Left Rear Axle Locked

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I've had my 2wd Torment for a while, and I recently replaced its stock motor with a brand new brushless one. The first run went well, but when I took it out for a second the next day, I encountered a significant problem. For some odd reason, my left rear axle just decides to completely lock up. It feels rigid and refuses to budge at all, while the right rear axle can still spin when turned by hand, but doesn't feel as smooth as it used to be. If I were to run the motor, the right axle budges a tiny bit but the left one just stays still, immobilizing the car. I also hear an unpleasant, high-pitched grinding sound. Since I'm just an inexperienced guy in this hobby, my best guess is that there is something wrong with the rear differential. I am wondering what could have possibly caused this, and where the problem is. I would also like to know how I could fix this. Thanks in advance!
 

Heyitsme

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Well it's sounds like a diff problem you can go cheap and get another plastic gear set or pony up the dough and get the metal gear set. If I remember right you went with a 3660 motor right? I ran a 3660 motor in my Ruckus for awhile and kept breaking drive shafts steel and plastic plus wore out a metal gear diff. I was running 3s and 2s though but the motor was taking a toll on the whole rear end parts wearing out left and right so I went to a 3650 size motor and break less parts.

It might be something besides the diff but if it was me I would get the metal gear set and look at upgrading the drive shafts because the shafts usually don't last brushless either especially when running bigger power.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into getting a new gear set, and possibly get some new driveshafts too.
 
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Alright so I have the new gears on the way, but I was wondering what I would have to grease them up with. What would guys recommend that's pretty cheap?
 
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Now I have an update for you guys. I have canceled my order, for that I have realized that the locking of the left rear wheel was not due to a fault in the differential. For some very odd reason, the left wheel itself just decided to lock up. I tried to remove it, but it took a very considerable amount of force to pull off. It was really stuck on there. Problem solved, but I wonder why this happened in the first place. Could it be that I over-tightened the wheel, so the plastic separating the wheel to the chassis just simply fused together from heat? I really don't know, I'd like to hear your opinions. Also because the wheel basically locked everything up, my spur gear is just completely destroyed and I'll have to get a new one.
 

Steve g

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Was your wheel nut tight or loose when you took the wheel off? Chances are the wheel hex stripped out in the wheel. Plastic wheel hexes tend to do that, especially if the wheel nut loosens as you're driving. If you did over tighten, your bearings would have been compressed and hard to spin. I ruined 2 plastic hexes even with the nut properly tightened before I got aluminium hexes. Haven't had an issue since. The nylon in the wheel nut doesn't last long, the hold gets weaker every time you take it off and on, so getting new wheel nuts once in a while is a good idea, or you could use green loctite on them.
 

kruzracing169

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Plastic hexes are garbage, especially with a brushless setup. Aluminum all the way. A little, small tiny bit of blue locktite helps too on those wheel nuts staying tight. A small amount, and only blue.

.......Is your driveshaft, shaft where the hex/wheel mounts, rusted? If so, I wonder if your bearings are ceased too. Ball bearings on the rear go out pretty easy. WD40 that beast after a good bashing.
Or if you want to spend it right, CowRC the whole RC.
 
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TacoDaTugBoat

Active Member
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There is a lot of good advice here.

If you want to run brushless and really enjoy it, good diff, axles, and bearings are required. It sounds like you’ve enjoyed the poop out of it so far and need to do some maintenance. And when doing maintenance, it’s slways nice to upgrade.

On 2S, most of the plastic parts can be used (diff and HD axles) but you need to keep the slipper a little loose. But that also robs you of good ol wheelie and hole shot fun.

I opted to use 17mm adapters in place of aluminum 12mm hexes.
Used Hot Racing Axles: SECT288RC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077THC618/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TjGWBbCQR0V3E
ECX metal gear Diff.
I have a 3660 3300kv motor on 2S and the drive line works great.
My next project is the front end. Not sure how it’s gonna go down. But the a arms are sloppy. Might need to get some RPM A arms and or a new front bulkhead. Then some new caster blocks and steel turnbuckles. The things been banged around so much that it has stretched out the stock bits and handles like crap.

By the time I’m done with that it’ll be time for a new body. You see how this goes!
 
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