Bought and broken in 3 days

netmatt

Active Member
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37
...but it was a fun 3 days! :)

Here is what I got. First the little skid plate on the bottom broke out of the screws, which I can fix.

CarBreak1.jpg

Second, was hoping for a little guessing/identification of what to check first. A lot of clicking and grinding in the gear box area. Was going to first check the Slipper/Motor gear connection, 'cause I saw a video on how to access that. If not that, what's the next best guess?

 
Hmmm...probably not since I did not realize I was supposed to set the gear mesh.

So I did a quick lookup and found it here. As good a place as any to start, thanks!

 
OK, so the mesh was good, and the spur gear is fine. Sounds like I got a gearbox issue. Grabbing the metal gear set (ecx9001), and will open and replace.

I can't seem to find a good video on getting the gearbox out, or changing to metal gears. There is this one, but its a little blurry and skippy:
Maybe someone knows of a better one? Not sure what would be similar/compatible type of RC (like a circuit or another model) that would be the same steps?
 
That was it! Metal gears and rolling again! Woohoo! Here is the bad gear, ends up the video above was enough...it's actually really easy!

car3.jpg
 
OK, two weeks later and lost a wheel while turning. Appears there are top/bottom screws that may have came out here...I have not gotten into it, but I assume since its all plastic, I am thinking it is likely the holes are stripped in there. What do you guys think? (1) New screws (if not stripped), or (2) upgrade to non-plastic, cause this is pretty typical when bashing, and its going to keep happening.

IMG_20200513_173644_resized_20200513_054115155.jpg
 
Losing the screws out of the castor blocks is a known flaw with the design of this platform.

Once you lose them they are most likely stripped. You can try and glue em in or rig something up, but they can't be to tight because your wheels pivot on those shoulder screws as well as them holding the wheel on.

Horizon Hobby sells an aluminum upgrade to that part. It's pricey, but it with a bit of Blue loctite and you will never look back.

Or you can replace that plastic part and get new screws and just be dealing with the same problem again sooner or later.
 
The hot racing steering knuckles are what you need. You also will want to grab new shoulder screws to go with them, unless you still have yours. Put em on, with a bit of Blue loctite and you will be golden.

I myself never went with the aluminum castor blocks. You can if you want, but it's the knuckles that are causing your problem. Once I got mine 3 years ago? I've never had another issue even with the plastic castor blocks.
 
Thanks for the help! Just to be sure, that would be the "ECX1065 - ECX RC Shoulder Screw Set (8)", based on this exploded view: LINK?

I see some folks talk about replacing the philips style screws with hex head? Is it worth it, and is Grainger or McMaster-Carr the best options for that?
 
No problem, and thanks for the assist. I have found that some stores have the knuckles and some have the screws. Amain and Hobbytown have both, but one item is "in store only" and the other is shipping (not to the store). Amazon has both for shipping, but the screws are 4x the price...ugh. No-one said it would be easy! ;-)
 
It's not easy because 2 years ago Horizon Hobby decided to be douchbags and try to make ECX a "in store only" brand in an effort to support local hobby shops.

Which is fine in itself. But they're screwing over any rural customers, and to be honest most local hobby shops don't exactly have every part, and I'm not interested in waiting 2 weeks for something when I want to drive truck now.

That's why when they made the announcement I stocked up on parts. Aside from a chassis I could probably build another truck and a half just of parts.

It's still possible to get parts online. But definitely more difficult now.
 
Thanks! Is this what I am looking for? I did not see it at Horizon Hobby.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Racing-Aluminum-Steering-Knuckles/dp/B00XF8B6KC/

Or am I looking for these...backordered:

https://www.amazon.com/ECX-Caster-Block-Aluminum-2WD/dp/B00LMITEEM/

...or both?

This https://www.horizonhobby.com/aluminum-steering-blocks--blue:-ecx-2wd-p-hraect2106

and these https://www.horizonhobby.com/shoulder-screw-set-(8):-circuit--ruckus--boost-ecx1065

also use blue thread lock (locktite) on the threads when installing the shoulder screws.

The caster blocks if you want to replace them you can just get the RPM caster blocks https://www.horizonhobby.com/heavy-duty-caster-blocks--black;-bst-cir-ruc-tor-2wd-rpm73442
 
Ah, thanks I was looking for ect2106 on Horizon Hobby, and missed the "hra" so I got no results. Now I know! I have since called my local Hobbytown who ordered them and will call me on Tues/Wed when they come in.

I notice most of these say compatible with "ECX Boost, 2WD Circuit, 2WD Ruckus and 2WD Torment" I rarely see the AMP listed? Is there one of these that is basically the same parts?
 
This is my understanding regarding the models and experience... other people or sources may have more accurate info. So my knowledge may be wrong.

The Boost, ECX's older buggy model. Out of production for a few years now. Parts compatibility with the AMP - unknown. But if you trust your eye enough I'd bet at least a few of the parts are the same.

The Circuit, basically the Amp in a different body. Or, since the Circuit came first, the AMP is a copy of it with less options, and more budget friendly, cheaper servo, radio, no 4wd option, ect... but the same chassis and bare bones parts - As far as I know. Most parts for AMP I've bought come with a label saying 2wd Circuit, AMP, Torment, maybe Boost I don't remember right now. But I'm confident that parts compatibility between the Circuit and AMP are pretty high.

Torment - My buddy has one, and parts compatibility is probably 50/50 with the AMP at best. Completely different frame, suspension, shock towers... I'd geuss that based on the labels of parts that the steering components, and wheel parts are mostly likely the same.
 

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