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B4.2. B6.1 Try these arms.

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Depends on brand of your ESC. It depends what you have for options in your drop down/selection when setting up this feature. Here is a chart I use and you can use for reference. My previous comment above is in reference for SkyRC electronics. I use SkyRC in my budget builds. They use overall...

Auto cutoff usually works on the ESC. I would not trust AUTO on cheaper brand electronics. Actually, I default away from AUTO setup. If a 2S battery in my setup is needed, and that is what I built for. It's so easy to use the ESC programmer to change when you change battery cell sizes. Set your...

Just look at that a$$!

Well, here is my update. I have not did the AMP yet or anything down the line of B6.1. I did work with my existing Boost mod B4.2 conversion. I brought it off the shelf and going to put it on the carpet track tomorrow. I need to make a new body for it. Now that I am better at painting, ha.

Alrighty!!! Grab yourself an Mugen Seiki MBX7/8 buggy body. You will need to cut the back off slightly. Of course small amount of extra cutting, but perfect fit. It was like it was meant to be. I am running the Jconcepts brand Mugen MBX7 eco buggy body. I will get pictures uploaded soon.

No, 4wd is all by itself. 2wd is 2wd. Hot Racing is really the only company that makes ECX specific brand. Pay the money for metal shafts. I put the dog bone style on my Torment, they are the lightest and work great.

Just know, the cheap, no name batteries are meeeeeeeeeeiiiii. I recently purchased an Zeee, it will be my last. It can not take my 1/8th scale hard running. So much demand. I will second the SMC brand. Overall, you need to figure what your using your battery for. How much power your...

Thank you. He had an great write up on this build. Very detailed. I actually going to kinda do the same thing, but different. What I mean, I am going to use the Extreme kit, and take it a little further. I just need to get back home. I have been away from home, out of state for a bit. I am...

Yes you did. It's an great build. I will not be doing so. I like to have aesthetics work my track vehicles. If it's an basher, I don't care what it looks like. So, I will not be doing that LCG. The point is to accomplish the chassis lower, which you accomplished yes. I do not want to add more...

Good electronics on RC Juice, for a really nice discounted price. Awesome to work with.

Let's start from square one. What radio do you have? If Spektrum DX2E, you can center all trims (steering, front and brake). Look it up on you tube. Then turn radio on, see if horn is more centered.....if not, you will have to adjust the center turn buckle attached to servo horn to fine tune...

Before attaching servo horn, make sure servo is centered. Accomplish this by turning radio on, then car. Attach servo while on. Note: make sure trims are zeroed out. You might have to adjust turnbuckles, if you have adjustable. Otherwise adjust the little link that attaches to your servo...

I am currently going to put an overall rap to this build. Then possibly get to the next version of my Torment. Team Associated is basically the most compatible brand that crosses over to ECX that I have found. Link to my current build...

Zippy 2S 1300mah 20C, soft pack, XT60 connectors. *I use this in my Temper Gen2 crawler

Sounds to me your possibly to tight with something. Unhook servo horn from steering linkage. Does it move with ease? If no, theres an too tight screw somewhere. If yes, then your good.

For wheel hexes, try these out. I am currently running them now. Team KNK #KNK12X8BRA brass wheel hex

You should run some different tires.

Just get the normal straight horn. What determines which horn, is your splines on your servo. 23T, 24T, or 25T. There is nothing wrong with the plastic, they just break or splines strip out. Just keep it how RPM had it, it will do just fine. Do not over tighten any of the screws during...