Lipo Upgrade?

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Mattx73

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Hi I have an ECX Rukus 1:10 my question is to upgrade to lipo.

My ESC stock has a lipo jumper on it but if I buy a battery and charger would I need to consider upgrading anything else. Iam also not sure if the ESC has a low voltage cutout built in?

TIA
 

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I would look up the specs on your particular ESC and see what it can handle via LiPo batteries.
Do you have a budget? How fast do you wanna go? How epic do you want your wheelies to be?

If you absolutely want to go LiPo, I would consider a brushless combo (ESC + Motor) with 2s or 3s LiPo's.
I lean more towards a 3s capable system, I mean it was just a wow factor for me when I stopped wasting money on lower tier combos and 2s packs. I'm not saying 2s is bad per`sae. Its like when you have a old dodge charger and you yank the stock 318 out and slap in a 440 Hemi...... that level of wow. I'm not saying 318's are bad, they have their uses.
 
Hi
Thanks for the info I've only used Nimh batteries before If I switch to Lipo does that ECS have a low voltage failsafe cutout or alarm to prevent the battery compromise or worse fire I'm only concerned as its my 10yr olds sons truck.
 
Hi again If I change for a 35T from a dynamite 15T am I going to see a significant speed drop and will I need to replace the ESC at all?
 
Yes, you will see a speed drop, typically a 15T is faster than a 35T. A 35T is apparently more for rock crawlers. I wouldn't think you would need a new ESC. You should be fine.
But if speed is what you want, I would not swap to a 35T motor.
 
We own two 1/10 ruckus trucks and both brushed motors smoked with just a few run sessions. Opened the motors and found the brushes used up all the brush material and ruined the communtators.We upgraded both with ONYX Brushless motors with speed controllers included from Horizon Hobbies ,stayed with 2S Lipos from amazon . Been working fine with superior power and reliability compared to the BRUSHED JUNK that came stock with the trucks. Good,Luck
 
Mattx73 said:
Hi Does anybody know if the Dynamite E60a will take a brushless motor?
Click to expand...
Well I am not sure, after a quick search there seems to be a brushed version AND a brushless version of that ESC? And just my opinion, at $80+ (for just the ESC) throw another 40 with that and get a good brushless combo. EZrun systems are good.
 
Mattx73 said:
Hi I have an ECX Rukus 1:10 my question is to upgrade to lipo.

My ESC stock has a lipo jumper on it but if I buy a battery and charger would I need to consider upgrading anything else. Iam also not sure if the ESC has a low voltage cutout built in?

TIA
Click to expand...

you can put a 2s lipo in it just by switching the jumper. I did a 50C 5200mah and it dropped right in. you may need to loosen or tighten the two screws on the battery hold down brackets a turn or two. I wouldn't put 3s to a brushed motor. the brushed ESC does NOT have a low voltage cutout or alarm, you will need to add one to protect your new battery. They are ~$10 on amazon. If that is the original body for your Ruckus, you have the brushed 1:10 2wd.

I have the same truck. Here is my thread of stuff I've been through. https://www.ecxforum.com/threads/hi-from-nj.3270/#post-24088

Mattx73 said:
Hi again If I change for a 35T from a dynamite 15T am I going to see a significant speed drop and will I need to replace the ESC at all?
Click to expand...

you will see a huge top speed drop. a 35T makes a ton of torque down low for a crawler, but has a really low max rpm (top speed) by comparison. This isn't a fantastic platform to turn into a crawler if that's your goal I suggest starting from a different base. If you're chasing more top speed, there are a few 550 12T motors available decently priced and you can change the pinion gear. 2S lipo is a nice boost too.

I'm at the point where 2s lipo/brushless esc/brushless motor is the next logical upgrade, I keep overheating and grenading brushed motors. If I didn't have them sitting around free I would have made the jump already. from the experience I've read from other people, 3s brushless just destroys components left and right and even the metal geared transmission can't keep up.
 
Just one more thing I have a long standing problem with reverse on the handheld controller it is very temporamental and when pushing the trigger forward doesn't seem to work very well has anybody encountered the same with these 1:10 rukus?
 
Mattx73 said:
Just one more thing I have a long standing problem with reverse on the handheld controller it is very temporamental and when pushing the trigger forward doesn't seem to work very well has anybody encountered the same with these 1:10 rukus?
Click to expand...

I have, but I'm not using the original radio or the original ESC, so I never really thought too much about it. The times I need reverse, I'm not really in a rush it's usually because I painted myself into a corner driving and just need to get out of a jam. I would describe my issue as a significant delay between the time I command the radio for reverse and the time it takes the car to actually move, as well as the reverse feature being very "twitchy" as in very little radio input gives a ton of car output. That could certainly be my infrequent use of driving, and who knows the delay might be some sort of built in safety so that I'm not doing 35mph across open ground and suddenly throw it into reverse.
 
"Most" ESC's have some sort of delay from forward to reverse, and yes if you want to look at it in that way, it is somewhat of a safety thing, safety for the gearbox I would imagine.
Some systems you can change the delay time, or turn it off completely. But not many, or that would be a short list anyway. Typically once the ESC sees neutral you have a 1 second delay timer before reverse is active. But if you just slam it into reverse the reverse timer resets. Some ESC's require a full stop before reverse is active.
It is kind of annoying, but I dont use reverse that much to care if it can be turned off or changed.
 
WithinU said:
"Most" ESC's have some sort of delay from forward to reverse, and yes if you want to look at it in that way, it is somewhat of a safety thing, safety for the gearbox I would imagine.
Some systems you can change the delay time, or turn it off completely. But not many, or that would be a short list anyway. Typically once the ESC sees neutral you have a 1 second delay timer before reverse is active. But if you just slam it into reverse the reverse timer resets. Some ESC's require a full stop before reverse is active.
It is kind of annoying, but I dont use reverse that much to care if it can be turned off or changed.
Click to expand...

That makes a lot of sense and is pretty smart. I looked up my manual for it, after programming it the first couple times I've "set it and forget it." It does have a lipo low voltage cutout, but no alarm, which explains why I decided to leave the alarm on when I swapped to this ESC (for others reading to be clear this is a hobbywing 880 dual brushed esc that I'm running one motor on, not the stock ESC. I had it sitting around and a programming card).

the first programmable item is running mode. 1) forward with brake (race). pressing reverse on radio activates brake. 2) forward/reverse with brake. pressing reverse on radio first time activates brake. pressing second time activates reverse. ESC must sense complete motor stop to activate reverse. 3) forward and reverse. no brake, reverse will engage without looking at motor speed. for rock crawlers.

pretty neat
 

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