1/18 Ruckus summer build

WithinU

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Hi gang,
I thought this would be a cool project.
I purchased a plethora of stuff for a 1/18 Ruckus, from a fellow forum member, at what I thought was a pretty good deal.
Then I thought crap what am I going to use this stuff on.
I happened to win a fairly good auction on Ebay, a 1/18 Ruckus no body and no transmitter. $30 shipped.
It does have a few issues off the bat, but not to crazy, fingers crossed the drive train is in tact. But it visibly looks good.
So, I got the car and the parts, it's time to make a build thread.
Now this won't be an ALL out build, but it is my first foray into anything (size wise) not 1/10th scale, it's so tiny!!!
It also happens to be the first 4x4 vehicle I have ever messed with.
Looking at the 1/18 scale car, they crammed that stuff in there..... LOL
For now if the brushed motor is good it will stay that way, for the time being. Then slowly add a brushless system.

I'm excited about it! I welcome any tips or tricks, now or along the way.
Photo #1: The car! Photo #2: The parts!!

1-18 Ruckus Project.jpgthe parts.jpg
 
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If you still have plastic bushings in the axle carriers replace them. The brushed motor didn't last to long for me on lipo but of course I expect my minis to run in grass also (not tall grass). The pinion is plastic and the shaft on the motor has no flat spot for a grub screw the pinion is just pressed on. The original diffs had no shims inside them the newer ones do don't know which one you have but I would check the shims (inside the diffs) help the diffs last a little longer. I went brushless (2040 motor) with mine after I burnt up the stock motor second run on 2s lipo stripped a diff there went $25. Put a 2430 5800kv in it now and the diffs seem to hold up but I don't use it anymore I have more fun with my Dromidas, Latrax, WLtoys 1/18's.

You got a good deal from that member on the this forum if I had not given up running my mini Ruckus I would have probably jumped on it also. Get a Spektrum STX2 and you should be up and running you can get one from a kit breaker like Jenny's RC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-OUTC...141134&hash=item4d921af7a9:g:Rq0AAOSw5MBcufZv for fairly cheap.
 
You're/you'r (witch ever is grammatically correct) on the right track to cause a ruckus!! Excited to see it finished! I wonder how them HR front parts will work. I was looking at some fir my circuit.
 
You're/you'r (witch ever is grammatically correct)

:ROFLMAO:

Also, "which". A witch is a female who practices magic. ;)

And I'll just ignore that typo "fir".

I'll give you points for trying though. haha



FYI, totally joking through all of this. Don't hate me. :D
 
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Here are some pics of my custom built 1/18 Scale Ruckus, with Fast Eddy sealed bearings throughout, Hot Racing upgrades, QuicRun brushless motor/ESC, 58t steel gear, Traxxas 18t pinion gear (#7041), Losi Slipper pads, and Hitec servo. I have a newer orange body, but I decided to go with the old black body and add a viewport for the voltage alarm/meter in the window. The front bumper is from T-bone Racing (the rear bumper and wheelie bar didn't fit). I'm also using a FlySky FS-GT2 Transmitter and Receiver and Traxxas SCT off-road racing tires (#7073).

HotRacing, etc. parts:
 

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Hot Racing shocks. Stocks leak and pop the caps.
Hot Racing axle carriers. Stocks have a boat load of slop.
Hot Racing caster blocks.
Fast Eddy rubber sealed bearings. Stocks are just metal shielded.
Losi Mini 8ight slipper and assembly. Works better than the stock one does.
As many spare diffs as you can get. Or Losi mini 8ight diffs with Franken axles made out of half a center driveshaft and half of the plastic slider shaft. The stock diffs barely hold up to the stock motor yet alone 2s brushless.

I gave up on my 1/18 Ruckus a long time ago. Kind of hard to justify spending $200+ to make a $100 truck work the way it should have out of the box.
 
