Great ECX AMP Racing Results!

ERock

Member
Messages
10
My son and I joined a racing club and competed in our first-ever RC races this Sunday. We went with zero expectations and just wanted to learn and have fun, but we made the podium! I took 3rd place in Novice Oval and my son took 3rd place in Novice Off-Road while I got Top Qualifier in Novice Off-Road.

I drive the AMP Desert Buggy and my son drives the AMP Monster Truck. He actually started out with his black MT but it took such a beating that we had to switch to a "guest truck" that I purchased so he could have a friend over and drive with them - fortunately I brought that truck along with us, just in case.

We both agreed to drive totally stock. I have a ton of upgrades waiting in the wings, mostly that I learned of from you all, but held off on implementing any of them until after our first race day.

The only mod we did make was the tires, as the stock tires just couldn't grip anything - seemed my son was driving on ice during practice, so we put on some Hole Shots that I had mounted to Avid wheels, and they worked quite well. Super fun day. I'm implementing some upgrades now and really look forward to the next race day in a couple weeks.
 

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WithinU

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Awesome, great job to both of you.

Maybe leave them stock and try improving the placement? I mean you did get TQ, maybe make that a first place finish before modding?
 

ERock

Member
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10
Thanks for the kind words, guys. @WithinU That is an excellent idea, but it's also too late - I was chomping at the bit to install the Dynamite Tazer Twin Motor/ESC and upgrade some of the plastic turnbuckles to metal alternatives (at least one vehicle per race was losing a steering linkage) as well as upgrade the Tx/Rx. That's all done now. Should post a pic and detail the mods in another thread soon.
 

95PGTTech

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Messages
401
Thanks for the kind words, guys. @WithinU That is an excellent idea, but it's also too late - I was chomping at the bit to install the Dynamite Tazer Twin Motor/ESC and upgrade some of the plastic turnbuckles to metal alternatives (at least one vehicle per race was losing a steering linkage) as well as upgrade the Tx/Rx. That's all done now. Should post a pic and detail the mods in another thread soon.

is a gyro permitted in your class? the dumbo x6 radio and gyro receiver has been night and day difference for us driving a high powered 2wd
 

ERock

Member
Messages
10
is a gyro permitted in your class? the dumbo x6 radio and gyro receiver has been night and day difference for us driving a high powered 2wd
I am almost positive I couldn't use it in novice. I bought a DX5C with a receiver that has Active Vehicle Control (probably similar to what you have) but I can turn it off. I plan on trying it out at home but shutting it off for racing while I'm in the novice class. The upgraded controller itself might get me out of novice, for all I know.
 

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
401
I am almost positive I couldn't use it in novice. I bought a DX5C with a receiver that has Active Vehicle Control (probably similar to what you have) but I can turn it off. I plan on trying it out at home but shutting it off for racing while I'm in the novice class. The upgraded controller itself might get me out of novice, for all I know.

I don’t know about RC racing, but in 1:1 cars and motorcycles something like that which could be switched on and off would not be allowed. Even if they did take your word that it was switched off and left off for the remainder of the race, it would introduce doubt for accusations to be made.

Yeah other manufacturers call it AVC or other acronyms but they are all basically an accelerometer in the receiver to detect steering angle versus the power vector and it countersteers into corners. Gain is usually adjustable from the radio. There will always be a geezer with the “I don’t need no aides learn to drive it” and you can just countersteer yourself I just find it a nice help when I’m just bashing and horsing around a big power 2wd on a low traction surface like gravel it makes it a little more fun and a little less work
 

bi555

Active Member
Messages
37
When DumboRC is with gyro on from rx and set on 0% it still works. IMO I prefer the Axe Brutus w/o gyro at all, so turned off from rx.
 

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
401
When DumboRC is with gyro on from rx and set on 0% it still works. IMO I prefer the Axe Brutus w/o gyro at all, so turned off from rx.

