High-torque metal gear servo

Rogue_rc

New Member
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2
Hello,

One newbie question. When upgrading to a high-torque metal gear servo, should I also install a servo-saver eliminator, such as RPM's 73492?

Thank you in advance
 
I would. The difference in steering performance is quite big, especially on rougher ground. When I ran my stock amp on the lawn at speed, the front wheels would lose contact with the ground all the time, and when they touched back down the steering would straighten out no matter how much lock I had applied. The servo saver just opens under the force of the tires and ruins the turning radius.
 
It's usually smart to have a weak spot in there somewhere. Also, it's always nice to get rid of the slop caused by the servo saver. Many will do the eliminator with a metal geared servo and a plastic servo arm. That way if it takes a hit it will jump teeth on the servo arm instead of damaging your servo.
 
I race. Indoors, on thin carpet or astro over concrete. Completely unforgiving environment compared to outside in the dirt. I use metal gear servos without any sort of "servo saver" (and use the RPM "servo saver eliminator" on my Stadium Truck). I run plastic servo horns and ball-and cup steering links (and camber links, except for the ST) as the energy-absorbing components in the steering systems. I've had many many high-speed crashes and have not suffered any damage to the servos. Just one stripped servo horn and a few popped ball-and-cup links.
 
Just put a HS-625MG and rpm servo saver eliminater in mine. The difference in control is night and day. Steer clear of the Tower pro MG 996R. I burnt up an entire 4 pack of those and the servo is not exactly quick to replace in the amp.
 

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