Black Project Torment 4x4 upgraded

VikingRC

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Location
ARIZONA
After much throwaway brushed esc wheels shocks hubs spurs... Stock Mobil 1 syn greased f/r metal diffs... 13T+39T 1:3 ratio after breaking 4 sets with diff fluid... since April 2019.
Stock 3rd center alu driveshaft on broken diffs

4S 50C basher...

Hobbywing 4268SL 2600kv 5mm brushless motor 3000W.

AARMA Outcast BLX185 150A esc + 6.5mm to 4mm connection 3-6S. Punch settings 1-9

20kg digital all metal servo.

Hot Racing hardened steel 45T mod 1.0 spur + light white lithium grease = smooth less motor load.

Robinson Racing HS 14T mod 1.0 5mm pinion.

HotRacing (HR) front alu hub carriers

HR alu front steering brace
HR alu servo saver with bearings

Replaced screws with all Axial hex screwset
PROLINE retrofit body supports
PROLINE Brute Basher body
PROLINE 2.8 MX 17mm
badlands on F11
HR alu 17mm 10mm offset adapters
Stock spectrum 3ch rec+trans
50MPH +

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Playing with 6S the smart way...
HW 2600kv 5mm brushless sensoreless motor;
BLX185 (HW QuickRun) aarma outcast esc = punch set 1 of 9;
2x 3S (25.2v) 5200mah 50C ec5 in series
and most important...keep it smooth and progressive to avoid stress...

Full steel drivetrain necessary.
Steel 45T 1.0 mod spur (lightly brushed with White Lithium Grease)
Steel 14T 1.0 mod 5mm pinion

Outside test @ 1/6 throttle was ... very fast and smooth. No need to slam throttle...so...much...torque
 

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Aarma Talion 6S 2019. 16mm. 4mm shaft. 35wt shock oil.
Ecx alu shocks... probably need to upgrade as my rig weighs 8.75Ibs with 4S and 9Ibs 1oz with 6S llol. And it's really rated for 5.5-6Ib rig...

I think so though im sure it's the 4x4 version as my shop special ordered it for me. Really helps strengthen the front end in bashing
 
I'm at a fur convention for my daughter...lol
I probably wasn't clear...sorry.

Full steel drivetrain necessary
=
Steel 45T 1.0 mod spur (lightly brushed with White Lithium Grease)
Steel 14T 1.0 mod 5mm pinion
Steel diff gears
Steel ring and pinion
Steel front rear axle drive shafts
only center drive shaft (too long at 220mm imho) is alu. This is now the necessary weak link to break first.

Motor actually runs cooler faster and smoother overall. And stronger.

When i 1st got this ecx 4x4 in 2 days i burnt brushed motor esc spurs shocks...in few days. Not really bashing on 2s. Junk. Upgrading following breaking teaches you a lot.

I hope this helped. Have fun
 
6S 50C 5200 series.... punch lvl 1.

Max Speed 72 MPH GPS mark WHOHOO!!!.....keeping nose down and part wheelies too... of course sheared front pins off center alu driveshaft in end lol... but i never rolled the truck nor crashed. Passive braking and steering at min etc...

Going back to 4S useable power lol.
 
All right.... stoked. FINALLY! Just replaced and upgraded rear shocks with red Outcast 6S front shocks... wow such plush smooth perfect dampening for a 9Ib rig! And... max rear travel restored. Now i need to work on my TALION 6S front shocks... from 35 to 60 wt perhaps and longer springs? Dampening too bouncy....

Transferred my gold ecx alu shocks rated for max 5Ib. over to my son's 2wd reinforced 2S/4000kv SW4 ecx rig much needed torment 2wd. Excellent rebound.

[Rem a stock 4x4 torment brushed sct is only 5.5Ibs just waiting to burn out and break anything.]

So fun...
 
I don't really think it's worth putting all of this money into that truck. They have discontinued all spare parts for it so if you break something, you will have a really hard time finding the replacement (Hopefully someone has one on eBay or something). I gave up and just sent it up the ramp at full speed and it died a glorious death. I still have a box of good (used) parts though.
 
Thanks. Very generous sir. I would be interested.
Perhaps you could pm me to discuss details?

PS. I've discovered ECX seems to have differing thicknesses between the diff pinion gears???
Irritating as we are essentially dealing with racing high stress points and millimetres make a huge difference in performance.
I shimmed 1 in case but it was to late...too much play = destroyed the ring gear teeth lol. Powerful fast yet clatterring under hard accelerarion or braking? Not normal. Hmm. Always learning! Opened up both diff ring/pinion... beaten. Ah. Another $13 for pair ....
still carefully Frankensteined this 4.5Ib Brushed 4x4 into a 9Ib 4S Brushless monster... since Apr 7 2019.

PS2 Expert accessing my way around my 4x4 Monster Torment .... best part of learning this hobby = what doesn't work lol
 

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Thanks for the pics.

Got a bit of clattering myself and wasn't sure of the easiest way to access the diffs.

Thought taking the whole top off the suspension was probably it, looks like it is the only option.

Also your homebrew mud guards inspired me.

5284
 
Lol... mud-rock guards were before i totally trashed the sct body and upgraded to the proline brute white bash body btw 3x thicker and works...and 2.8 MX wheels.....

