95PGTTech 1/10 2WD ECX Ruckus build

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
595
Location
rural NJ
ecx ruckus 2wd brushed, my car friend bought for me a few years ago when I broke my leg real bad and was looking at 6+ months off my feet. used it to let the dogs chase around never really got into it. was emptying the attic a few weeks ago and had the bright idea to re-gift it to my son (3rd birthday) who is heavily into everything cars and battery powered. he has a s1000rr (because dad has one) that we've modified with a second motor and dewalt 20v power and a hot wheels porsche that's modded to the moon. had my dad custom paint/decals him a paw patrol body. he really doesn't understand being in control of the car but enjoys chasing it around and watching the dogs chase it around, so whatever. the stock battery was dead so we put a 2s 5200 50c lipo in it.

not much plans we rip around my mostly flat big property, would like to get it to turn a little better it turns slow and has the radius of a boat unless I get completely off the throttle. learned a lot on here with searching, probably going to throw some hot racing parts at it.
 
Welcome to the forums @95PGTTech !

Does your radio have a steering rate adjustment on it?
Dont confuse this with a steering trim adjustment.

What radio are you using? Stock?

stock radio
trim adjusted so that it drives straight when no steering input
steering rate at max

friend in RC echo'd the comment I've seen on here of add 75-100g to front, replace servo with more powerful and quicker rate one.
 
I could have sworn I replied to this. Ended up doing a new steering servo after talking to my friend who originally bought me this years ago to keep me and the dogs busy when I shattered my leg and was down for awhile. He has years more experience with this stuff. He suggested a servo and weight on the front. I've also seen that suggestion elsewhere.

understeer is clearly a part of the problem - the more throttle, the wider the turning radius. steering rate and steering strength I think is the major issue...the wheels turn miserably slow with the vehicle at speed. we selected:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VBRJSKP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Install was pretty straight forward other than a little clearancing of the lower belly pan to clear the larger aluminum servo arm. This sacrifice was well worth the upgrade in strength. Annoyingly, since it's an odd tooth count it can't be clocked at exactly 12 oclock (either just left or just right). I accounted for this by setting the controller steering trim back to zero and then adjusting the link between the servo arm and the servo saver (short threaded rod, female ball end both sides) so that the wheels were straight at rest. I could have corrected it entirely with just steering trim but I prefer as little trim adjustments as possible if there is a mechanical adjustment.

It absolutely was the mod this thing needed - it still may need weight on the front end, but the thing will turn so hard now it will damn near flip over (with the steering rate turned down). My opinion is it needed the 25kg force more than the increased steering speed but it needed the steering speed too. I do have the wiggle-while reverse, the HR steering servo saver kit arrived at the same time but we haven't installed yet. I spent some time finishing his indoor workshop - he has a dedicated area in my shop outside and his own toolbox but winters get cold here. Mom only tolerates so much working on the kitchen table.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2127.jpg
    IMG_2127.jpg
    60.4 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_2130.jpg
    IMG_2130.jpg
    310.7 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_2144.jpg
    IMG_2144.jpg
    172.3 KB · Views: 17
Hi @95PGTTech,
Sounds like you have it handled.
Another thing you could try, if the tires on your Rukus are still stock, if they are anything like the stocks tires on my Torments, they are harder than a brick. You could try a alternate set of tires. Mind you they will wear out faster due to being softer, if you do in fact get softer compounds. I have found extremely cheap wheels, foams, and tire combos on the Ebayz cheap, yeah I know they are probably Chinisiem stuff, but they have worked great. And yes if your doing speed runs on concrete they will wear out faster.

Here's one of the links for the wheels and tires.
I see they are $41 now, I did not pay that for them, I think I gave $28? or so.
I traction roll more than I care to admit, mainly because of my driving.....LOL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324474291541
 
Hi @95PGTTech,
Sounds like you have it handled.
Another thing you could try, if the tires on your Rukus are still stock, if they are anything like the stocks tires on my Torments, they are harder than a brick. You could try a alternate set of tires. Mind you they will wear out faster due to being softer, if you do in fact get softer compounds. I have found extremely cheap wheels, foams, and tire combos on the Ebayz cheap, yeah I know they are probably Chinisiem stuff, but they have worked great. And yes if your doing speed runs on concrete they will wear out faster.

