2s or 3s LiPo upgrade

mikevi

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23
Location
Nor Cal
Hey guys, first post. Looking to buy my first AMP coming up and I've studied the forums pretty well, learning what I should and shouldn't do. One thing I'm going to do is upgrade the battery immediately. I read somewhere that if you upgrade to a 2s lipo, you should upgrade other parts as well. Is this true?

And to follow, I saw a youtube of a guy running a 2s and 3s and the 3s is noticable stronger. Is there consequences to the 3s?
 
I just opened the boxes on a pair of Amp MT kits for my kids and myself to build. I doubt they'll handle 3s out of the box and would require an upgraded or better ESC. To do that you'd need a new receiver and transmitter.

I'm sure someone knows better and will chime in. I haven't opened the package with the manual but will tomorrow.
 
Follow up, what C rating do you recommend for a stock AMP?

And which battery connector does the AMP come with?
 
AMP comes with EC3. I don't know if C rating matters as ESC can only draw so much. The batteries C rating is only the potential discharge rate from my understanding...

Higher C will equal shorter run times. It all depends in what you want. More punch and speed or longer run times.

Also, think about the future... most eventually go the route of higher C so buy once, cry once and all that jazz.

My kids cars use 20C LiPos. They aren't paying for replacement parts. Mine use 30C and 35C. But I use Venom which have a higher potential C that what they are sold as.
 
For a stock amp, C rating doesn't matter much. Even a lowly 4000mAh 25C lipo can deliver more current than your ESC and motor can swallow.

I fried my stock ESC on 2s lipo in grass...

I replaced the ESC for an ebay one which is rated for 3s, but the motor runs really hot (170-180F) so I'm sure it won't survive 3s, like @Brake Weight and @slowmethinks said.
 
OK awesome. Hard time finding any that come with the EC3 by default besides Venom. Any recommendations or do I have to solder?

If anything, I hope this is a nice one stop battery thread for newbies like me. Hope I can contribute some content once I get my setup.
 
Horizon's "Reaction" line has lipos with EC3 connectors.

I actually like EC3 connectors, I contemplated which ones to put on all of my RCs and it was between deans and EC3, but cheap deans knockoffs are apparently not very good (weak springs), whereas cheap EC3s hold fine.
 
I'd slow down a touch...
Your going to want to upgrade your drivetrain before adding that much power.. metal tranny gears and driveshafts mainly.. you will be eating those gears and snapping the stock driveshafts like no tomorrow..
Just from my own experiences.
You will also need a new esc and
transmitter as the stock are 2 in 1.. and can't handle much power.
 
Yeah, just slow down on the power hunger... you need to weight up the costs. Dont forget with any lipo battery needs a lipo charger and a safe lipo charge bag, and it doesn't hurt to grab a lva. you're going to get a huge power increase jumping to 2s. Going to 3s is going to be overkill... literally. Youll burn up and break parts from too much strain and will have to spend big buying replacment and better parts.
Is this your first hobby class RC? Id humbly advise to learn the basics and step your upgrades little by little. you're going to eventually want bumpers, tyres with foam inserts, sealed bearings, or maybe even a new body to personalise before you jump into the big stuff. Going brushless with a 3s lipo will require a lot of money when you have to consider all the other parts youll have to upgrade just for the truck to survive its first run.
 
OK, I just read some threads and most people say the most worthwhile upgrade and most have said just buy a 2s lipo with the kit because it makes such a difference. This is the info I needed whether I was just going to break this thing, inside out. I'll just buy the car and build it and slowly start upgrading to metal/aluminum.
 
OK, I just read some threads and most people say the most worthwhile upgrade and most have said just buy a 2s LiPo with the kit because it makes such a difference. This is the info I needed whether I was just going to break this thing, inside out. I'll just buy the car and build it and slowly start upgrading to metal/aluminum.
Metal transmission, Hot Racing CVDs (SECT228), and then a brushless combo and new Tx/Rx. Expect to spend $150 or more...
 
Great, lots of help guys. Thanks! Excited for my BTD kit to arrive now.

Post up a build thread! It's a great way to document your truck and it's future mods. Also, if you need any help it's nice to have all your stuff in one location.
 

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