If you still have plastic bushings in the axle carriers replace them. The brushed motor didn't last to long for me on lipo but of course I expect my minis to run in grass also (not tall grass). The pinion is plastic and the shaft on the motor has no flat spot for a grub screw the pinion is just pressed on. The original diffs had no shims inside them the newer ones do don't know which one you have but I would check the shims (inside the diffs) help the diffs last a little longer. I went brushless (2040 motor) with mine after I burnt up the stock motor second run on 2s lipo stripped a diff there went $25. Put a 2430 5800kv in it now and the diffs seem to hold up but I don't use it anymore I have more fun with my Dromidas, Latrax, WLtoys 1/18's.

You got a good deal from that member on this forum if I had not given up running my mini Ruckus I would have probably jumped on it also. Get a Spektrum STX2 and you should be up and running you can get one from a kit breaker like Jenny's RC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arrma-OUTC...141134&hash=item4d921af7a9:g:Rq0AAOSw5MBcufZv for fairly cheap.
Interesting, I actually found that it's cheaper to work on the ECX 1/18's than the other brands. Especially when you get a deal as @WithinU got. I have a Dromida, a Redcat 1/18, Losi Desert Buggy. I have all 3 versions of ECX 1/18's & we have a blast.
What do you like better about the other brands? &
What upgrades have you done? Which WLtoys do you have?
 
Interesting, I actually found that it's cheaper to work on the ECX 1/18's than the other brands. Especially when you get a deal as @WithinU got. I have a Dromida, a Redcat 1/18, Losi Desert Buggy. I have all 3 versions of ECX 1/18's & we have a blast.
What do you like better about the other brands? &
What upgrades have you done? Which WLtoys do you have?

Never said one was cheaper to fix or upgrade vs. another just said I have more fun with more my other 1/18's. The Wltoys A959 and A979 is what I have the 390 brushed versions replaced the the plastic outdrives with metal, shocks on the A979 with aluminum (the A959 shocks hold oil left those stock) center driveshaft aluminum both, A959 aluminum front shock tower, metal pinion and spur on both. Dromida I have more than one but I use the MT more than any other aluminum center driveshaft, generic aluminum shocks, Wltoys steel axles, aluminum hexes, aluminum dogbones and HR pinion. Latrax Teton the most expensive thing the HR cvd's. Everything brushless no stock electronics on the mini Ruckus also. The electronics (servo, motor, esc etc.) I mostly always change so whether you consider those parts upgrades I don't know. With the Dromida now being in store only I don't know for parts availability used to get parts pretty easily. The wheels from the Dromidas will fit the Wltoys and vice versa they also can be made to work on my RC18's like the diffs from the Latrax and RC18's can be shared.

On the mini Ruckus broke a driveshaft, stripped two diffs (got one new and another used diff to replace) had to replace a couple shocks, developed a lot of slop in the front end, had to replace the servo, don't really like the battery box design in my mini Ruckus just didn't feel like throwing more money and/or time into it.
 

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Never said one was cheaper to fix or upgrade vs. another just said I have more fun with more my other 1/18's. The Wltoys A959 and A979 is what I have the 390 brushed versions replaced the the plastic outdrives with metal, shocks on the A979 with aluminum (the A959 shocks hold oil left those stock) center driveshaft aluminum both, A959 aluminum front shock tower, metal pinion and spur on both. Dromida I have more than one but I use the MT more than any other aluminum center driveshaft, generic aluminum shocks, Wltoys steel axles, aluminum hexes, aluminum dogbones and HR pinion. Latrax Teton the most expensive thing the HR cvd's. Everything brushless no stock electronics on the mini Ruckus also. The electronics (servo, motor, etc, etc.) I mostly always change so whether you consider those parts upgrades I don't know. With the Dromida now being in store only I don't know for parts availability used to get parts pretty easily. The wheels from the Dromidas will fit the Wltoys and vice versa they also can be made to work on my RC18's like the diffs from the Latrax and RC18's can be shared.