Here's one of the links for the wheels and tires.
I see they are $41 now, I did not pay that for them, I think I gave $28? or so.
I traction roll more than I care to admit, mainly because of my driving.....LOL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324474291541

Thanks. Being my first RC, I have no idea if they are hard or soft as I have nothing to compare them to. They feel extremely soft to me, but I'm also used to cars and motorycles with 30ish psi in them. 90% grass yard play, 10% gravel driveway. On grass now it turns so hard and so fast that it will get up on two wheels and damn near flip over before I catch it. I'll have to adjust the steering speed setting on the controller and learn to drive better.

I don't know why, but I had a ARRMA 15T motor sitting new in a bag so I tossed it in. I also had a 880 hobbywing brushed dual motor esc sitting around so I threw that in (from a power wheels project). I'm swapping to my other radio and receiver that I like better (from same power wheels project). I may play with the pinion and ring gear, I'm trying to find literally another mph or two more in a straight line. My one dog can *just* catch it when she turns on the afterburners. I suppose going to a little taller tire or a little lighter wheel would help that too - I don't care about chinesium on something with this pricetag, it's not my s1000rr or my race bike this is a toy we crash into trees LOL
 
Using the dual motor ESC seems to work fine. Threw a 12T 550 motor in since it was cheap to get that speed I was talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BF6ZGG1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

read A LOT of reviews. What it basically boils down to is if this one goes, go brushless, ESC, 3s. The name brands like the Titan and the ARRMA didn't have any higher success rates than this one did for half the price. Installed the ESC fan that comes with it and soldered in a 550 heat sink and fan kit in parallel. I haven't run it for more than maybe 2 minutes I was going easy on the new motor so I can't say if it makes any appreciable difference or not. Runs on the same day with the fan unplugged might be a cool experiment pun intended.

Finally installed the HR bellcrank kit. The reverse wobble is gone. Very high quality product, precise machining. Steering is noticeably tighter, to the point I had to turn the rate down because I was flipping it. Played with the ride and body heights too. I took a pic of the clearancing I had to do to one of the lower belly pans to accomodate the larger aluminum servo horn. Well worth the sacrifice IMO. In general organized and cleaned up some wires. Swapped over to my DumboRC x6 transmitter and gyro receiver today, wanted more aux channels and Iike my controls and adjustments better. We added a simple light kit, he's 3 and loves that crap. Trying to figure out if I can get my transmitter to be able to turn them on/off. Been cold and raining here not really fun days to whip it around the yard.

One thing I'm looking at now is hot racing's what I call steering knuckles on a car. There is so much play 6/12 in all 4 wheels and it seems like on all of them where the upper control arm mounts to the knuckle. The wheel nut is tight, there is no play at the lower control arm. In the front Hot Racing seems to be calling this part a caster block, hub in the rear. Just taking a quick peek at the car it seems like doing the front steering blocks at the same time makes sense instead of having to go back and do them. From what I can tell it's not the upper control arms (turnbuckles in hot racing terminology) that have the play, but if it turns out they do after the fact they seem like a job easy enough to do on their own.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2171.jpg
    IMG_2171.jpg
    86.7 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_2172.jpg
    IMG_2172.jpg
    161.6 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_2174.jpg
    IMG_2174.jpg
    150.1 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_2175.jpg
    IMG_2175.jpg
    215.4 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_2176.jpg
    IMG_2176.jpg
    103.5 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2177.jpg
    IMG_2177.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2178.jpg
    IMG_2178.jpg
    201.5 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_2179.jpg
    IMG_2179.jpg
    104.8 KB · Views: 15
The lights look pretty cool, nice job. The steering knuckles are on my to do list, mine are sloppy too.

the rear hubs came today, waiting on the rest. I didn't notice in the pics or think to look they do not come with bearings so I ordered a fast eddy kit. I'm trying to figure out what size shim assortment I need to get, I think I was told the axles are 4mm diameter. I want to shim behind the axle pin to try and take some of the slop out.

went to 19/87 gearing because with the new motor I wasn't getting the gear mesh I wanted the can was contacting the transmission. shot it with my IR gun and it was barely getting warm to the touch after a full run so bought another kit and went to 23/87. Haven't run it since (weather). We went out in the snow a bit (half inch or so) and it was mega fun but totally useless traction wise drift machine on anything > 1/4 throttle. Had our first big wreck hit the passenger side front tire on a 4x4 post. Luckily it just popped the tie rod off the steering knuckle so we just popped it right on.

