New esc, now no reverse

Gschimma

Active Member
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Hi, just replaced the esc on ruckus ruckus 1/10 because it would smoke when the battery was connected. The new esc does not smoke and works great forward but does not go in reverse. The esc flashes red when the trigger switches from forward to reverse. Thoughts?
 
Did you make sure the jumper on the top of the ESC is in the proper location. One of the jumpers is for battery (lipo vs NiMH) and the other I think is for deciding if you want Reverse. Also could be a programming thing from your transmitter and maybe worth reteaching that.
 
yes, the jumper is in the correct place. Not sure how to reprogram the transmitter
 
Sure enough, jumper location. Now, curiously the truck with the new esc is significantly slower than the other truck. Is there some programming that needs to be done?
 
Make sure your throttle trim is set in the proper place. Chances are, since its a brushed motor, the motor is probably on its way out. They dont last long. Pull the pinion off, and hook your battery directly to the motor. If it doesn't spin any faster then when you give it full throttle, then there isn't any thing you can do. If it does spin noticeably faster, then see if you can recalibrate the esc. But since the esc previously fried, I bet the motor overheated aswell and lost some of its magnetism, causing less power and speed.
 
Great idea, thanks. Tried that on my both of the trucks. Not much difference on the weak truck, maybe a little faster on the stronger truck. Maybe I’ll just get a couple new motors. Is it easy to go brushless or does that involve other modifications? The trucks are for my boys and of course one can’t be faster than the other.
 
Great idea, thanks. Tried that on my both of the trucks. Not much difference on the weak truck, maybe a little faster on the stronger truck. Maybe I’ll just get a couple new motors. Is it easy to go brushless or does that involve other modifications? The trucks are for my boys and of course one can’t be faster than the other.

It's easy to go brushless but with more power comes the chance of breaking driveshafts and shredding the plastic teeth on the gears inside the gearbox.

If you go brushless get a 3650 can size motor between 2700-3100kv and use a bigger pinion you feel the speed is too slow. You can go higher in kv and size of motor but with the stock plastic teeth gears I wouldn't look at putting to much power in unless you get the metal gear set. I would have a ECX9001 metal diff set on hand in case you shred the plastic teeth on the stock plastic gears.

The cost will be greater going brushless but you will have better motor dependability, more efficient battery usage and of course can have faster speeds. If you have not already I would consider using lipo batteries if you go brushless you can get a 2s lipo around $20. The costs start to add up depends on how much your willing to invest in these which way you should go stay brushed or go brushless.

If you stick with brushed I would look at a 12t 550 size motor instead of the stock 15t 540 can one.
 
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Thanks for the thoughts. I have these lipo batteries. What is the usual life of these batteries? I have a numbers that won’t charge (charger flashes) and it seems a little early. Recommend a different battery or is this expected? Thanks
 

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Thanks for the thoughts. I have these lipo batteries. What is the usual life of these batteries? I have a numbers that won’t charge (charger flashes) and it seems a little early. Recommend a different battery or is this expected? Thanks
i have one of those 20c style reaction ones i havent had an issue with the battery itself per se but it is underpowered in power output and drains in like 15 mins going through medium grasss and concrete on stock 17/87 gears
 

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