car, the hot racing axles come with one. Should be some time next week. Send me a reminder if I forget...

Thanks for your answers.
Some driveshafts come with a spacer/washer/sleeve (sorry if it's not the correct word, I'm Spanish) that goes between the two rear bearings in the rear hub. You can make your rear bearings bind when you crank down your wheel nut, making the wheel not to roll freely, and usually busting the bearings. I suppose this spacer doesn't allow the bearings to go into the hub joining themselves when cranking the wheel nut.
Hope it all makes sense

Yeah yeah It's a small aluminium shim with one of the hot racing driveshafts. You can see it on their website.
I'll look asap.

That's right.I think it also comes with the MIP X-Duty Cvd's.

https://i.imgur.com/CUfvesN.jpg

5x7x2mm aluminum washer is what comes with the HR driveshafts.

Thanks a lot. Helps a lot.