Racing prep?

Jon0822

Active Member
Messages
28
I got my Torment I picked up over the weekend for $10 at a yard sale cleaned up and driveable, and was interested in participating in my local tracks novice/rookie class soon. But I’m not really sure how to prepare as far as supplies and such, I only have one battery an 8.4v 3300 mah Nimh speed-pack. On a full charge it can more than handle the 6 minute run lengths but with practice qualifying and the race each being 6 minutes with a couple hours time in between each phase I’m worried one battery won’t last the whole day. The ESC in the truck has also lost its reverse ability (I checked all programming online and made sure it actually didn’t have reverse anymore and I wasn’t just being stupid) would that be an issue? I appreciate any and all help and advice
 
I would pick up another dynamite pack or two if you want to compete.

The reverse function may be due to the trims for adjusting fwd and reverse.
 
Personally, a battery that you only get 6 minutes of run time is not ideal. Races are usually 5 minutes plus mains could be a little longer. I would invest into an lipo. You don't need much......20C 2S 4000 mAh battery Max for your stock electronics. You can even get away with like 2200mah if needed. Look at Zippys, super in expensive.
Also, downfall of Nimh batteries, you have like optimum performance for the first 3 minutes, then falls off a cliff. LIPOs stay, platue per se', then fall off the last few seconds. Your going to want constant power throughout your race, consistant results of performance.
With your ESC, if you have no reverse, your fine. There is marshalling, they will put you on.
I would advise to show up to an open practice at your local track. Work out the bugs. Don't just take a truck you got and don't know how it is going to perform. You will pay for the race, and if you break down, your out that money invested.

Good luck and have fun. Don't go because you feel your not ready. No one is ever 100% their first time. Get out and have fun.
 
I would advise to show up to an open practice at your local track. Work out the bugs. Don't just take a truck you got and don't know how it is going to perform.

Good advice, plus it is curtisy to the other drivers and the track. To not go in blindly.

I would also switch to LiPo, just for the performance factor. But if your doing it on the cheap and are there JUST to have fun, then Have Fun.
Also make sure you talk to the other drivers, there is a lot of very valuable information there for the picking, especially for your track, conditions and setup.
 
YES, ask questions, pay attention. An RC racer will share some basic setup. Outdoor activities are a dieing breed. Gaming is taking over, and it sucks.
 
YES, ask questions, pay attention. An RC racer will share some basic setup. Outdoor activities are a dieing breed. Gaming is taking over, and it sucks.
Thanks for all the tips I’ll be sure to ask the local racers and check the tracks page for help too. Just need a lipo now. Ain’t that the truth. Yesterday at the park I took both my Amp and Torment just to mess around and see how the torment did after it’s revival, at least 6 kids came up saying how cool it was and one asked to drive it. Being a work In progress and with the throttle limiter the spektrum stx2 has I let him take the ‘wheel’. I think he became addicted to hobby grade rc after the 10 minutes of play
 
Or anything Traxxas, rear slash is a nice offset too. Just know the front is a different offset on the slash.

Yes, you need to know dirt condition at track you run at. All tracks are different.

2wd.....

Tires, suspension, and finger action is everything.

Just know that the bigger the motor your going to win. Not true!

Maintain momentum, don't punch it. The less the rear wheels spin out, better control.
You do not punch it at the face of jump, light punch further back. Finger off trigger in air, unless you want front end to rise.
(Dont whiskey throttle). Brake will porch it down in air.
Like throttle management, finger work is key to this hobby on the track.
Backyard or road bashing is pin it to win it.

Faster to keep moving forward, get a feel for the track, keep the wheels rubber side down. Then ride hard, crash, marshall picks you up, then hard again, crash, marshal.... It's a vicious cycle.
 
Or anything Traxxas, rear slash is a nice offset too. Just know the front is a different offset on the slash.

Yes, you need to know dirt condition at track you run at. All tracks are different.

2wd.....

Tires, suspension, and finger action is everything.

Just know that the bigger the motor your going to win. Not true!

Maintain momentum, don't punch it. The less the rear wheels spin out, better control.
You do not punch it at the face of jump, light punch further back. Finger off trigger in air, unless you want front end to rise.
(Dont whiskey throttle). Brake will porch it down in air.
Like throttle management, finger work is key to this hobby on the track.
Backyard or road bashing is pin it to win it.

Faster to keep moving forward, get a feel for the track, keep the wheels rubber side down. Then ride hard, crash, marshall picks you up, then hard again, crash, marshal.... It's a vicious cycle.
It seems patience is key especially since I don’t have any track time
 
I know it's may be easier said then done.

When racing, you have the line, the ones coming up behind you, ARE watching you.
Pick a line and try to stay there, if your running the high line, try to stay high, make them go low. If your running the low line, make them take the high line. Ect…. But for god's sake don't do the Z line, pick one and stay there. Also if the ones coming up on you are clearly faster, let them do the work and get around you, but don't race them, hold your line and let them go. OMG I am getting excited for you....?(y)
 
The torment was my very first hobby grade RC truck. Got it 6 years ago. Took it to my local track with some track appropriate tires and had a blast. I ended up putting 30g of lead weight in the front of the truck to help with steering. It has a very rear-biased weight problem. Also, because of its high center of gravity it wanted to tip in the corners. I would have to take the corners a little slower as to not tip over.

I also found that if there was any type of Breeze or wind it turned into a parachute on the jumps. Even by tapping the brake to bring the nose down a lot of times didn't help because the truck is so light in weight. I ended up just rolling over or driving over the jumps instead of actually jumping them, but I got around the track much quicker that way. Ultimately, I ended up cutting out the four circular looking fans on the back of the truck to let some air flow through the truck so it didn't parachute so much. This helped a lot. Once I trashed the stock body, I got a ProLine high-flow body. This helped the torment to drive and handle so much better believe it or not.

