ECX Ruckus Rebuild/Upgrade and Not Happy

knightsae

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6
The original platform is an older ECX Ruckus - Brushed 2WD 1/10 size. I have replaced odds and ends due to breakage over the years including metal drive shafts, metal hexes, RPM front a-Arms, RPM rear axle carriers and the larger bearings from Fast Eddy's. I recently ripped both wires out of the existing brushed motor and the NiMH batteries I have are just not doing it anymore. I figure it was a good time to do a brushless upgrade and a lipo battery. So I ordered the following:
  • Shaluoman Waterproof 60A Sensorless Brushless Car Electronic Speed Control ESC (Amazon ESC)
  • GOLDBAT 3S 11.1V 3000mAh 30C Lipo Battery (Amazon Lipo Battery)
And I was given this motor Shaluoman 3650 3900KV Brushless Motor (Amazon Brushless Motor).

The install was easy and everything is working well but I am not getting the speed I would have expected, not much faster than stock. I see people installing similar powered setups in this and similar vehicles and they are doing wheelies and really moving much faster. I am currently running an 87 tooth spur gear and 18 tooth pinion gear. I have checked the slipper clutch and adjusted it to ensure that wasn't the issue. I have charged the battery to full and that is not the issue. I do not have a programming card which this ESC requires to program so I will be getting that on Monday but I do not see anything that would increase my top speed with that only changing 'Start Mode' and how fast it applies power to the motor. It is worth noting that there is a slight delay in throttle response and the truck moving but I think that to can be fixed with the programming card. I also am using the stock controller. I don't have any funds available to purchase one of the higher end brushless setups so hoping there is something obvious that I am missing. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Ok, I fond the issue. This was setup so that reverse was forward and forward was reverse. The stock settings on the ESC limited reverse so that's why it wasn't fast. Just tested it and it is much faster.
 
What do you think top speed is now. I just picked up a 12t brushed motor to run with my stock esc while things come back online and in stock
 
Any of those cheap goolrc program cards (red one, grey one, black one) will work with that esc. The only thing I don't like, is the lvc on them. They only go up to 3.2, and probably are set even lower from the factory. I use those cheap plug in low voltage alarms set at 3.5v.
 
4x4Addict, top speed has to be a little north of 40 as my street is 45 MPH and I can keep up with them for the most part. Unfortunately, I did not have time to do an actual speed test as I cannot keep the wheel hexes from stripping. I have aluminum hexes and the actual tire side is stripping out and I have already got new lock nuts, and swapped all 4 tires so now they are 'ALL' stripped. Any secret sauces to fix this? I have read about going to 17MM but that sounds like a lot of expense and not a huge fan of using the adapters. It is worth noting that the metal Hit Racing drive shafts I have are the first generation and they do not have the hole for a pin but have two Allen head screws to tighten to the drive shaft after the rear bearing carrier. This means that I cannot torque down the wheel nuts crazy hard cause they aluminum hexes end up slipping on the shaft and pull the tire too hard into the bearing and locks up the wheel.

Thanks for the heads up Steve G. On this ESC the Low Voltage Protection is between 2.6V and 3.7V; default setting is 3.1V. When I get the card I will change that to 3.3V.
 
Ok, got a speed test done after modifying the hexes. Doing a shade over 43 mph right now. I am running an 18 tooth spur. Should I move higher if I want to go faster?
 
There should be a crush washer to go between the bearings so you can tighten the wheel nut tight and it'll transfer the pressure on the inner race of the bearings. I had those driveshafts for a while on one of my trucks. I also use loctite on the wheel nuts. Let it set overnight before using it.
 
The drive shafts only came with a small washer that is the size of the inner bearing. Does this go on the inside of the bearing or on the outside/wheel side of the bearing?
 

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