Been exploring taller/wider tires, there really isn't anything out there bigger than what's factory on this, but there are much better compounds and tread styles. Currently thinking about this proline setup

https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...tires-mounted-12mm-blk-raid-2/PRO1012510.html

Losi 40wt shock oil arrived for us to rebuild the shocks. We have been playing with spring height spacers a lot and how it affects handling and traction. Probably going to move the shocks up to their highest mount (lowest ride height). Fun little ride for me and the boy to throw around the yard for ~10 mins that a battery lasts.
 
Another pic dump because bored. Rear hubs are here. Front steering arms are here. Shocks are rebuilt with 40wt oil. They don't bottom out so easily anymore. I tried to balance them side to side by adding a drop or two until they both felt the same on compression. Definetely stiffer than before and more travel. Moved the mounting points to farthest outboard and up. Shocks are 90/105 eye to eye F/R but interestingly the lower control arms at full droop could go another 7-8mm. Something to consider when I get shocks I can use all the travel I can get for how we use this RC.

Waiting on FastEddy bearing kit, front caster blocks, axle shims, hub hexes, upper control arms and tie rods. Determined that a lot of the play was those UCAs.
 

Attachments

  • image_50460673.JPG
    image_50460673.JPG
    210.9 KB · Views: 10
  • image_50734849.JPG
    image_50734849.JPG
    201.9 KB · Views: 8
  • image_50725377.JPG
    image_50725377.JPG
    257 KB · Views: 11
  • image_67196673.JPG
    image_67196673.JPG
    128.1 KB · Views: 13
  • image_67226881.JPG
    image_67226881.JPG
    182.6 KB · Views: 14
  • image_67145985.JPG
    image_67145985.JPG
    116.7 KB · Views: 11
  • image_50456833.JPG
    image_50456833.JPG
    275.6 KB · Views: 11
  • image_67221249.JPG
    image_67221249.JPG
    186.2 KB · Views: 11
  • image_67200769.JPG
    image_67200769.JPG
    176.6 KB · Views: 12
  • image_50754817.JPG
    image_50754817.JPG
    294.6 KB · Views: 10
Another pic dump because bored. Rear hubs are here. Front steering arms are here. Shocks are rebuilt with 40wt oil. They don't bottom out so easily anymore. I tried to balance them side to side by adding a drop or two until they both felt the same on compression. Definetely stiffer than before and more travel. Moved the mounting points to farthest outboard and up. Shocks are 90/105 eye to eye F/R but interestingly the lower control arms at full droop could go another 7-8mm. Something to consider when I get shocks I can use all the travel I can get for how we use this RC.

Waiting on FastEddy bearing kit, front caster blocks, axle shims, hub hexes, upper control arms and tie rods. Determined that a lot of the play was those UCAs.
Just acquired my circuit 2wd. Your posts are gonna be a nice resource for tooling on my rig. Nice work. Thanks
 
Just acquired my circuit 2wd. Your posts are gonna be a nice resource for tooling on my rig. Nice work. Thanks

glad I could help.

Arms arrived from the other company I purchase from - RCAWD on Amazon. They are another company like Hot Racing that has pretty blatantly outsourced machining (or more likely just copied some other company's) parts to China. More or less they work, just expect stuff to arrive with no instructions and them to be of absolutely no help. The parts are good for what you pay, but like all China machine shop tolerances there is some slop in the heim joints that I wouldn't tolerate on a more expensive part. Regardless, we are talking 1-2/1000th of 6/12 runout at the wheel now versus a good 1/4"+ before all these parts.