I hope this helps. Have fun! Racing is a blast!!
 
The torment was my very first hobby grade RC truck. Got it 6 years ago. Took it to my local track with some track appropriate tires and had a blast. I ended up putting 30g of lead weight in the front of the truck to help with steering. It has a very rear-biased weight problem. Also, because of its high center of gravity it wanted to tip in the corners. I would have to take the corners a little slower as to not tip over.

I also found that if there was any type of Breeze or wind it turned into a parachute on the jumps. Even by tapping the brake to bring the nose down a lot of times didn't help because the truck is so light in weight. I ended up just rolling over or driving over the jumps instead of actually jumping them, but I got around the track much quicker that way. Ultimately, I ended up cutting out the four circular looking fans on the back of the truck to let some air flow through the truck so it didn't parachute so much. This helped a lot. Once I trashed the stock body, I got a ProLine high-flow body. This helped the torment to drive and handle so much better believe it or not.

I hope this helps. Have fun! Racing is a blast!!
Y’all have helped a bunch, I’m stoked to get the parts I need and get to the track and start practicing, I’ll be sure to document my first race event so you guys can see the rewards of your advice. Can’t wait to get on track!
 
A couple of follow-on notes about batteries: You CAN race with NiMh packs but you'll want one for each heat/race, plus practice. You'd need a capacity of at least 4500mAh to provide proper run-time for a typical 5-6 min heat/race. Why? NiMh batteries get HOT with use, especially in races where you are going full-throttle many times with no breaks or stops.

However, if you price 3-4 NiMh packs you'll probably faint.

LiPos have the clear advantage in these situations. I race a buggy and truck (stadium truck) with a 4600mAh shorty LiPo pack. I only have one in each car and I never take them out (only for repairs, maintenance). LiPos do not heat up like Nickel-type batteries. Immediately after each heat (5 mins), i take my car, put it on the stand, and plug the battery into the charger and set it to balance charge. Can't do that with a NiMh battery-- you have to wait too long for them to cool down.

Side note: when I was racing back in the late 1980's, when NiCd batteries were the only battery technology, available a common "trick" was to charge batteries in a cooler with an ice pack. Put them in a cool environment right away to cool them down ASAP and charge them that way. That qualified as abuse and doubtless shortened many a batterie's lifespan! :D I know I had a couple packs that vented cells. The batteries would get really hot! I love Lipos-- technology is awesome.
 
A couple of follow-on notes about batteries: You CAN race with NiMh packs but you'll want one for each heat/race, plus practice. You'd need a capacity of at least 4500mAh to provide proper run-time for a typical 5-6 min heat/race. Why? NiMh batteries get HOT with use, especially in races where you are going full-throttle many times with no breaks or stops.

However, if you price 3-4 NiMh packs you'll probably faint.

LiPos have the clear advantage in these situations. I race a buggy and truck (stadium truck) with a 4600mAh shorty LiPo pack. I only have one in each car and I never take them out (only for repairs, maintenance). LiPos do not heat up like Nickel-type batteries. Immediately after each heat (5 mins), i take my car, put it on the stand, and plug the battery into the charger and set it to balance charge. Can't do that with a NiMh battery-- you have to wait too long for them to cool down.

Side note: when I was racing back in the late 1980's, when NiCd batteries were the only battery technology, available a common "trick" was to charge batteries in a cooler with an ice pack. Put them in a cool environment right away to cool them down ASAP and charge them that way. That qualified as abuse and doubtless shortened many a batterie's lifespan! :D I know I had a couple packs that vented cells. The batteries would get really hot! I love Lipos-- technology is awesome.
Have you heard anything on the floureon lipos to start out with? They seem promising
 
Have you heard anything on the floureon lipos to start out with? They seem promising

I have have/had a few 5200mah 2s Floureons for a few years with no problems running 3660 brushless motors also for your use with a brushed motor should be fine. Is something like SMC better yes but for the price the Floureons work well for me. I don't race just bash if that means anything though.
 
I don't have any specific experience with the Floureon brand. I will say this, though: while you're still new to this hobby I HIGHLY recommend that you buy products from businesses that will be able to offer timely support. Horizon Hobby is more or less famous for their excellent customer support. Other brands like HiTec, Venom, Traxxas, etc also offer great support after the sale. Maybe Floureon has great service-- I suppose if you buy from Amazon and need to return it, Amazon makes it easy to do so.
 
I don't have any specific experience with the Floureon brand. I will say this, though: while you're still new to this hobby I HIGHLY recommend that you buy products from businesses that will be able to offer timely support. Horizon Hobby is more or less famous for their excellent customer support. Other brands like HiTec, Venom, Traxxas, etc also offer great support after the sale. Maybe Floureon has great service-- I suppose if you buy from Amazon and need to return it, Amazon makes it easy to do so.
This is a great point! I would personally pay a few extra bucks for a product for great customer service
 
SMC batteries have been a flop for many at the tracks around here.

HRBs have been solid and cheap price.

I have been running Turnigy 2S, shorties in my buggy and torment. I am pushing as much weight forward as possible.
I am running weights up front also, along with Jconcepts Hiflo body.
Good set of shocks would be Traxxas Ultras, with LOSI springs. I did an write up in my Torment build. ALL what I have installed. I need to update a little bit of info.
Parachuting has been limited by adding Lexan flat cutouts over there sides of chassis. You can see my updated photo below.

inCollage_20190516_181939693.jpg

I will be running the HRBs in my 1/8ths. One day I might run GenAces. $$$$
 
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