On the mini Ruckus broke a driveshaft, stripped two diffs (got one new and another used diff to replace) had to replace a couple shocks, developed a lot of slop in the front end, had to replace the servo, don't really like the battery box design in my mini Ruckus just didn't feel like throwing more money and/or time into it.
Those look the Thanks for sharing the pics.
My bad, I apologize for the misunderstanding. I'm always looking to learn & hear different opinions. The onlyiim crazy thing that I chthed on the Ruckus is a lipo. I know I have just been lucky because my son & I bash that the most for 2 years & she is still holding strong with original parts. Slop is a problem sometimes but after her cleaning, she is good. T he Dromida is brushless & can't seem to handle the beatings. The Redcat I'm putting back together now with WLTOYS parts. The front end is a headache, so I'm trying something different. I love the size of the Ruckus the most but the smaller wheels on the Torment & Roost make them more fun to race. My Torment has the Latrax esc & traxxas 18t. The Roost is still stock. I bought a ton of extras and have been blessed that nothing is breaking. My 1/10 Ruckus BL 4wd overheated on the same grassy fields I Drive my 1/18.
I will include pics later
 
Those look the Thanks for sharing the pics.
My bad, I apologize for the misunderstanding. I'm always looking to learn & hear different opinions. The onlyiim crazy thing that I chthed on the Ruckus is a lipo. I know I have just been lucky because my son & I bash that the most for 2 years & she is still holding strong with original parts. Slop is a problem sometimes but after her cleaning, she is good. T he Dromida is brushless & can't seem to handle the beatings. The Redcat I'm putting back together now with WLTOYS parts. The front end is a headache, so I'm trying something different. I love the size of the Ruckus the most but the smaller wheels on the Torment & Roost make them more fun to race. My Torment has the Latrax esc & traxxas 18t. The Roost is still stock. I bought a ton of extras and have been blessed that nothing is breaking. My 1/10 Ruckus BL 4wd overheated on the same grassy fields I Drive my 1/18.
I will include pics later

I don't want to derail @WithinU thread. But yeah I can have a discussion about cross compatibility of parts between brands. One thing the 1/18 Ruckus/Roost/Torment doesn't have Hot Racing and stock are the only choices. The Redcat is a Himoto E18 really so parts can be had cheap like on Aliexpress and Ebay searching Himoto E18. The D shaped axles I hate but I guess the Wltoys parts could be adapted. Never lasted long running lipo and brushed they all end up burning up maybe lack of maintenance not wanting to gear down among other things just don't like running brushed. I don't do huge jumps so I might be lucky with my Dromida MT with 2040 4850kv motor it's been pretty tough and will run most anywhere I would want to go (except tall grass of course). If you overheated the stock BL motor on your 1/10 4x4 you might want to look into getting a 3660 BL motor.
 
It was the original Dynamite?. Thanks for the advise, I got a deal on a 4000kv kinexis combo that has been good2me.
Maybe a new thread about using substitute parts would be great. I let the children in my subdivision share the 1/18's, so I'm always collecting bargains & looking for substitute parts.
 
Interesting, I actually found that it's cheaper to work on the ECX 1/18's than the other brands. Especially when you get a deal as @WithinU got. I have a Dromida, a Redcat 1/18, Losi Desert Buggy. I have all 3 versions of ECX 1/18's & we have a blast.
What do you like better about the other brands? &
What upgrades have you done? Which WLtoys do you have?

Really? My Ruckus was so flipping expensive to fix anything, the first month I owned it I spent as much on replacement parts as I paid for the damn thing. It really sucks having to spend $25 a pop on an entire bulkhead for 1 gear stripping constantly in the diffs.....................