The front steering arms convert the OEM ball studs to bolts, but they don't send you the right ones for the inner attachment point (to the HR bellcrank or stock one). After a lot of fooling around with my tap and die kit, they are 4-40 (SAE). Lowes had some 1/2" long screws that worked fine. Just annoying to chase down, and odd ECX/HR decided to use ONE SAE thread on an otherwise M3/M4/M5 exclusive product.

I'm having a difficult time figuring out a torque spec/loctite on the shoulder bolts from the caster arms to the front knuckle/hub. I make them "snug" with the same tool I've done all the other M3 bolts with orange loctite and when I come back and the loctite has dried, they are locked (steering won't turn). I need to figure out a way to make sure the loctite gets just on the threads and not on the shoulder, maybe I'll go back with some antiseize on the shoulder part.

I set all the arms to stock length for now. the HR hubs negated the need to put spacers behind the axle pin to take the slop out, but the rears do not. Waiting on those 1mm shims. The second pic is the rear upper control arm. If installed in stock location (to front of hub) - shock side, it rubs on both the hub and on the plastic chassis because the red heim ends are wider diameter than the stock arms. For now, I flipped it to mount to the opposite side (rear) of the hub, and it has clearance on both ends. I ran the control arms through their articulation and it has clearance to the shock and the axle. I'm going to run it and see if it makes any difference, I doubt it other than a little negative camber if I leave it at the stock arm's length. My only other option would be M3 washers between the heim end and the chassis and between the heim end and the hub which I would prefer not to do. I'm running the stock arms on the OEM location inner for now (forward mount of the two).

Shims, shoulder bolts, align it, and we will see. A lot of changes, it's still not going to be a grip machine on the stock rock hard tires but I'm looking to have gotten all the play out of the suspension so I get more consistent performance. Zero point in setting 1 degree of negative front camber if there is so much play in the hub that I can rock it from +2 to -5...imagine what that play is doing to the suspension settings under load.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2248.jpg
    IMG_2248.jpg
    114.1 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2227.jpg
    IMG_2227.jpg
    257.1 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_2251.jpg
    IMG_2251.jpg
    201.7 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_2250.jpg
    IMG_2250.jpg
    220.5 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_2247.jpg
    IMG_2247.jpg
    228.6 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG_2249.jpg
    IMG_2249.jpg
    131.2 KB · Views: 11
  • IMG_2226.jpg
    IMG_2226.jpg
    93.4 KB · Views: 12
glad I could help.

Arms arrived from the other company I purchase from - RCAWD on Amazon. They are another company like Hot Racing that has pretty blatantly outsourced machining (or more likely just copied some other company's) parts to China. More or less they work, just expect stuff to arrive with no instructions and them to be of absolutely no help. The parts are good for what you pay, but like all China machine shop tolerances there is some slop in the heim joints that I wouldn't tolerate on a more expensive part. Regardless, we are talking 1-2/1000th of 6/12 runout at the wheel now versus a good 1/4"+ before all these parts.

The front steering arms convert the OEM ball studs to bolts, but they don't send you the right ones for the inner attachment point (to the HR bellcrank or stock one). After a lot of fooling around with my tap and die kit, they are 4-40 (SAE). Lowes had some 1/2" long screws that worked fine. Just annoying to chase down, and odd ECX/HR decided to use ONE SAE thread on an otherwise M3/M4/M5 exclusive product.

I'm having a difficult time figuring out a torque spec/loctite on the shoulder bolts from the caster arms to the front knuckle/hub. I make them "snug" with the same tool I've done all the other M3 bolts with orange loctite and when I come back and the loctite has dried, they are locked (steering won't turn). I need to figure out a way to make sure the loctite gets just on the threads and not on the shoulder, maybe I'll go back with some antiseize on the shoulder part.

