Replacement/upgrades

Honeybadger

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Anyone know of an upgrade option for EXC 1/10 2wd chassis, skid plate, bulkhead...
I've upgraded everything around it but now it's given up the ghost.
Thank you
 

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Anyone know of an upgrade option for EXC 1/10 2wd chassis, skid plate, bulkhead...
I've upgraded everything around it but now it's given up the ghost.
Thank you

H-R makes an aluminum front bulkhead. No chassis or skid plate

Yours broke because you have aluminum arms. It made the bulkhead take all the force. Put RPM arms on it.
 
Thank you, appreciate the tip
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I *HATE* Hot Racing parts and their customer service, but no one else makes a lower bulkead/LCA mount that I know of. I replaced the stock one because I broke it, the pins were stronger than the bulkhead and tore it up on a front end crash. Now, if I crash, it destroys the plastic RPM arms which are about $20 to replace the set and take ten minutes. Usually they don't even break, they flex and flex back. I did break the front of the chassis neck one time with this aluminum bulkhead, but other people have reported doing that with the stock one too.
 
I haven't dealt with them yet. Everything on mine that's now aluminum is because I broke the OEM parts...Maybe I'm wrong but every time I break something replace it with aluminum
 
I haven't dealt with them yet. Everything on mine that's now aluminum is because I broke the OEM parts...Maybe I'm wrong but every time I break something replace it with aluminum

The problem with replacing with aluminum is it doesn't flex in a crash, it bends and stays there, and passes on the forces of the hit along. So it finds the next weakest link. By leaving the lower control arms plastic, you hope that's the weakest link because they are cheap and easy to replace. Aluminum for stuff like hubs and caster blocks where you're really trying to minimize slop and generally don't take big hits. RPM arms are a significant upgrade over stock, they use a lot more durable plastic composite that tends to flex and not break.
 
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I *HATE* Hot Racing parts and their customer service, but no one else makes a lower bulkead/LCA mount that I know of. I replaced the stock one because I broke it, the pins were stronger than the bulkhead and tore it up on a front end crash. Now, if I crash, it destroys the plastic RPM arms which are about $20 to replace the set and take ten minutes. Usually they don't even break, they flex and flex back. I did break the front of the chassis neck one time with this aluminum bulkhead, but other people have reported doing that with the stock one too.

I've broken 2 chassis since 2015 both were in the winter when it was cold outside, first time was a water shut off valve that stuck 3 inches out of the ground in the emtpy lot next door and the other was a nose dive into concrete.

Aluminum a arms are best suited for shelf queens unless the car was designed with aluminum a arms in mind which none of the Ecx vehicles were.
 
I've broken 2 chassis since 2015 both were in the winter when it was cold outside, first time was a water shut off valve that stuck 3 inches out of the ground in the emtpy lot next door and the other was a nose dive into concrete.

Aluminum a arms are best suited for shelf queens unless the car was designed with aluminum a arms in mind which none of the Ecx vehicles were.

To be honest I didn't notice mine when it happened because the splash shield/skid plate that connects the chassis to the lower bulkhead (grey, covers the steering) was still intact and held things *relatively* in place and we were testing other things. I noticed the handling get all wonky. I think I remember a direct head-on hit to a raised flower planter box (pressure treated 4x4) at 20mph or so.

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