2 Part Question:Wheel hexes have already gone thru wheel forum

[tlo1360]

I am interested in whether it is better to run just a 12 mm aluminum hex or switch it to a 17 mm aluminum hex? Either way too much power and you strip plastic wheel rim in where the hex sits no matter the size. Any help on this would be great all I have found in the forums is mostly what type of hex alum. or plas. seperate from what size. No one asks is it better to strip out a smaller hole or a larger hole due to upgrade costs. It will always cost more if you have to upgrade to the bigger hex in the beginning. So I am very curious to see how this is answered Thanks to all in advance on their knowledge of this matter.
This is my current rear drive assembly ( without the tire or wheel bearing hub ass. on it) It is the discontinued HR drive axles for the 2 WD Ruckus with the 12 mm alum. hex upgrade I will be putting the rpm wheel hub ass. back on it with the bigger 5x11x4 bearing in it so I will not need to keep these ones I am aslo upgrading the fronts as well. Primary use is a off road basher run at skate parks and 4 wheeler locations. So I am not looking for a lot of wheelies out of this as so much as just raw drive power going out to the wheels. I currently run a 20 T burnt brushed motor going to a 3300 Kv brushless set up with a 22t or 24t pinion on an 81t or 87t spur with stock 2.2 tire sizes. Have not looked into any tires yet, as I have yet to shred the speedtreads that came on the truck.

As for the next part of my question is kind of on the beginners side of upgrading parts. I have purchased and installed the HR steering saver in alum. for weight in the front to balance the truck in jumps as well as eliminate some ply in the steering. my question is this; Can I adjust the spring mechanism for further handling response? Sorry I couldn't get a closer side view.So from the top view on the large chrome adjuster if I tighten and loosen that will I get different handling response? I currently cannot test the truck as it sits in full breakdown mode waiting for my new year parts list to slowly show in the mail. I will also be upgrading the linkage in front and rear to tighten up and adding some a arms shocks in the mix as well so not sure on just this one part.

 

[cutlass1984]

Hello I’m new here I have a 1/10 ruckus 2wd, upgraded parts, I have the aluminum hexes with stock wheels and they strip out the rim, do they make any wheels that are made out of a aluminum or metal for a better fit or do I have to do that conversion from 12 to 17, thanks

 

[Steve g]

Hello I’m new here I have a 1/10 ruckus 2wd, upgraded parts, I have the aluminum hexes with stock wheels and they strip out the rim, do they make any wheels that are made out of a aluminum or metal for a better fit or do I have to do that conversion from 12 to 17, thanks

Going to 17mm is preferred over aluminum rims, as the extra weight of the rims adds more stress on everything. Keep a close eye on the wheel nut while running it, if it loosens up a little it will strip the hex. I use green locktight (easier to remove then the blue) on the wheel nut to prevent it from lossening, so try that too.

 

[cutlass1984]

Going to 17mm is preferred over aluminum rims, as the extra weight of the rims adds more stress on everything. Keep a close eye on the wheel nut while running it, if it loosens up a little it will strip the hex. I use green locktight (easier to remove then the blue) on the wheel nut to prevent it from lossening, so try that too.

thanks for the reply, I seen some rims that had like 4-6 bolts that hold the rim on to the adapter, or is it just a bigger nut? What would u Rec for the same size tire setup that comes on the 1/10 ruckus truck, thanks

 

[Steve g]

You must be talking about the new proline rims that have a replaceable hex. Those are nice, and the concept is commonly used in crawlers, more so you can adjust the wheel offset. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get them, but I prefer the 2.8 wheels by proline. Trenchers are a good choice if you also run on pavement, and the badland mx28s offer the best off road traction. There are MT sized 2.8s, (most common), and there are ST size. I would recommend the ST size, they are closer to stock size. There are other good brands like duratrax and louise rc. Which ever brand you choose, get the ones designed for the rear of the slash 4x4, it will be the proper offset for all 4 tires on the rukus.

 

[cutlass1984]

You must be talking about the new proline rims that have a replaceable hex. Those are nice, and the concept is commonly used in crawlers, more so you can adjust the wheel offset. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get them, but I prefer the 2.8 wheels by proline. Trenchers are a good choice if you also run on pavement, and the badland mx28s offer the best off road traction. There are MT sized 2.8s, (most common), and there are ST size. I would recommend the ST size, they are closer to stock size. There are other good brands like duratrax and louise rc. Which ever brand you choose, get the ones designed for the rear of the slash 4x4, it will be the proper offset for all 4 tires on the rukus.

You must be talking about the new proline rims that have a replaceable hex. Those are nice, and the concept is commonly used in crawlers, more so you can adjust the wheel offset. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get them, but I prefer the 2.8 wheels by proline. Trenchers are a good choice if you also run on pavement, and the badland mx28s offer the best off road traction. There are MT sized 2.8s, (most common), and there are ST size. I would recommend the ST size, they are closer to stock size. There are other good brands like duratrax and louise rc. Which ever brand you choose, get the ones designed for the rear of the slash 4x4, it will be the proper offset for all 4 tires on the rukus.

Ok thanks for replying, I just wanted find something that the stripping of the hexes won’t happen again but I guess it may happen to all wheels, I’m running a brushless motor with a 2s lipo and 3s lipo at times, i have upgraded axles and gear set, so maybe it’s my fault for running A stronger battery haha, I just wanted it to do wheelies.

 

[Steve g]

I'm also running brushless and 2s/3s. Haven't stripped a hex or wheel yet. Are you using aluminum hexes? And always check your wheel nuts, they can loosen up and cause the wheels to strip. I use lock tight ( the green one, or even blue, but not red) on my wheel nuts to prevent this. If you do use lock tight make sure the wheel nut and threads on the axle are clean, and let it set for a day before using it. You can go with 17mm hexes and wheels, I planned on doing that too when i upgraded my trucks to brushless, but since i haven't had any issues I never swapped over.

 

[cutlass1984]

I'm also running brushless and 2s/3s. Haven't stripped a hex or wheel yet. Are you using aluminum hexes? And always check your wheel nuts, they can loosen up and cause the wheels to strip. I use lock tight ( the green one, or even blue, but not red) on my wheel nuts to prevent this. If you do use lock tight make sure the wheel nut and threads on the axle are clean, and let it set for a day before using it. You can go with 17mm hexes and wheels, I planned on doing that too when i upgraded my trucks to brushless, but since i haven't had any issues I never swapped over.

Yea before I found the second time this happened I barley used it like 2-3 times, I had it serviced at a local hobby shop and that’s what they found a stripped hex, so they put the aluminum ones on and I believe they put lock tight or locking nuts, I have to double check, when I removed the nut on the wheel that felt loose it felt tight coming off I’ll double check in a little.

 

[REDdawn6]

I use 12mm by 7 or 8mm aluminum hexs