ECX Metal Gear Set

J

jamesx65

Active Member
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27
So yesterday I was running my boost with a 2S LiPo and 5700 kV motor. I hard a loud noise that started getting worse and then the car wouldn’t move anymore. I went inside and took off the gear cover (I was thinking I stripped my spur gear again) and I found that the spur and pinion gear were fine. So I then took apart the transmission case and I found that the idle gear was almost completely stripped out. There was no grease in there (and if there was there wasn’t much left) and all the plastic was everywhere on the inside. So I ordered a new ECX Metal Gear Set. When it gets here, do I need to clean and grease my transmission case or is it supposed to be dry? I don’t have any money left after spending almost $30 on the new gear set so I can’t buy grease. I might be able to find something in my garage but I’m not sure. Is there any substitutes I can use that will get the job done? Also, does the new diff come greased? Any response would be great because I’ve never touched the inside of my transmission case before.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
I packed everything with a "marine grade grease"(less susceptable to water)....and was already in my grease gun in the garage.
*I opened the new metal diff and finished filling ontop of the factory light grease with the marine grease.
*I coated both the idle gear and the metal diff teeth with marine grease and set it in one half of the gear case...spun it many times....then packed the remaining areas in the gear case with the same marine grease.
 
DantheMan said:
I packed everything with a "marine grade grease"(less susceptable to water)....and was already in my grease gun in the garage.
*I opened the new metal diff and finished filling ontop of the factory light grease with the marine grease.
*I coated both the idle gear and the metal diff teeth with marine grease and set it in one half of the gear case...spun it many times....then packed the remaining areas in the gear case with the same marine grease.
Click to expand...
So do I have to buy marine grease? Or will it work without it? Are there any substitutes for it?
 
DantheMan said:
*I used what I use for our family vehicles(real vehicles). Do you have any grease in a grease gun or in a container in your garage?(NOT cooking grease)
Click to expand...
I will look for some but if I don’t find any could I just use some old grease from my differential?
 
You do not need to fill your gearbox with grease, just a little bit on the teeth of each gear. Anything else just becomes a mess that looks like the inside of your old differential. You can change the diff effect by changing the grease in the diff with thicker/thinner grease, if you want.
 
DantheMan said:
No it isn't enough.. **Also, you wouldn't want to reuse that anyways. You will see why when you open your new diff. (That grease is spent in the original diff...its dirty.)
Click to expand...
Alright, I think we might have some “Marine Grease” at the shop. Would that be good?
 
Biz73 said:
You do not need to fill your gearbox with grease, just a little bit on the teeth of each gear. Anything else just becomes a mess that looks like the inside of your old differential. You can change the diff effect by changing the grease in the diff with thicker/thinner grease, if you want.
Click to expand...
Do you have any pictures of what it should look lik?
 
*Its hard to describe with words....the case isnt jammed packed with it. There is room to breathe around the idler gears and diff gear themselves.(I can fit a toothpick around the gears without getting grease on the toothpick...as an example, the remaining areas filled up by the grease.)
-Should any water driving time happen...almost the entire trans case is sealed with the grease. Also, any wear from the metal gears...will 100% get flung outwards and remain caught into the extra grease, not re-distrubuted back through the gears.
 
DantheMan said:
*Its hard to describe with words....the case isnt jammed packed with it. There is room to breathe around the idler gears and diff gear themselves.(I can fit a toothpick around the gears without getting grease on the toothpick...as an example, the remaining areas filled up by the grease.)
-Should any water driving time happen...almost the entire trans case is sealed with the grease. Also, any wear from the metal gears...will 100% get flung outwards and remain caught into the extra grease, not re-distrubuted back through the gears.
Click to expand...
Do you have any pictures as an example?
 
I do not have any pictures of what I did.
-My best worded description is what I just typed previously, and as already stated..."IT IS NOT REQUIRED to fill the gear case", however, what wasn't described in that other members comment are the positives to doing so. The only negative, is what that member mentioned..."its messy to clean up when you open it up later down the road".
*Follow my worded description when you are assembling and you'll get it.
 
DantheMan said:
I do not have any pictures of what I did.
-My best worded description is what I just typed previously, and as already stated..."IT IS NOT REQUIRED to fill the gear case", however, what wasn't described in that other members comment are the positives to doing so. The only negative, is what that member mentioned..."its messy to clean up when you open it up later down the road".
*Follow my worded description when you are assembling and you'll get it.
Click to expand...
Ok. Thanks for the help! :)
 
When I turn the wheels it will go fine and then hit a spot (where it’s rubbing something) and it slows down a lot. It started happening after putting the spur gear and clutch assembly on. Sounds like it is coming from there too. Any ideas????
 
you are going to have to describe this better.
*when the wheels turn....(the rear wheels?), and do you mean by hand? or under power by the motor?
**If yes about the rear wheels, you may have the gear mesh for the pinion to the motor set too tight to the spur gear.(there should be the smallest "click click of slop/play between the spur gear and the pinion gear when rotating the spur gear back and fourth with your hand)
 
DantheMan said:
you are going to have to describe this better.
*when the wheels turn....(the rear wheels?), and do you mean by hand? or under power by the motor?
**If yes about the rear wheels, you may have the gear mesh for the pinion to the motor set too tight to the spur gear.(there should be the smallest "click click of slop/play between the spur gear and the pinion gear when rotating the spur gear back and fourth with your hand)
Click to expand...
I haven’t even put the motor and pinion in yet. When one wheel is still and you spin the other by hand it spins smooth and then at a certain spot it grabs and you hear a rubbing noise with it and then it stops rubbing and spins freely again.
 

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