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Motor help


New Member
Hi all, any help greatly appreciated.
I've been running my stock Torment on mainly 2s and sometimes 3s batteries (the SC claims it's good for both) but today something caused the diff to jam and the standard brushes motor started to smell.
Presumably that was the coating on the windings burning off?
Is that now the end of the motor?
If I was to swap to a brushless system and went for a 3s set up could I still use my 2s batteries safely?
If so any brushless recommendations for a casual budget basher?

Many thanks again for any advice


Well-Known Member
Stock esc may be rated for 3s doesn't mean you can use any motor on 3s with it. Also, it doesn't mean any motor can take running 3s with that esc. When you increase voltage you increase heat as the motor is spinning faster. Increase pinion or increase voltage you should always monitor how hot everything gets, everything has its limits. If you do not have one I would highly suggest getting a temp gun to measure how hot each component is getting. Heat is the indicator when something is being pushed beyond its limit and on the brink of failure.

Swapping to a brushless setup would be better and more power efficient.

Budget bashing could just get something like a Goolrc brushless combo but the reliability of the escs is hit and miss. If you know how to solder a Hobbywing esc and a cheap Goolrc, Surpass, Racerstar etc. motor could be a good combo.

Realize with more power comes the chance for more broken parts and drivetrain parts breaking or stripping. So the ECX9001 metal diff set and the cost of upgraded driveshafts should be factored in.


New Member
Fantastic, that's a great help, thanks very much.

Is it likely the current motor is FUBAR?


Well-Known Member
Land of Oz
Good advice above.
I personally would want to make sure if the diff is actually jammed up or if the brushed motor locked up.
There are several reasons that could have happened.

Then the next step, depending on what you discover, is to go for 3s rated ESC and motor, the 2s packs should work fine with them.


Well-Known Member
...Budget bashing could just get something like a Goolrc brushless combo but the reliability of the escs is hit and miss. If you know how to solder a Hobbywing esc and a cheap Goolrc, Surpass, Racerstar etc. motor could be a good combo...
That is a very good point you bring up and is what I have found to be so true over the years. Buying a great speed control up front will usually save me money (and headaches) over time.

Like it was said, "hit and miss". Sometimes a person will find a gem, and other times the super low budget ESCs fail repeatedly in short use. Sometimes it's user error, and other times the electronics have specs that are way overrated.

I love to use low budget sensored, and sensorless brushless motors. I don't think I've ever had a dud. But, for me, the cheap motors always blow bearings super fast. After replacing the motor bearings, the durability of the motors jumps up greatly. Pick the right size/kv motor for your needs, gear it correctly...good to go. Let 'er rip!


New Member
Thanks for the advice above... a bit more info...

As it happens I bought a 2nd hand torment for my son so I've been able to check things against his and this is what I've found:

My motor is definitely fried- I tried my ESC on his motor and it's fine, I tried my motor on his ESC and there's no go at all.

My ESC is 'supposed' to be ok with 3s batteries I just think the motor wasn't up to it and gave up.

I have a question though, If I'm going to replace it with another brushed motor what motor would you suggest can handle 3s? If there's nothing recommended that's not too much of an issue, I'll get another 540 15T and stick with 2S for now.

I do have another question as well; comparing the two diffs in both trucks, my sons diff is a LOT free-er and the wheels counter spin really easily, mine however is really quite stiff and if I spin one wheel by hand, the other wheel doesn't always counterspin... quite often it turns the same way... is it worth replacing the diff with a metal gear set or worth opening it up to see what's causing the stiffness? ... Or are they normally fairly stiff?

Thanks again everyone for your help so far :)

(Edit: I've just looke dup the spec for the dead motor "Voltage: 4.8 - 9.6V" ...That'll be the burnt out motor query answered then :LOL: oops
Still would like any advice on the diff though)
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