Gearbox refresh

Imnoexpert Rc

Active Member
Messages
36
Just a general post just locked the diff in the 2wd ruckus. Gunna add some stress to the gearbox I imagine so looking into spur and pinion upgrade. This is what I have done to help along the way
 

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Littlewalker15

New Member
Messages
3
Have you had any issues with the gears striping even with the metal ones cause I put them in my torment 2wd and I've noticed they have a lot of back lash
 

Imnoexpert Rc

Active Member
Messages
36
no Problem with the metal gears at all i thought the same a lot of backlash. It’s the idle gear that will go first but they’ve been in there for months with it breaking everything around gears like hexes driveshafts and obliterating bearings So I think the gear set held up quite well. Can’t fault it. Defo get some metal driveshafts if you haven’t already
 

weave

Well-Known Member
Messages
427
Location
San Jose, Calif
Just a general post just locked the diff in the 2wd ruckus. Gunna add some stress to the gearbox I imagine so looking into spur and pinion upgrade. This is what I have done to help along the way

Imnoexpert Rc, on the spur gear shaft, place a shim over the bearing. There should have been one on it when you took the plastic spur off. It helps to keep the heat away from the motor/slipper housing that is caused by the slipper plates. Below is what will happen if the shim is missing, especially if you run with a semi-loose slipper clutch or harden steel spur gear. The slipper clutch plates get very, very hot. This was caused by a semi-loose slipper clutch maybe to lose, none less, it's better to be safe than sorry.​

 

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Imnoexpert Rc

Active Member
Messages
36

Imnoexpert Rc, on the spur gear shaft, place a shim over the bearing. There should have been one on it when you took the plastic spur off. It helps to keep the heat away from the motor/slipper housing that is caused by the slipper plates. Below is what will happen if the shim is missing, especially if you run with a semi-loose slipper clutch or harden steel spur gear. The slipper clutch plates get very, very hot. This was caused by a semi-loose slipper clutch maybe to lose, none less, it's better to be safe than sorry.​

Defiantly always put the shim there as I knew it was there for a reason. Can I not use another spur bar hot racing’s option tho any other car have same gear I can use even a pitch change so changing spur and pinion to match as not many gear options with what’s available for this specific truck. Also in the uk where I am it’s a straight wait a month for the spur and pay nearly parts and a half shipping meaning I’m paying over double what the spur gear is worth. Surely there’s another gear set that will work like off a ax10 axial gear box or something. Or would I be better off putting a ax10 whole gear box in it as it’s nearly a straight fit and I have what’s needed to make it fit properly
 

VonDave

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
the Netherlands
I had my metal gears stripping, even when the shim was in place.
It took me a while, but I found the reason why it happened:
When I drove my trucks using a 3s lipo, when hitting the brakes at high speeds the gears receive a LOT of stress. Combine that with too tightly adjusted slippers and -=HEAT=- will cause serious issues!
Now, I was thinking when I heard some nasty sounds coming from the gearbox "well, it's getting it now! The gears are partially stripped, so ready for the bin anyway, might as well give it one more rip!"
Yeah, that's what you should NOT do...
Heat + plastic casing + metal axles being moved around by debris in the casing and between the left over gears = axial play...
So, basically at this point my gearbox casing was compromised, leading to only more and more axial play (thus increased backlash between gears) which caused the new gear set(s) to get stripped as well, with even light driving.
So, when making a mistake like I did, best would be to but a new casing to prevent the axial play to eat away at the new gears...
The metal Axial AX10 gearboxes are quite good, I have the plastic casing version with metal gears myself and I'm over the moon with them! Very cheap and really durable!
I have tormented the crap out of the gearboxes on my Circuit and Ruckus on 2 and 3s and they don't budge.
The AX10 gearboxes don't have a diff either, causing larger turn citcles, but providing awesome traction.
I will post a new topic about how I've fitted them.

-Dave
 

Imnoexpert Rc

Active Member
Messages
36
I had my metal gears stripping, even when the shim was in place.
It took me a while, but I found the reason why it happened:
When I drove my trucks using a 3s lipo, when hitting the brakes at high speeds the gears receive a LOT of stress. Combine that with too tightly adjusted slippers and -=HEAT=- will cause serious issues!
Now, I was thinking when I heard some nasty sounds coming from the gearbox "well, it's getting it now! The gears are partially stripped, so ready for the bin anyway, might as well give it one more rip!"
Yeah, that's what you should NOT do...
Heat + plastic casing + metal axles being moved around by debris in the casing and between the left over gears = axial play...
So, basically at this point my gearbox casing was compromised, leading to only more and more axial play (thus increased backlash between gears) which caused the new gear set(s) to get stripped as well, with even light driving.
So, when making a mistake like I did, best would be to but a new casing to prevent the axial play to eat away at the new gears...
The metal Axial AX10 gearboxes are quite good, I have the plastic casing version with metal gears myself and I'm over the moon with them! Very cheap and really durable!
I have tormented the crap out of the gearboxes on my Circuit and Ruckus on 2 and 3s and they don't budge.
The AX10 gearboxes don't have a diff either, causing larger turn citcles, but providing awesome traction.
I will post a new topic about how I've fitted them.

-Dave
Defiantly going to be using the ax10 gearbox eventually. How did you deal with the front mounting points using a tie rod and the side bolt of the rear shock tower and a long screw ? Pics would be great. I’ve not had trouble with my gears as of yet they are metal and I only run 2s as the standard tazer brushless system doesn’t accept 3s but it’s the next step as I have a new esc plate that’s been 3D printed to alow a bigger footprint esc to be mounted without any over hang. So the gears defiantly the next victim When it goes 3s
 

VonDave

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
the Netherlands
Hi!
I've started a new thread in the "general chaos" forum, where I introduce our ECX machines. In that film you'll see the 2 methods I've used to attach the gearbox.
It' quite a long video, but during the Circuit and Ruckus segments, you'll see my solutions.
I will make a new video soon about my metal drive shaft fix, which will also include my attachment solutions.
But in the mean time I'd suggest watching the video to see some nice close ups I did when I filmed the gearboxes.

-Dave
 

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