Essentially yes.
¹... remove slipper cover after loosening motor top plate
²... remove chassis top brace
³... remove wheels
⁴... disconnect shock bottom screw
⁵... dis connect turnbuckles
... i know...tons of screws lol
⁶... remove gearbox with shock tower to access diffs

Voila. Pita to work on. Aarma/Proline/Tekno soooooo much easier.

Hope this helps. Because i no longer stress when i need to service check all.... do it moreorless blind.
 
I don't really think it's worth putting all of this money into that truck. They have discontinued all spare parts for it so if you break something, you will have a really hard time finding the replacement (Hopefully someone has one on eBay or something). I gave up and just sent it up the ramp at full speed and it died a glorious death. I still have a box of good (used) parts though.

I believe you're absolutely correct.

This is a money-pit rc design...poor investment indeed for what i was looking for. I'm not interested in a mild crawler or 15-25mph 5 year old rc design; unfit for racing really.... i really spent 80% fixing it.

new diffs (3rd set...because Ecx forces to buy a complete diff for $32 good business indeed) from 3 weeks ago = already rear spider gears lost teeth...again... not too mention the diff pinions from HorizonHobby... I'm done. And i only was testing on road as 3S, no crashes at all???? O m g.

Great BEGINNER learning platform for the short term ! Buyer beware...dont.

PS:
Original ECx 4x4 Torment roller from rc store with silly brushed motor etc. I did not know at time: this was never meant to upgrade anywhere past 2S on road AND parts are just too expensive and not up to par...unless you're just lightly driving around granny-style. Perfect rc... if you want to spend most of your time wrenching lol.

Definitely learnt multiple hands-on lessons and paid for it diligently. I know my way around rc pretty well now. A BIG positive thank you. I now understand which combinations work and don't.

Photo is what is moreorless original except essential reinforced HotRacing steering system with cheap Kinexsis 4000kv 3mm + 70A esc = MAX 2S 20C road or smooth track only. My sons 2wd ecx sct favors 2S max without breakage.

my "triple" 2cc.
 

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I believe you're absolutely correct.

This is a money-pit rc design...poor investment indeed for what i was looking for. I'm not interested in a mild crawler or 15-25mph 5 year old rc design; unfit for racing really.... i really spent 80% fixing it.

new diffs (3rd set...because Ecx forces to buy a complete diff for $32 good business indeed) from 3 weeks ago = already rear spider gears lost teeth...again... not too mention the diff pinions from HorizonHobby... I'm done. And i only was testing on road as 3S, no crashes at all???? O m g.

Great BEGINNER learning platform for the short term ! Buyer beware...dont.

PS:
Original ECx 4x4 Torment roller from rc store with silly brushed motor etc. I did not know at time: this was never meant to upgrade anywhere past 2S on road AND parts are just too expensive and not up to par...unless you're just lightly driving around granny-style. Perfect rc... if you want to spend most of your time wrenching lol.

Definitely learnt multiple hands-on lessons and paid for it diligently. I know my way around rc pretty well now. A BIG positive thank you. I now understand which combinations work and don't.

Photo is what is moreorless original except essential reinforced HotRacing steering system with cheap Kinexsis 4000kv 3mm + 70A esc = MAX 2S 20C road or smooth track only. My sons 2wd ecx sct favors 2S max without breakage.

my "triple" 2cc.

I ran a kinexsis in mine til it died. That system was reliable-ish, but the drag-brake acted funny. It's definitely the front diff if you hear it under braking. For sure shim your diffs, both my diffs rounded out because I didn't.

Protip, the diff case is a big weak spot. If anything hit's the arm, all of the force will rip the toe plate right out. I used zip ties and tightened them around both plates and the arm, holding them together, so if the impact breaks anything, it's gotta go through the zip tie first. They really are the most useful thing!

I also have the pinion gear cover if you need it as well.
 
Hej Roanoke
Busy life is good life right. Family... No worries.
Thanks.

After much thought...actually I've decided to stop using this platform and trade/sell my truck for cash as well as the new parts that arrived ...

and possibly upgrade buy the 3S/4S designed Proline MT 4x4 kit from Amain.com and sell back the 4x MX tires and clear body that come with it, at my rc shop as new. Very little out of pocket...

Still keep my trusty 2wd Torment sct as its bullerproof with TBone bumpers and alu rear knuckles + steel driveline as a 2S 20C/50C beginner light park basher for my daughter.
 
Hej Roanoke
Busy life is good life right. Family... No worries.
Thanks.

After much thought...actually I've decided to stop using this platform and trade/sell my truck for cash as well as the new parts that arrived ...

and possibly upgrade buy the 3S/4S designed Proline MT 4x4 kit from Amain.com and sell back the 4x MX tires and clear body that come with it, at my rc shop as new. Very little out of pocket...

Still keep my trusty 2wd Torment sct as its bullerproof with TBone bumpers and alu rear knuckles + steel driveline as a 2S 20C/50C beginner light park basher for my daughter.

So to clarify, you still want the parts to sell with your truck, right? Are you gonna put the arrma system in the proline?
 
Hi.
No thank you. Pulling the plug.
After latest diff breakage... again... just driving around on 3S? ...I am done spending any more $$ on this flawed little truck and bringing it to sell as roller directly for a loss at my rc shop together with new parts received, $ for $. Just replaced diff pinion. Good little roller for kids.

I so appreciate all your efforts. Thank you.

Yes keeping all 1/8 parts for later after I've paid off credit.
 

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