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Hex size for grub screw pinion?

FrancisDM

Member
Messages
7
I was trying to change the motor of my amp crush and when i used the included allen wrench to remove the pinion, seems that i rounded the included allen wrench or the grub itself. I wasnt able to take the pinion off. I'd take it to our lhs but they dont do repairs now because of the quarantine. Thinking of ordering a hex screw and pinion online but wanted to check what size should i order. Thanks in advance.
 

Spanky

Member
Messages
24
Location
Loomis Ca
the pitch is 48 of the opinion and spur, the allen wrench is a 1.5mm, you get a new set screw when you get the new pinion
 

Spanky

Member
Messages
24
Location
Loomis Ca
I would go with the stock pinion to start then play around with a couple that are 1 to 2 teeth smaller then go the same bigger,wil give you a good selection for track and bashing
 

FrancisDM

Member
Messages
7
Decided to stick with the stock pinion which is 16t and not 17t as stated in the specs. Here it is with a dumborc receiver and goolrc combo. The metal tranny arrived and will install it once the plastic gives out. Thanks for the help 20200623_192630.jpg
 

Steve g

Well-Known Member
Messages
270
Location
Massachusetts
That adapter you have for the xt60 to deans, isn't ideal. It'll work ok for a while, maybe even aslong as a battery connector would last, but its another possible failure point. I would recommend eventually to solder on a new connector on your esc. Get the Amass brand xt60s, they are the proper brand, and not some cheap chinese knock off. Suppose you could have the LHS do it once they go back to doing repairs, but honestly soldering is one of those things you should eventually learn. It'll come in quite handy in the rc world.
Another good thing to have is one of those hand held IR thermometer. Good idea to monitor motor temps. Don't want the motor to go much over 160 degrees farenheit. Even the cheapo ones seem to be pretty accurate. I have a cheap one, and a nice expensive fluke one I use for work, and they both read pretty close to the same temp, close enough for rc electronics.
Keep an eye on the wheel nuts (mainly the rear), check them every other run or so. They tend to back themselves off a little, and then strip out the hexes.
Get yourself a new bearing kit (rubber seals, not the metal sheilds), and check all your bearings when you do the metal transmission gears. Its a good idea to have extra wheel bearings on hand, so you can change them the day you need to, not days later after ordering them after you discover you need them. I take the rubber seal off with a razor blade and pack in marine grease, and put the seal back on. It does add more resistance, but they last longer. Wouldn't do that if you are racing, but general bashing is fine.
Just a few pointers, I could keep rambling on, but it's start.
 

slick2500

Well-Known Member
Messages
205
Location
Rapid City SD
That adapter you have for the xt60 to deans, isn't ideal. It'll work ok for a while, maybe even aslong as a battery connector would last, but its another possible failure point. I would recommend eventually to solder on a new connector on your esc. Get the Amass brand xt60s, they are the proper brand, and not some cheap chinese knock off. Suppose you could have the LHS do it once they go back to doing repairs, but honestly soldering is one of those things you should eventually learn. It'll come in quite handy in the rc world.
Another good thing to have is one of those hand held IR thermometer. Good idea to monitor motor temps. Don't want the motor to go much over 160 degrees farenheit. Even the cheapo ones seem to be pretty accurate. I have a cheap one, and a nice expensive fluke one I use for work, and they both read pretty close to the same temp, close enough for rc electronics.
Keep an eye on the wheel nuts (mainly the rear), check them every other run or so. They tend to back themselves off a little, and then strip out the hexes.
Get yourself a new bearing kit (rubber seals, not the metal sheilds), and check all your bearings when you do the metal transmission gears. Its a good idea to have extra wheel bearings on hand, so you can change them the day you need to, not days later after ordering them after you discover you need them. I take the rubber seal off with a razor blade and pack in marine grease, and put the seal back on. It does add more resistance, but they last longer. Wouldn't do that if you are racing, but general bashing is fine.
Just a few pointers, I could keep rambling on, but it's start.
Yeah the Chinese knock off XT connectors suck.
You would cringe to know that I still run the stock bearings in my 1/10 Ecx Ruckus that I bought in August of 2015.
 

FrancisDM

Member
Messages
7
That adapter you have for the xt60 to deans, isn't ideal. It'll work ok for a while, maybe even aslong as a battery connector would last, but its another possible failure point. I would recommend eventually to solder on a new connector on your esc. Get the Amass brand xt60s, they are the proper brand, and not some cheap chinese knock off. Suppose you could have the LHS do it once they go back to doing repairs, but honestly soldering is one of those things you should eventually learn. It'll come in quite handy in the rc world.
Another good thing to have is one of those hand held IR thermometer. Good idea to monitor motor temps. Don't want the motor to go much over 160 degrees farenheit. Even the cheapo ones seem to be pretty accurate. I have a cheap one, and a nice expensive fluke one I use for work, and they both read pretty close to the same temp, close enough for rc electronics.
Keep an eye on the wheel nuts (mainly the rear), check them every other run or so. They tend to back themselves off a little, and then strip out the hexes.
Get yourself a new bearing kit (rubber seals, not the metal sheilds), and check all your bearings when you do the metal transmission gears. Its a good idea to have extra wheel bearings on hand, so you can change them the day you need to, not days later after ordering them after you discover you need them. I take the rubber seal off with a razor blade and pack in marine grease, and put the seal back on. It does add more resistance, but they last longer. Wouldn't do that if you are racing, but general bashing is fine.
Just a few pointers, I could keep rambling on, but it's start.
Thank you Steve , these are great tips and will replace the connectors with amass. I have the amass for my ec3 to xt60 and the quality is way better. The online seller said that the one i ordered for deans to xt60 is heavy duty. Haha. This forum has been a great help with helpful people 👌😃
 

Lephturn

Well-Known Member
Messages
51
I cut all my connectors off and replaced with Amass xt60 improved with the collars on them. Now everything plugs into everything else.

Definitely get an IR thermometer.
 
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