Razor RC AMP MT

If you’re tired of the wheel hexes falling off every time you remove a wheel, Traxxas Rustler/Slash rear wheel hexes fit perfectly and stay captured. Part 1654 and make sure you get a set of the Teflon shims too, else the drive pin will rub against the bearing.
 
A 3660 3200kv motor would rip stock driveshafts and plastic diffs. A 15t 540 motor on stock nimh batteries with the stock 2 in 1 esc/rx is about all you can get stock which should be a little more fun than the stock 20t.

Thanks. I'm going to try to run it with stock transmission and plastic driveshafts, so this helps a lot.
 
Something I noticed is that the slipper is set SUPER tight. I backed it almost all the way off to the end and it's still too tight. I have a feeling most people are stripping gears as a result.
 
Something I noticed is that the slipper is set SUPER tight. I backed it almost all the way off to the end and it's still too tight. I have a feeling most people are stripping gears as a result.
How do you check your slippers on whether they are too loose, too tight, or just right? What is the best way for someone to check they're slipper clutch?
 
How do you check your slippers on whether they are too loose, too tight, or just right? What is the best way for someone to check they're slipper clutch?

Sounds like an idea for a video! I don't like most of the videos on YouTube about this, this part at 7:27 is the best way IMO:


You should be able to roll it backwards, go full throttle, and have it slip for a split second before it catches and goes forward. Any type of high traction surface works well (street, asphalt, etc.)
 
I think some concerns about more powerful motors immediately trashing the stock geartrain are a little overblown. I raced my Circuit with a 13.5T brushless motor, plastic transmission gears, stock plastic drive shafts, and a PLASTIC PINION gear on indoor carpet with ZERO problems or breakages. Spur and pinion were stock 48 pitch. Final gearing was 76-78 26-28 (spur/pinion). That said, a 10.5T or lower motor would probably reduce the lifespan of plastic components, especially on high-grip surfaces.

As for adjusting the slipper: another technique is to place your car on a table/workbench, grab one rear tire with one hand, and with the other hand holding the transmitter, mash the butt of the transmitter on the other rear tire. Then punch the throttle for a moment (do not lean close to the car!) If the car wheelies up off the table-- too tight. If the slipper just buzzes and the front end doesn't move-- too loose. If the front end just barely lifts off the table surface-- just right.
 
I think most people are not setting the slipper properly and that's why they're stripping gears/driveshafts when they put in a more powerful motor.

Most of the videos explain how to set the slipper via the wheelie method, but personally I don't recommend it because it depends on so many things. Wheelbase length, rear vs. mid-motor, how powerful of a motor you use, what type of wheels/tires you use (weight), buggy vs. short course vs. stadium truck... those will affect how easily it lifts the front wheels or if it's even able to.
 
Will you have any track running video of this truck?

Possible, but not anytime soon. Got a bazillion projects right now that are higher priority -- B74 testing and review, I'm way behind on my Arrma Kraton 4S testing and review, indoor clay race tire comparison, Raw Speed tires review, got another charger coming in July...

I have an upgrade video for the Amp MT I want to do, but just haven't had the time to run this truck much. :( That said, everything I figure out about this truck I post in this forum, so you guys are the first to hear of anything. So far it's just RPM steering rack, 20kg servo, HW 1060 ESC, Spektrum receiver, Traxxas wheel hexes, and proper slipper setting. :) Next up is hex hardware screw replacement.
 
Apparently I got banned from a sister site but still have access to this one. ?‍♂️

It is what it is I guess.

I really want the Amp DB but I don't know if they make it anymore, I'll check my LHS one of these days and see if they can order me one. They rarely show up on eBay I only see the MT on there.
 
FYI, TLR 22 spur gears and slipper pads fit pretty well onto the Amp. The center hole has to be reamed out to 5mm, I used a drill bit, it's something a hair smaller, like 3/16" or 4.75mm or something.

I was not happy with the performance of the stock slipper pads, they are very inconsistent and glaze/slip a bunch when heated up.

tlr22 spur.jpg

I've got an 82t fitted, stock is 87t.

82t spur gear: https://bit.ly/3rMPQF2
Slipper pads: https://bit.ly/2MwLsKp
 
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FYI, TLR 22 spur gears and slipper pads fit pretty well onto the Amp. The center hole has to be reamed out to 5mm, I used a drill bit, it's something a hair smaller, like 3/16" or 4.75mm or something.

I was not happy with the performance of the stock slipper pads, they are very inconsistent and glaze/slip a bunch when heated up.

View attachment 6707

I've got an 82t fitted, stock is 87t.

82t spur gear: https://bit.ly/3rMPQF2
Slipper pads: https://bit.ly/2MwLsKp
I want to find another option for 32p spurs the Team Associated ones are a bit hard to find as are the Associated slipper pads. I might have to check if the Axial SCX10-II spurs and slipper pads will work.
 

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