I set all the arms to stock length for now. the HR hubs negated the need to put spacers behind the axle pin to take the slop out, but the rears do not. Waiting on those 1mm shims. The second pic is the rear upper control arm. If installed in stock location (to front of hub) - shock side, it rubs on both the hub and on the plastic chassis because the red heim ends are wider diameter than the stock arms. For now, I flipped it to mount to the opposite side (rear) of the hub, and it has clearance on both ends. I ran the control arms through their articulation and it has clearance to the shock and the axle. I'm going to run it and see if it makes any difference, I doubt it other than a little negative camber if I leave it at the stock arm's length. My only other option would be M3 washers between the heim end and the chassis and between the heim end and the hub which I would prefer not to do. I'm running the stock arms on the OEM location inner for now (forward mount of the two).

Shims, shoulder bolts, align it, and we will see. A lot of changes, it's still not going to be a grip machine on the stock rock hard tires but I'm looking to have gotten all the play out of the suspension so I get more consistent performance. Zero point in setting 1 degree of negative front camber if there is so much play in the hub that I can rock it from +2 to -5...imagine what that play is doing to the suspension settings under load.
I'm gonna check out rcawd now. Nice work so far on your upgrades and steering/suspension changes. Keep up the content. It is appreciated
 
Lots of pics since last update. Wife had twins and house has needed stuff so we have been doing a lot of driving and not much modifying. All 4 Proline Badlands are on as well as their interchangeable hub offset wheels. Awesome product. Grip is insane. Been trying to figure out a better locking wheel nut/washer setup, it seems to be another source of play. Shims are done.

Touched up the paint to his body that we had abused. Changed up the lighting to work off of the input channel 3 on the radio. Bent the hot racing bellcrank arm as you can see. We had a big hit to the right front wheel with it set pretty tight, but I also think the shoulder bolts were part of the problem (overightened, stressing the steering).
 

Attachments

  • C2E57928-DD3F-4AA5-86F8-FE0422758A84.jpeg
    C2E57928-DD3F-4AA5-86F8-FE0422758A84.jpeg
    139 KB · Views: 8
  • CC2251E5-568B-4A5E-8A3F-8B659AA5DC9C.jpeg
    CC2251E5-568B-4A5E-8A3F-8B659AA5DC9C.jpeg
    165.6 KB · Views: 6
  • EB34E292-5999-4276-9C21-61E6E3C2D699.jpeg
    EB34E292-5999-4276-9C21-61E6E3C2D699.jpeg
    147.4 KB · Views: 6
  • 9C75C868-C775-45B7-B53A-D5B3C26B40A6.jpeg
    9C75C868-C775-45B7-B53A-D5B3C26B40A6.jpeg
    167.1 KB · Views: 7
  • 88041D7F-D10D-4425-B937-F03DDBE150D4.jpeg
    88041D7F-D10D-4425-B937-F03DDBE150D4.jpeg
    231.5 KB · Views: 7
  • FAB2210E-DA6B-4747-9BB7-E18C6217EA0C.jpeg
    FAB2210E-DA6B-4747-9BB7-E18C6217EA0C.jpeg
    130.1 KB · Views: 7
  • 89CCE6A8-81EE-433B-98CA-28ABB6E484F5.jpeg
    89CCE6A8-81EE-433B-98CA-28ABB6E484F5.jpeg
    172.3 KB · Views: 7
  • E5F948DD-4714-49C1-BAC7-3A14DFCE54B0.jpeg
    E5F948DD-4714-49C1-BAC7-3A14DFCE54B0.jpeg
    191.2 KB · Views: 7
  • 0DB5AA16-377A-44AF-9E22-2B8912FF24FE.jpeg
    0DB5AA16-377A-44AF-9E22-2B8912FF24FE.jpeg
    143.3 KB · Views: 6
  • C4B7C267-8C3E-4CCA-B7DB-81CAA76B738F.jpeg
    C4B7C267-8C3E-4CCA-B7DB-81CAA76B738F.jpeg
    141.6 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
Yeah, pretty bright. 4 headlights 4 taillights and a light bar. Hot Racing offered to "warranty" the bellcrank at 50% off. They would not sell replacement parts. They then informed me that no units were in stock to replace them. They are all over amazon and other vendors. I asked for a ballpark ETA and was told none. I asked if I could buy through one of their vendors (the same vendor I had originally purchased through) and just get some kind of future store credit and was told no. So although they offer a warranty, it's essentially useless as they cannot, or more likely will not, honor it. There really isn't another bellcrank option out there I'm fancy on, so I just shut up and ordered another one. Between this and their other lack of technical input help, if I have the choice to order from them or another vendor in the future I won't be going with them.

