I have the strongest steel driveshafts I can find, why are the ends melting?

[Trackstar_Torment]

After the sad day the Torment SCT was discontinued and most aftermarket parts with it, I had to do a lot of searching to find the strongest and most expensive ($55) Hot Racing steel driveshafts on offer. The previous Hot Racing driveshafts I had gotten were the least expensive ones ($33) and the wheel end of one melted, tore apart a bearing, and fused itself onto a piece of that bearing. Now a similar thing is STARTING to happen to one of my extra reinforced driveshafts. I hope to post some pictures, but with me being a somewhat lazy person, not in this post ? I just wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem and if there is something I can do to keep it from becoming like my previous driveshafts. Thanks!

Edit: I should also probably mention that I have a Turnigy Trackstar 13.5t stock class brushless system, the ECX metal gear set, and the stock Pinion/spur setup. Just for some reference ?

 

[Fabio casa]

I bought rc4wd drive shafts much cheaper and super strong I’ve never had an. Issue with them . I found these on an app called AliExpress they have a lot of ecx torment parts on the app. You should take a look if your having trouble finding parts

 

[Steve g]

Did you put the spacer in between the 2 wheel bearings? Do the wheels spin freely? Seems like it could be the wheel hex pushing to hard into the bearing.

 

[Trackstar_Torment]

Oh there's supposed to be a spacer there? I totally missed that! Thank you very much ? So can I still get those, or has it been discontinued like everything else?

 

[Trackstar_Torment]

I bought rc4wd drive shafts much cheaper and super strong I’ve never had an. Issue with them . I found these on an app called AliExpress they have a lot of ecx torment parts on the app. You should take a look if your having trouble finding parts

I would take those into consideration, but I see from the pictures that you have the factory motor. I have no idea how those driveshafts would hold up in the case of a stock class brushless ? but thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Steve g]

I just looked up the newest hot racing shafts, and there is no need for a spacer in between the bearings. The older ones didn't use the hex pin, just a set screw, and relied on the spacer to keep the pressure on the inner race of the bearings from the hex to the inside of the outer driveshaft (if that makes sense). They still sell them on ebay, for 55 dollars like you got. I had the older set, which I broke when I locked up my diff, and have replaced with a steel set for a traxxas slash. The hot racing ones are good, seems most have good luck, i was a little too abusive (3s, 3100kv 4 pole, 2.8 trenchers and no throttle control with a locked diff...)
How are the inside of your hexes looking? Is the little protrusion on the inside that rides against the bearing still there? that's an important part of it, while there should be no pressure between it and the first bearing, while driving the axle does slide a little, while cornering or the suspension cycling, causing slight pressure on either the inner or outer bearing, and without that protrusion it'll rub up against the part of the bearing that isnt spinning, causing heat.
Where is it melting now? Is it the bearing that's heating up?

 

[Trackstar_Torment]

My new ones do use the hex pin. They did not come with the drive hex found in the older dogbone ones that I previously had, just in case all that makes a difference.