AMP MT Kit build with mods

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15
Hi all. New member here, with my first AMP kit build. I purchased a RTR AMP and a kit. I liked the RTR AMP, but felt like it needed some work. My main objections to the AMPs performance are; I don't like the radio, and the steering and suspension leave much to be desired... I know $130 dollar truck! LOL.

I have enjoyed reading about other members AMP mods on this forum. My build will begin with trying to build a solid platform to improve from. No matter how fast you are, you can't win if you don't finish right?
  1. FastEddy sealed bearings.
  2. ECX Metal Gear Set ECX9001
  3. Savox 1256TG (borrowed from one of my other RC's)
  4. ESC WP 60 ESC Brushed*
  5. Spectrum 3-Channel receiver SR310 DSMR*
* I have a Spectrum DX5R radio I will use with this build. Most of these parts will probably end up back in one of my trail rigs at some point. Lets face it, altogether these parts cost more than the AMP.

This may be interesting due to the fact that it will address this question;
"what if the AMP came with mid level electronics right out of the box?"

IMG_0238.JPG
 
I modified the steering as shown in another thread, so the servo horn will not hit the pittman arm at full right turn. The servo mount brackets and frame had to be sanded down some to clear the servo wiring. At this point everything is complete and works. Hopefully I will have time to test it out tomorrow.IMG_0239.JPG
 
Any updates? My son and I will build his Amp next week with some nice upgrades right out of the gate. How's your Amp going?

Merry Christmas,
MP
Hi Pete, Merry Christmas to you!

I've run the amp a couple of times with the upgraded electronics, with mixed results. Acceleration has greatly improved, when conditions allow. The stock ESC must be a bottle neck on 2s. On loose dirt, sand, and gravel the thing is a real handful. Very hard to control even at part throttle. I am considering swapping in a larger pinion to lessen the wheel spin and get some more top end. ( I think I have that correct)

The steering is better with the Savox servo. The steering has a more direct "feel". I could drive through turns with consistency... Unless the front end strikes an object large enough to cause the steering to deflect, usually causing the truck to spin out immediately. I think I will pick up the RPM #73492 bell crank to replace the servo saver.

Note; the AMP has not had one failure of any kind.

One thing I should point out is; this is getting complicated very quickly. I don't want to spend a ton of money on parts for these AMPs. At least not on parts that won't transfer to other RC's. My plan is to take things slowly, do one upgrade at a time, and note the differences. We'll see how long I stick to that plan!
IMG_0242.JPG
The AMP behind Charlotte Motor Speedway. Awesome day ran for an hour and a half on 3, 2s 5000 mah Lipo packs. Motor stayed cool. It was 35 degrees F.

As far as the build goes; you will need grease if you install the metal gear kit. Really everything else is included. I highly recommend Lipo batteries. You will need a voltage alarm if you run the stock ESC.

I'm sure you and your son will enjoy building and driving your AMP!
 
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For the servo saver, I looked into the RPM one, but then just used superglue on the stock assembly. Worked great, no issues.

For the spinning out, on my torment, the stock tires were no good. I picked up some badlands style tires cheap off ebay and they were a HUGE improvement on handling.
 
Hi Pete, Merry Christmas to you!

I've run the amp a couple of times with the upgraded electronics, with mixed results. Acceleration has greatly improved, when conditions allow. The stock ESC must be a bottle neck on 2s. On loose dirt, sand, and gravel the thing is a real handful. Very hard to control even at part throttle. I am considering swapping in a larger pinion to lessen the wheel spin and get some more top end. ( I think I have that correct)

The steering is better with the Savox servo. The steering has a more direct "feel". I could drive through turns with consistency... Unless the front end strikes an object large enough to cause the steering to deflect, usually causing the truck to spin out immediately. I think I will pick up the RPM #73492 bell crank to replace the servo saver.

Note; the AMP has not had one failure of any kind.

One thing I should point out is; this is getting complicated very quickly. I don't want to spend a ton of money on parts for these AMPs. At least not on parts that won't transfer to other RC's. My plan is to take things slowly, do one upgrade at a time, and note the differences. We'll see how long I stick to that plan!
View attachment 2648
The AMP behind Charlotte Motor Speedway. Awesome day ran for an hour and a half on 3, 2s 5000 mah Lipo packs. Motor stayed cool. It was 35 degrees F.