81T hardened spur gear, new slipper kit
 

Attachments

  • 142ED7B8-E7A5-4618-BD21-26B4322AEFAE.jpeg
    142ED7B8-E7A5-4618-BD21-26B4322AEFAE.jpeg
    158.9 KB · Views: 7
  • CAB42766-997F-4EFB-AA29-A497920B36C2.jpeg
    CAB42766-997F-4EFB-AA29-A497920B36C2.jpeg
    71.8 KB · Views: 5
  • 1D09E275-33C2-4F42-BB86-F518C8E9EEF3.jpeg
    1D09E275-33C2-4F42-BB86-F518C8E9EEF3.jpeg
    154.6 KB · Views: 5
  • B297D5D7-74D8-4BD3-9780-9DF57491FD99.jpeg
    B297D5D7-74D8-4BD3-9780-9DF57491FD99.jpeg
    291.2 KB · Views: 5
  • 20905079-B7A6-4972-B0BE-B7D7D01F96CE.jpeg
    20905079-B7A6-4972-B0BE-B7D7D01F96CE.jpeg
    200.9 KB · Views: 8
  • 9BA518AD-28C1-4A8F-8F34-5A21AA3DCE6F.jpeg
    9BA518AD-28C1-4A8F-8F34-5A21AA3DCE6F.jpeg
    119.2 KB · Views: 8
  • 6F84CC80-6DFA-4FDD-AD44-DE4F2C3758E9.jpeg
    6F84CC80-6DFA-4FDD-AD44-DE4F2C3758E9.jpeg
    200.1 KB · Views: 7
  • B8CDA278-8FD0-454C-AF77-A582CDA52CF5.jpeg
    B8CDA278-8FD0-454C-AF77-A582CDA52CF5.jpeg
    113.2 KB · Views: 5
  • 8A1EC392-55CF-4E5A-A5A8-88B55F2E219E.jpeg
    8A1EC392-55CF-4E5A-A5A8-88B55F2E219E.jpeg
    255.6 KB · Views: 6
  • 60F8142A-A424-4EDF-A764-4141853149E2.jpeg
    60F8142A-A424-4EDF-A764-4141853149E2.jpeg
    276.2 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
watching the temps AND having a fan and heatsink on the 550 motors we have now blown up TWO at 23T pinion, the 12T injora and the 15T aarma. straight up let out the magic smoke on cool days running it across the open yard lost power, slowed down noticed smoking, shut it down and tried to cool it off but the brushes/internal fan/end bearings were long gone. I threw the stock motor in it for now along with the stock ratio hardened pinion (18T). it's finally time to go brushless. 120a hobbywing max 10 sct on 2s for now. I already have their program card and am familiar using it, so that's why I went that way. it can go 2s-4s, but from what I've read on here even 3s just starts grenading things left and right.
 