They offer a version of the receiver without gyro so that would be one way I think it would be permissible for class racing. It varies so much facility to facility.
 

bi555

Active Member
Messages
37
They offer a version of the receiver without gyro so that would be one way I think it would be permissible for class racing. It varies so much facility to facility.
I know. I purchased the radio w rx gyro included and I still have only it. But I noticed that when on but set on zero seems that he still works a little bit
 

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
401
I know. I purchased the radio w rx gyro included and I still have only it. But I noticed that when on but set on zero seems that he still works a little bit

I had to put my x6fg into gyro mode, it didn’t come enabled. I had to put it in reverse gyro mode (click 2x, flashes green/yellow) because I use reverse steer on the radio. Not in the manual, I had to find it online
 

ERock

Member
Messages
10
I returned my APM DB to stock (except for the stronger linkage) for a few reasons:

1. Much more fun to bash with and race my son when we're evenly matched; that really is most important.
2. Much more in keeping with the rules of the novice class - I'd like to remain in that class, in my club, for this first year. I really have a lot to learn about driving and racing.
3. The torque and speed of the Tazer Twin really was a bit much for me at this time. The concentration required to not-over-do-it took a lot of the fun out of the experience; I lost that "flow" in my driving that I really enjoyed. I have that again with the 540 brushed - it just seems right for me at this time.

It was good experience though: to tear everything down and build it back up a couple times over - learned a bit on the technical side.
 

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
401
I returned my APM DB to stock (except for the stronger linkage) for a few reasons:

1. Much more fun to bash with and race my son when we're evenly matched; that really is most important.
2. Much more in keeping with the rules of the novice class - I'd like to remain in that class, in my club, for this first year. I really have a lot to learn about driving and racing.
3. The torque and speed of the Tazer Twin really was a bit much for me at this time. The concentration required to not-over-do-it took a lot of the fun out of the experience; I lost that "flow" in my driving that I really enjoyed. I have that again with the 540 brushed - it just seems right for me at this time.

It was good experience though: to tear everything down and build it back up a couple times over - learned a bit on the technical side.

I commend you for having the humility to say that. Typically people just keep adding parts to compensate and then blaming equipment when they inevitably get drove around (I’m speaking from 1:1 car racing and motorcycle racing and slot car racing but I’m sure RC is the same).

In stock racing the driver will be the largest factor, but so will be maintenance. Instead of getting a big improvement from a single part, look for a million tiny improvements in a million different places. Maintenance and tolerances etc. factory adjustments like shock preload.
 

WithinU

Well-Known Member
Messages
466
Location
Land of Oz
I agree, everyone or at least most, want to be that fast guy in the upper class.
I think you two did great placing third and getting TQ. Not many can say that in one race.

Like @95PGTTech just said there are a lot of tricks to get the most out of a car than throwing money and mods at it. Being in a stock class those tricks make a novice driver a great driver. Maybe TQ and a first place finish is in your future. (y)
 

bi555

Active Member
Messages
37
@ERock what motor, spur and pinion gear do you have on? If you can detail I thank you. :)
 

bi555

Active Member
Messages
37
We have Axe & Brutus which are stock 550 12T, spur is 93t 48p (no longer available, only 87T still available) with 16T 48p pinion, and the motor already over heat after about 10/ 15 minutes. I don't know how to solve this problem now that only 87T spur is available. Maybe switch to a 550 20T motor. Because with smaller pinions there is not enough adjustment space to properly couple the pinion and spur
 

ERock

Member
Messages
10
We have Axe & Brutus which are stock 550 12T, spur is 93t 48p (no longer available, only 87T still available) with 16T 48p pinion, and the motor already over heat after about 10/ 15 minutes. I don't know how to solve this problem now that only 87T spur is available. Maybe switch to a 550 20T motor. Because with smaller pinions there is not enough adjustment space to properly couple the pinion and spur
Another option could be a 15T motor and a fan. I’ve been experimenting with fans this Summer. ProTek makes one for about $15 35x35x10mm and “mrporkypig” sells a mount that works with a few ECX models, on eBay, for $7 or so: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133848757568 I’m not sure if the mount works with the Axe & Brutus nor sure if this would solve your heat problem, but just putting a possibility out there.

In my AMP’s cases, I’ve found the mounted fan to make a huge difference in the Summer heat.
 

95PGTTech

Well-Known Member
Messages
401
We have Axe & Brutus which are stock 550 12T, spur is 93t 48p (no longer available, only 87T still available) with 16T 48p pinion, and the motor already over heat after about 10/ 15 minutes. I don't know how to solve this problem now that only 87T spur is available. Maybe switch to a 550 20T motor. Because with smaller pinions there is not enough adjustment space to properly couple the pinion and spur

I would go with a fan. 15 mins is also a long run time for a brushed motor.

There are heatsink/fan combos which will clip right on
 

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