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Need Advice: Drive Shafts, Hex Conversion, Wheels

GrymReaper

Member
Messages
7
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.

Thanks again for your help,
Grym
 

rendnb

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.

Thanks again for your help,
Grym
Hey Grym!

I have the SECT288X06 Hot Racing drive shafts. I never tried the SECT288M06's but judging from what my local shop told me, he can't get the M06's anymore and just gets the X06's. They are built really well, and hold up nicely. They are like the ECX stock driveshafts as far as design goes, but they're made of steel when makes them awesome. So, if you're looking into the SECT288X06 driveshafts, go for it.

The nice thing with those drive shafts is they come with aluminum hexes for the rear wheels so you don't have to buy additional hexes. The hexes are held onto the axle with set screws which is really nice. The axles have 2 flat sides to them, which allow the set screws to "grab" the axles. Just put some loctite on them and you're good.

As far as your questions...
Set Screws to hold the driveshafts in place... where are they? (paraphrased obviously lol)
When I got those driveshafts, the didn't come with set screws. I just used the long "set screw" that held the stock drive shafts to the transmission out shafts. Here is a link to what I'm talking about . You'll just have to make sure the holes line up with the transmission and driveshafts and all will work fine. Slap some loctite on the threads before you tighten them down. I like the long driveshaft screws vs set screws for securing the drive shafts to the transmission out shafts. More reliable obviously.

Do you need aluminum hexes or upgrade to 17mm hexes?
I haven't thought about upgrading to 17mm hexes. I've heard of it being done, and people dropping 17mm hex tires on the Ruckus. Makes it look bad ass, but not sure if its necessary. As long as you have enough power to turn those things you'll be fine. I'm still on the 12mm hexes myself. However, if you get the drive shafts, you'll already get a set of aluminum hexes for the rear tires as they come with the drive shafts. You'll have to get a set of aluminum hexes for the fronts. Its more important to have them on the back, but I'd just replace all the hexes with aluminum as those won't strip out your wheels.

I have those SECT288X06 driveshafts, used the long driveshaft screws, and the hexes, and all my problems on my driveshafts and wheels disappeared for the time being. Performance also perked up a bit as the shafts seem to transmit more power to the wheels from the transmission. I was getting a little loss with the MIP CVD's I had on there before; but they weren't designed for the Ruckus.

At any rate hope that all helps. Bottom line, go for the SECT288x06.
 

GrymReaper

Member
Messages
7
Thanks for the reply, I am in contact with the Amazon vendor/seller and once he recieves the M06s, he should just send out the X06 as the difference in price was the shipping cost.

As a RC noob, what do you mean by Loctite....we talking crazy glue or that expensive thread locker stuff they sell?
 

rendnb

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
What X said. Its thread locker; just get a little tube of the blue stuff and it should last you awhile, depending on how much you rebuild your RC.

You typically want to use loctite in metal to metal applications, like if you're putting a screwing in a set screw into an aluminum part, you'll want to use loctite or the screw will back out eventually. If you're putting a metal screw into a plastic part... no need for loctite there.
 

X

Conspiracy of One
Staff member
Supporting Member
Messages
1,145
If you're putting a metal screw into a plastic part... no need for loctite there.
To add to what @rendnb said, it's usually a bad idea to use thread locker in plastic. It can damage the plastic.
 

rendnb

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
To add to what @rendnb said, it's usually a bad idea to use thread locker in plastic. It can damage the plastic.
Ha! I did not know that. Probably weakens it or heats it up to a point that makes it melt... Hmmm science experiment time in the garage!

Yes sir that is perfect! Same stuff I use. If you really want to get the screws to stay in there, they make a red compound that's more permanent. The blue stuff though you can remove easily if you need to. I usually keep a tube of that in my RC toolbox, along with some super glue, and E-6000 adhesive. Now, if I can just get myself to put the damn cap back on my super glue when I'm done with it, I won't buy a new tube every single time I need some haha!
 

BOIII

Member
Messages
17
The ECX ruckus uses 3.8 wheels which are considiered 1/8 most of the time???? and so most aftermarket wheels will have 17mm hex. This is why you hear about people doing the conversion. If you google 12 to 17mm hex adapter you should be able to find some for <10$$
 

MTLOVER01

Member
Messages
5
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.