Attachments

  • B3852DDF-FE2F-4C44-8D61-21A78209D7F7.jpeg
    B3852DDF-FE2F-4C44-8D61-21A78209D7F7.jpeg
    181.5 KB · Views: 5
  • 4890D8CC-AA59-454A-8AD6-F979787C81DC.jpeg
    4890D8CC-AA59-454A-8AD6-F979787C81DC.jpeg
    126.9 KB · Views: 5
  • 5726D556-2A1F-4E2C-ACBA-599E1D9942BC.jpeg
    5726D556-2A1F-4E2C-ACBA-599E1D9942BC.jpeg
    274.5 KB · Views: 5
  • 2B14BA6B-7EB5-4D53-8890-36640ECC146C.jpeg
    2B14BA6B-7EB5-4D53-8890-36640ECC146C.jpeg
    178.6 KB · Views: 5
  • 5A1F87B2-EE0C-4FE1-94F6-96FE434A27FF.jpeg
    5A1F87B2-EE0C-4FE1-94F6-96FE434A27FF.jpeg
    231.3 KB · Views: 5
  • F07A2816-DABD-4814-93FC-6E9038F8DC55.jpeg
    F07A2816-DABD-4814-93FC-6E9038F8DC55.jpeg
    211.2 KB · Views: 5
  • 94A4820F-77EB-428E-9708-697198E08781.jpeg
    94A4820F-77EB-428E-9708-697198E08781.jpeg
    170.2 KB · Views: 5
  • EF4C64F0-582D-4904-A528-AF46CBFE3B7C.jpeg
    EF4C64F0-582D-4904-A528-AF46CBFE3B7C.jpeg
    137.4 KB · Views: 4
  • 81986DC9-8A6B-4203-A579-14FB3278B7E4.jpeg
    81986DC9-8A6B-4203-A579-14FB3278B7E4.jpeg
    130.4 KB · Views: 4
  • 12305CC8-DF51-4777-9872-280A126604F6.jpeg
    12305CC8-DF51-4777-9872-280A126604F6.jpeg
    284.9 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:
I think you will be happy with the max10 SCT 120a system, it is doing very well for me on 3s. My temps are good, I actually could gear up more, but it's fine the way it is.

You also need to stop doing so much stuff to your RC, you are starting to make me feel as if I am neglecting mine......:confused::p(y)
 
I'm beginning to think this thread should get renamed/moved to Ruckus section.

New motor arrived today. Gool RC (Amazon special) 3660 3800kv. I'm going to get the matched Hobbywing motor for the ESC, but I wanted a cheap test mule to start with. This is what I could find that most closely represented the 4000kv offering from Hobbywing for 2 and 3s. It does use a much larger diameter driveshaft, so I need to order new hardened pinions. Any ballparks on where to start? Stock was 18/87 and I had it up to 23/87. I'm probably going to keep the gearing on the longer end, I need the top speed to stay safely out of range of the dogs and I don't want to be making a ton of torque off the hit, that's what tears stuff up in the 1:1 world. Since the outside of this motor case is smooth, I ran the old motor heatsink/fan through the bandsaw to notch it to fit. Seems to have adequate clearance for the rear axle shafts and the lower control arm.

I found a deal to move up from 2s 50c to 2s 100c so I ordered the deans connectors to match them. the hobbywing ESC comes with no connector on it. The old setup was XT90.

Front right wheel bearing sounds arthritic chunky when rotated. Only a couple hours on a set of Fast Eddy. I have a couple extras but I'm looking to try a different brand now, if anyone has any suggestions. This is a lawn/speed basher/jumper so durability is the primary concern not absolute speed. New ESC plate and battery hold down for the new ESC and now I won't need the voltage alarm (I believe the new ESC has it, I'll double check).
 

Attachments

  • 8A8AB69F-8153-408C-B67D-5CF5FBDBC883.jpeg
    8A8AB69F-8153-408C-B67D-5CF5FBDBC883.jpeg
    178.3 KB · Views: 6
  • FBAD90DF-D0B4-4165-9FEE-F74F4AFA3B80.jpeg
    FBAD90DF-D0B4-4165-9FEE-F74F4AFA3B80.jpeg
    226.6 KB · Views: 5
  • 3B588310-1BB5-4507-8405-A241A8E9A4CB.jpeg
    3B588310-1BB5-4507-8405-A241A8E9A4CB.jpeg
    271.2 KB · Views: 5
  • D9770EAB-AD25-4F2E-9B36-C955D5DD6389.jpeg
    D9770EAB-AD25-4F2E-9B36-C955D5DD6389.jpeg
    260.6 KB · Views: 7
  • 29B8D4E0-899C-43A1-8554-22EF17C0146C.jpeg
    29B8D4E0-899C-43A1-8554-22EF17C0146C.jpeg
    141.9 KB · Views: 7
  • 1DC2B90C-6A5D-48E6-AFBF-A45ADF64A73A.jpeg
    1DC2B90C-6A5D-48E6-AFBF-A45ADF64A73A.jpeg
    226.4 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
Posted in a general FB RC group about the play I still have in the new turnbuckles. At the heim joints, it’s not a mounting screws or adjuster locknut loose issue. I’m told it’s just cheap tolerance heim joints plus the nature of bashing and aluminum parts. Considering they have MAYBE 2 hours on them of grass no jumping and one big impact that’s really disappointing. I’m researching swapping them to some Traxxas Slash composite components. I still want the alignment adjustability and the stock ECX all plastic fixed length ones had a bit of play anyway so I don’t think just putting new stock stuff in is the answer

