ecx 2wd metal gear trans-outdrive shaft? loose

pretty sure that is what i'm referring to...
the shafts on the transmission that the driveshafts screw onto

well i've recently noticed mine have a bit of play
you can grab driveshaft and wiggle it and see the outdrive shafts move back/forth/around few mm's all directions

is that how they always are? or is that supposed to be tight/no wiggle?
did i mess mine up?
took it apart, didn't see any stripped teeth

only $30, but wanna know if there is anything i can do myself or if i need to order new one

thanks

ok thanks...
moving on then...

how much grease should be in the diff? stock stuff seems pretty watery
gonna repack it, just not sure how much
just liberally on gears so teeth stay covered?
or fill it full and wipe of excess after put re assembled?

I have 2 sets of the steel gear trannys with maybe 10 to 15 hrs on them. I have 2 stock plastic sets with who knows how many hrs on them, and 1 brand new plastic set that was never used. The steel sets are in the trucks now. The driver side has no slop on both, but the passenger side does. On the ones not installed, if I push the shaft in, there is some slop, if I pull them out, no slop. So id say the slop is normal, and on mine, there is no room for the driver side to push in a tad to have the slop.
As for grease, I redid one with marine grease, packed it full. It's always seeping out slowly. The other one I left as it was, and it's not seeping. Maybe the best option is to redo it with a better grease, but about the same amount it came with. (Think it was about half full of grease?)
If you are looking for more like a limited slip differential, throw a silicone earplug in the spider gears.

Steve g said:

If you are looking for more like a limited slip differential, throw a silicone earplug in the spider gears.

Click to expand...

Is this for real? What's a silicone earplug? Like, same material as nitro fuel lines silicone, or something else?

Never had a nitro fuel line, but probably not the same. Some people use silly putty, and there even is a diff putty. But something like Mack's silicone earplugs, or any silicone earplugs from the dollar store or Wal-Mart or similar places, seem to be the best for the price. Homedepot has them too

any suggestion for grease?
just rebuilt with thick red high temp bearing grease
not sure if it's gonna work or not
just seems to build up in middle between all the gears

That grease is fine. The stickier the better for the diff. Sticky grease in the spider gears won't rob power. It will build up in the middle but the gears won't go dry, unless you run out of grease in there, which won't happen for a long time.

thanks

Joshnewb said:

pretty sure that is what i'm referring to...
the shafts on the transmission that the driveshafts screw onto

well i've recently noticed mine have a bit of play
you can grab driveshaft and wiggle it and see the outdrive shafts move back/forth/around few mm's all directions

is that how they always are? or is that supposed to be tight/no wiggle?
did i mess mine up?
took it apart, didn't see any stripped teeth

only $30, but wanna know if there is anything i can do myself or if i need to order new one

thanks

Click to expand...

This is how bad mine are after almost 3 years of abuse.

yeah, took apart entire tranny yesterday
took off outdrive shafts, took off m3 nuts, cleaned all up
tightened down locknuts as far as possible and still a little play
guess it's just the way it is, if outdrive shaft was like 1-2 mm shorter, would be no play
unless they designed it this way? not sure, i'm no engineer
but if they've lasted 3 years for slick2500, then i probably can stop worrying
thanks for video

The diffs out on these are in dire need of internal shimming, I have not looked into what shims will work yet, but I will look here in a bit.

that's funny slick
i just found and ordered an ECX shim set today (ecx1052)
was gonna use it to eliminate some wheel slop, never thought of the diff
when they arrive i'll see if they will work for both

think the back side of the diff gears would hold them in place?

the slop in the outputs is from the metal shaft having rounded the plastic journal it sits in, replacing the diff case (or the big trannsmission gear) will fix your slop, after a while of being rubbed friction has worn the plastic away a little

tried shimming diff output shafts, one on each shaft was too tight
put one shim on one side, fit better, but while spinning the transmission, would feel/hear slight grinding/catching spot
so no shims it is, in transmission anyway

What about new bearings ?

just put in all new bearings, on whole truck
wheels and transmission

I appear to be having similar issues with my ECX AMP Buggy.

I broke an axle so I replaced with Hot racing metal axels and now I appear to have a bit of slop and both tires don’t seem to want to spin at the same time. One axel seems like it is constantly slipping not engaging inside the transmission. If I wiggle the shafts around and put more tension on one side both rear tires spin. Once I put some resistance on the tires it’s back to one wheel which sometimes also slips. Not sure what is wrong. Everything worked good till the axle broke. Can’t find any other damage.

Brand new axels and brand new all metal transmission.

I’m likely going to strip the whole thing down tonight or tomorrow and start the rear end rebuild from square one. Anyone with any tips or clues as to what might be wrong would be much appreciated!