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Yup I totally get that. I was going to ask the OP why they just don't go and buy a whole new radio/receiver combo, but I didn't lol. Really, when it comes to radios... better off just buying a receivers branded for the radio. But yes, I know what you mean about the frequency hopping patterns to...

Nah they come with steel or aluminum hexes.. they work nicely actually.

I run these on my Ruckus and I'm completely happy with them Proline Trenchers for Stampede/Rustler

Well for me they weren't a waste of time. But, especially in the transmission, I'm a big fan of metal parts. I know some that have run the plastic gears and have been fine, or they just replace them when they need to. But for me, I wanted to install something I wouldn't have to really think...

While some are doing OK with the stock gears in the transmission, I would say move up to the metal gear set when you can. I don't own a Boost, but I own a Ruckus. The metal transmission gear set was one of the first things I purchased (I think I bought them the day after as I was anxious to...

I need to move to the RPM arms myself. I had thought about going with the Hot Racing aluminum arms (came to find out they make a ton of aluminum parts for the Ruckus), but.... I'd rather replace a piece of heavy duty plastic rather than an expensive arm every time it breaks.

FHSS is what ECX uses? If that's the case... a Futaba 3PV should work. Or any FHSS transmitter.

You'll be fine with any C rating. The ESC will grab what it needs. I used to think you could have too much C rating and burn out your ESC. @i_r_beej made a great post about C rating and your ESC. Very informative! Bottom line, any C rating will do, but the higher C rating batteries will cost...

Hmmm.. take the body off, pop it up on a car stand (or stack of books), connected the battery and slowly give it some throttle. Check and see whats moving and whats not. Sounds like something responsible for turning the front wheels isn't working. Make sure everything is connected and go from...

I'm still rockin' the stock pinion. I think its a 17... I'll need to check it as I haven't opened up that gear case since I upgraded to brushless 4 years ago lol.

Yup. Might have to peek at the instructions but can't be too difficult to figure out. Might also want to check the manual to see if the cut off is enabled by default.

Nice man!! Glad I was able to throw you some advice that helped you out. Recalibrating the ESC is a thing to do, and usually the first thing I try when my remote isn't acting right, or certain functions have stopped working. My son once turned my steering trim all the way to the right and I...

Anytime!

Depends on the version. I think the brushless version works OK with a 3s. The brushed version, not so much.

Looks sharp man! I saw one of those up close and personal yesterday. I was picking up parts for my Wraith and they had a doomsday out that I could look at. Nice truck and great build quality. I'll just have to see when I want to pick one up next year.

Yes, 3s will be OK with it. Just make sure you check your temps and don't exceed 170 degrees or so. According to its product page, it'll take a 2s - 3s lipo. I have the V1 version of that ESC and run a 2s on it. I think with the V2, the fan actually works lol

Same boat for me lol. I always wanted an RC growing up. I did have a kit in high school but, I couldn't figure out how to build it and ... well it just wasn't the time lol. I'm running an older Dynamite Tazer brushless combo. It was a budget combo back when I got it 4 years ago, and I know it...

Mine also runs on a Lipo and I'm also running a brushless setup. Since Lipo's discharge a lot nicer, that might be causing it. Yeah, I know what you mean by beyond terrible lol... my youngest daughter will say my truck is doing the jiggle dance lmao. I told her "no, its the truffle shuffle.."...

If you didn't upgrade the pinion and you weren't having these issues before, the problem could be with the ESC/Motor. Are you you still running the stock motor and ESC? And I know what you mean man when it comes to looking at the gears. I'll see if I can dig up a guide on getting the mesh...

Did you try recalibrating the radio and ESC? That might get reverse to work again. that's happened to me before re-calibrating did the trick. If that doesn't work, then the problem could be with the ESC/motor =( Mine gets pretty hot on the brushless setup, but it doesn't go over 130 degrees...