As far as the build goes; you will need grease if you install the metal gear kit. Really everything else is included. I highly recommend Lipo batteries. You will need a voltage alarm if you run the stock ESC.

I'm sure you and your son will enjoy building and driving your AMP!

Thanks for the replies guys.

We will build an ECX Barrage kit as well, and I've upgraded to a Hobbywing 1080 ESC for that. One of the reasons I did this was to use the Dynamite 60A ESC for the Amp build. For power, I have a 2s 20C 4000mah lipo and two 2s 100C 8000mah lipos, and we'll sometimes use nimh as well. I've ordered another ECX13003 receiver to bind with the stock Amp transmitter. We will not use the stock ESC/RX unit. I will grease and loctite as needed for sure, and plan to run the stock brushed motor, so I don't think we'll need the metal transmission just yet. The upgrades will include the RPM servo saver eliminator kit, a full sealed bearing kit (Jim's Bearings), a Savox 0230 waterproof, metal-gear servo powered by a Hobbywing 3A/6V external BEC and an aluminum servo horn. Other than that, the plan is to only upgrade as things fail or break, so we may look into tires depending on how happy we are with the stock set. We'll likely start a build thread here for both kits.

Cheers,
MP
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Took the truck out to Uwharrie and ran all of trail 390 Danial. This is a 1:1 Jeep trail, one of the toughest in the forest. The AMP really shined as a basher, big jumps, dodging boulders at 20mph.
IMG_0257.JPG

Will need a new body now.. I'm thinking of ordering the Pro Line Baja Bug body. That should be fitting given the rear engine layout.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Took the truck out to Uwharrie and ran all of trail 390 Danial. This is a 1:1 Jeep trail, one of the toughest in the forest. The AMP really shined as a basher, big jumps, dodging boulders at 20mph.
View attachment 2653

Will need a new body now.. I'm thinking of ordering the Pro Line Baja Bug body. That should be fitting given the rear engine layout.

Nice one. My boy and I will start building his later today or tomorrow. I am planning to reinforce the lexan lid with drywall tape and shoe goo to try to make it last a bit longer. Got any pics or video from your trail run?

Merry Christmas!
MP
 

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The carnage has begun!
IMG_0267.JPG
The guys and I where bashing around the AMPs behind the shop today, we made a little jump, and pow the chassis broke Clear in half. If your gonna break, may as well go big! We also broke an "A" arm on the other AMP.
 
The carnage has begun!
View attachment 2675
The guys and I where bashing around the AMPs behind the shop today, we made a little jump, and pow the chassis broke Clear in half. If your gonna break, may as well go big! We also broke an "A" arm on the other AMP.

Wow, tough break. Could you post a photo of the break from the underside? I am curious to see if there is a weak point that could be addressed, maybe with some modification or fabrication. Cheers.
 
Wow, tough break. Could you post a photo of the break from the underside? I am curious to see if there is a weak point that could be addressed, maybe with some modification or fabrication. Cheers.

It wasn't really the AMP's fault. It was only 28*F out, we where on asphalt, and that ramp was about two and a half feet high. The I also had a 24 tooth pinion in the gear set so the AMP was going quite fast. The chassis split behind the battery tray, where the front chassis screws to the rear subframe. It is a weak spot, and could probably be fixed by adding an extension to the rear bulkhead so it overlaps the front chassis, around the battery tray. A new chassis is $15 of eBay. I will order one soon. Happy New Year!
 
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Wait a minute... This is Westside Garage, a dirty old shop that builds 4x4's. Why spend $15 on a chassis when you can spend five times as much and hand build a chassis out of tubbing!
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Got a start today; fab'ed up a floor pan out of 3"x1/8" 6061 aluminum strip. It's gonna be a sand rail!! With paddles!
 
Very Cool, how did you attach the rear shock tower to the chassis?
Well, I cheated and just screwed the stock plastic rear section of the chassis on top of the aluminum strip. There are raised sections and indentations in that plastic section that hold the gearbox and rear bulkhead. We don't have a mill to replicate those details in aluminum. There's nothing wrong with the stock plastic piece so I just re-used it. The actual shock tower may be eliminated and the shock eyes incorporated into the tube chassis. Just waiting for this cold snap to pass so I can start working on the tube frame. I will post more pictures when I have progress to show.
 

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