I like my LC Racing/Tacon minis(don't get the brushed models trust me), they are a bit on the expensive side right around $200 depending on where you buy it,, but you don't need to upgrade anything in them and replacement parts are cheap af, the most expensive stock non electrical part is $16. I started with the Tacon Valor brushed model(again do not buy these) then converted it into a brushless buggy. Then picked up the Truggy Pro Kit from Warren Rc.
If you don't include what I spend upgrading the brushed MT to a brushless buggy I have only spent about $40 or so on parts for these.
 
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LoL awesome conversation, appropriate for this thread?...… probably not, am I offended, absolutely NOT.
I welcome it, and love reading it, cause regardless there are tips/tricks in there, that may help me in the long run.

This post, may be putting the cart before the horse, but I couldn't help myself. Nothing has been done yet, just appearance for pictures sake.

SNEAK PEAK!!! Yes, I know the tread is backwards. ?


Sneak peak.jpg
 
I've been blessed. My LHS is about 45minutes away & I try to support them when I can but most of my extras come from eBay & great deals. My 1/18's are used by neighborhood children mostly & they just bash them like its not theirs?. My son is 10yoa, I teach him to clean & maintain them. This has kept them going.
I will look into the LC but the only 1/18 that I've been over $50 for is my 1st 1/18 Losi Dessert truck & its still in like new condition. It's just too small, so we don't bother with it.
A perfect example is @WithinU will have his Ruckus upgraded for under $100.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/069-1x-370...or-1-18-RC-Car-Boat-FT007-Plane-/201153654533
Or the Traxxas 7075 18t Titan motor for under $16, get speed & not change the gears. Yes, they are brushed but this is a 1/18 MT. You will get speed & still keep the truck Balanced.
We need videos. YouTube needs new videos-repairs, upgrades, & just fun. I joined the 1/18 wagon hoping I can squeeze a track in my backyard.
 
LoL awesome conversation, appropriate for this thread?...… probably not, am I offended, absolutely NOT.
I welcome it, and love reading it, cause regardless there are tips/tricks in there, that may help me in the long run.

This post, may be putting the cart before the horse, but I couldn't help myself. Nothing has been done yet, just appearance for pictures sake.

SNEAK PEAK!!! Yes, I know the tread is backwards. ?


View attachment 5023
Love the tires?, it works better with the body than the originals
 
Thanks for the compliments @BkRc4! I think it will turn out just fine.
The new wheels and tires are way better than the stock ones, the stock ones looks like they used a tube of super glue on each wheel, inside and out. And they are hard as heck, way harder than the stock Torment tires.
The new tires are fairly soft, which may mean they will burn up quick.
 
Ok, so doing some reading on the 1/18 ruckus.
I got this 4wd version off a ebay auction, was told it ran fine, and I have yet to get to that point to verify it.
One thing is I did not get a transmitter with the car, I assumed I could bind my sons transmitter to it, to use.
Since this thing has the ESC and Receiver as one? unit? I see no bind ports anywhere.
Looking at the manual for the car, it states to turn the transmitter wheel all the way right before turning the transmitter on?
What if the transmitter I have has a bind button? Does that not work? Do I need to get a different transmitter.
I am pretty sure my sons transmitter is the stock one that comes with the 1/10 torment, I assume it is the STX2 version? which appears to be the same thing this car "would" have come with new.

Another thing is I noticed looking at the parts list, the list says bushings/bearing set. Does the 1/18 ruckus have a full set of bearings?
Or is that a general format for printing, in case they ever produce one with either or.

5024
 
I can't tell what you have in your Ruckus a model number (for the 2 in 1) would be nice. The old ones were different the new ones work with the STX2. You have a brand new 2 in 1 esc/rx in the package to try that should work with the STX2.

Need to know model numbers of the esc and the transmitter you have now to see if anything will work together.

Bushings in the hub carriers as mentioned earlier I would replace those with rubber shielded bearings.

Those Talon wheels will probably overheat your stock motor running lipo and steering end points will have to be set because full lock (left/right) I believe will rub on the a-arms.
 
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