I had a few more rubber sealed bearings left from fast eddy but since I had downtime I got a spare set of Apex metal shielded and some lube. We will see if there is any difference.

Got the 3650 4300kv brushless in because I’m waiting on the 5mm pinion for the 3660 3800kv to arrive. The heat sink and fan wont fit on it and on a 21T it gets pretty hot. New pinion arrived next day (Robinson Racing 20T 48P 5mm). I had considered swapping everything to 32P but I want to figure out the motor and gear ratio we are going to stick with first. Everything is just in with zip ties right now, a deans to XT90 adapter and some 4mm banana extension wires. If you can’t tell I have some OCD tendencies and nothing is going to stay that way but I want to get decisions finalized before modifying stuff. I think we are still on the path to finish at 3S and the hobbywing 3660 motor and I’ll just turn it all down through the ESC programming card and the controller

Got a lipo bag. Trying to teach my son to do things with more safety in mind than I normally do. GPS telemetry arrived. Still waiting on the bracket I ordered. Zip tied to the front bumper app says 45kph (about 30mph). I’m concerned with practical speed that’s hauling ass across our property a mix of grass and gravel, soaking up bumps, etc. The best “stock”numbers I could find were 20mph but no context. What’s important to us is we can outrun the dogs teeth chasing expensive tires. It now power wheelies fairly easily. I can’t imagine on a better motor and 3S. Interestingly even on full hit from a dead stop with no dampening from the programmer or controller it doesn’t wheelie or spin the wheels from a dead stop. Maybe that’s a slipper or gearing choice issue. Not that I’m complaining dead hook and go is ideal
 

Attachments

  • E6EA5452-B91D-448E-B080-B22D2D1AFEE9.jpeg
    E6EA5452-B91D-448E-B080-B22D2D1AFEE9.jpeg
    178.4 KB · Views: 5
  • 99EB7DC3-627E-4503-B95C-8C06FA1920A3.jpeg
    99EB7DC3-627E-4503-B95C-8C06FA1920A3.jpeg
    278.2 KB · Views: 5
  • 26043BF7-542D-498F-84E4-A392B0E4EFEF.jpeg
    26043BF7-542D-498F-84E4-A392B0E4EFEF.jpeg
    175.9 KB · Views: 4
  • 34B13754-A6FB-4292-AD5C-D439D8654862.jpeg
    34B13754-A6FB-4292-AD5C-D439D8654862.jpeg
    112.7 KB · Views: 4
  • F2D3FE93-3BBC-4F3E-92F7-03BC5EFE9AA2.jpeg
    F2D3FE93-3BBC-4F3E-92F7-03BC5EFE9AA2.jpeg
    179.9 KB · Views: 4
  • 662EB19A-8B6E-4B3C-BC3A-F2064C70C51B.jpeg
    662EB19A-8B6E-4B3C-BC3A-F2064C70C51B.jpeg
    180.8 KB · Views: 5
  • 7DFC30CE-824B-4412-AFB0-8DA1843834ED.jpeg
    7DFC30CE-824B-4412-AFB0-8DA1843834ED.jpeg
    225.5 KB · Views: 6
  • 566A7479-7E55-4B79-B3F0-8F6FFBBB8147.jpeg
    566A7479-7E55-4B79-B3F0-8F6FFBBB8147.jpeg
    112.5 KB · Views: 6
  • 634B21E9-1043-4E62-BA78-3C3A60DB491A.png
    634B21E9-1043-4E62-BA78-3C3A60DB491A.png
    96.5 KB · Views: 5

Latest posts

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top