Thanks again for your help,
Grym
http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288RC;c=685

Hot Racing has a new model and it looks good.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Batone76

Well-Known Member
Messages
136
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.

Thanks again for your help,
Grym
I iii
Hi again everyone, thanks for all the PMs and replies on my previous post. Hoping to get some additional help again.

OK so I have the brushless Ruckus 2WD (http://www.ecxrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ECX03014)

I purchased the Hot Racing Steel Drive Shafts SECT288M06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288M06;c=684), and I believe that they were defective. The blue piece (not sure what that is called) that has the HR Logo separated after about 5 minutes of use and then would no longer spin the wheels. That return is in process and I am on the hunt for a new set of driveshafts. I was thinking of going with the SECT288X06 (http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288X06;c=684) as they seem to be built better.

My first question about these drive shafts are that there is no set screw that holds them into place like the stock ones (https://www.horizonhobby.com/cars-and-trucks/all-surface-parts/long-driveshaft-set--complete-hd-(2):-1-10-2wd-circuit--ruckus--torment-ecx232000). Is this an issue or just making sure the wheels are tight will do the trick?

This brings me to my 2nd issue. I did not realize that my nylon locknut was wearing out and after the Ruckus stopped moving, I realized that the RR wheel became loose. I tightened it and things were fine for about 5 more minutes. Then the inside of the tire, where the hex goes into had freely spun and stripped the inside of the hub. Could the lack of that set screw be an issue? The reason I ask this is because I hear a lot of people doing a conversion from 12mm to 17mm, but I have no clue where to being with that, or if it is even necessary.
I bought some from ebay the part is SLA018 they're metal i just had to grind down the end of the screw since it was a little too long.i had the hot racing ones and had problems with them too. You can email them to see if you can return them or get a replacement part.
Thanks again for your help,
Grym
 

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MTLOVER01

Member
Messages
5
Re:sect288x06 axles issues that are reported by some. I've had them for some time now and just put them through 2 packs in 5" high grass with no issue. Since they come without a manual and some parts with unclear purpose I'm thinking it must be an installation problem.
 

rendnb

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Re:sect288x06 axles issues that are reported by some. I've had them for some time now and just put them through 2 packs in 5" high grass with no issue. Since they come without a manual and some parts with unclear purpose I'm thinking it must be an installation problem.
No they don't lol. Gotta love it. Ironically, the "instructions" are on the product page of the hot racing site. Basically you sandwich the washer between the bearings IN the rear axle carriers. Keep the inner bearing in place, and pop out the outer bearing. Put the axle through, slide the washer onto the axle and push it into the carrier, then reinstall the outer bearing.

Pop on your hexes, and done. The washer doesn't seem like it does too much but it helps out quite a bit with slop and giving extra strength to that area.
 

Jerry-Rigged

Well-Known Member
Messages
91
Location
Houston area, Texas
Piling on to this topic -

Has anyone used the SECT288? - http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=685

This would be for a Torment, but I think the rear end is the same for Torment and Ruckus...

Also, the included hex - it is steel or plastic? Looks like plastic in the pic. I do see they sell steel ones for another $13.

Edit - now I see where it says "steel Hex" Gotta read the whole page... LOL
 

rendnb

Well-Known Member
Messages
87
Piling on to this topic -

Has anyone used the SECT288? - http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SECT288;c=685

This would be for a Torment, but I think the rear end is the same for Torment and Ruckus...

Also, the included hex - it is steel or plastic? Looks like plastic in the pic. I do see they sell steel ones for another $13.

Edit - now I see where it says "steel Hex" Gotta read the whole page... LOL
Nah they come with steel or aluminum hexes.. they work nicely actually.
 

Jeb

Well-Known Member
Messages
337
Location
West Glover, VT
IMG_3791.JPG IMG_3792.JPG I'm using them on my Amp. The drive cups do wear quickly with a brushless motor, but they function fine and haven't broken. I also tried the enclosed cv version. It's highly unballanced and causes the transmission to vibrate weirdly. I put them on my son's Amp and nothing bad has happened and he's a terror on his buggy.
 
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