Sloop in the steering

Briguy

Briguy

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Location
Virginia Beach
Is there any way to get the sloop out of the steering. I can turn the wheels quit a bit before the servo moves. It looks like the connections. But i dont know if its a fixable thing or i have to upgrade something else.
Thanks
 
You have a few options.
  • Put a zip tie around the metal clip on the servo saver.
  • Double stacked metal clips on servo saver.
  • Associated T4 bellcrank.
  • Rpm servo saver eliminator I would highly recommend a metal gear servo if you do this.
  • Hot Racing bell crank.
When I get home I can get you some links to parts and how to's.
Zip tied servo saver cheapest option.
2013-12-07004825.jpg

Double/triple stacked metal clips on servo saver - you need to order another ecx servo saver bellcrank set 2 if you want to triple stack the clips.
CIMG6659.jpg

Associated T4 bellcrank https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...lfwOxPG4O0jZ4SJwaqR-s8bFZavOA5l8R0hoCimfw_wcB
How to https://ecxforum.com/threads/ECX-amp-associated-b4-t4-steering-upgrade.337/

RPM Servo saver eliminator http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/c...ECX-boost-2wd-ruckus-2wd-circuit-2wd-torment/
How to https://ecxforum.com/threads/rpm-servo-saver-eliminator-install-review-on-amp-mt.381/

Hot Racing bellcrank http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236374

I tried the zip tie on mine but, the zip tie would always come off during the run.
Then I went with the double stacked clip on the servo saver, this made a big difference, I ran this setup for about 7 months until a bad crash destroyed the entire front end of my Ruckus and I needed a new steering bellcrank, LHS didn't have the stock one in stock but had the RPM servo saver eliminator in stock so I figured I would try it, I am running a Traxxas 2056 servo and Traxxas 1844 servo saver and made custom spacers for the skid plate to clear the servo saver. I have not run this setup yet so I do not know how well it will work. I've seen people do this same setup and either use a Traxxas 3744 servo saver or the Kimbrough servo saver for a Rustler and space out the skid plate the same way.
 
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I can highly recommend getting rid of the servo saver (or sabotaging it with the kludges suggested above), together with a stronger servo the difference in steering performance is enormous.

Keep in mind that all the ball joints, and the plastic linkages mean that there will still be some slop left though. It doesn't seem imprecise so I don't care, but if you're a nitpicker it may bother you :)
 
4wd or 2wd.

Lots of stuff for 2wd. Upgrade to metal horn, upgrade to metal servo, rpm servo saver, metal turn buckles.
 
2wd. I do not have a lot of hours on the truck. I'm assuming that the slop is the way that it comes from the factory. I'm not trying to break the bank. Just have some fun. I don't want anything to break because I didn't try to fix it.
 
Yea the slop is like that from the factory. Not a whole lot you can do without spending 30-50 bux minimum.

Horn and servo saver was 23 from Amazon, metal servo was another 23 from Amazon. Turn buckles are about 23 also, then the hubs are another 20 bux or so. So for about 100 bux total it is fixed. The reverse wobble is also just about gone.
 
Take out pivots as the play in them alone is crazy. Nitro hose in . Cut a mm bigger each side. Nudge tight. Boom baby.
 
I swapped out the bellcrank for the Hot Racing one and can't believe how much difference its made with everything else stock. Day and night in terms of stability and somehow improved my turning circle.

Other upgrades I'd recommend after that would be:
- Traxxas turnbuckles
- RPM wheel hubs
- RPM A arms
 
Hey chuckstay.
Is yours the 2wd version or 4x4.
Hot racing bellcrank sounds good.
Post a link if 4x4 version
Cheers
 
Ive just ordered a aluminium servo horn for my 4x4 and looking forward to fitting it. The give in the rest of the steering linkage shud be enough to protect the mighty savox 15kg servo i put in.
Traxxas turn buckles and the nitro hose on the middle linkage along with shims in the front and rear axles has sorted my 4x4 out. . All in all £45 spent on steering.
 
Awesome. FYI don’t ever get the RPM front steering hubs. Just had a crash last night and ripped out/lost both shoulder screws. I’ve since read that the hot racing aluminium ones are better.
 
Chuckstasy said:
Awesome. FYI don’t ever get the RPM front steering hubs. Just had a crash last night and ripped out/lost both shoulder screws. I’ve since read that the hot racing aluminium ones are better.
Click to expand...

Yeah Hot Racing is the best option for that. Make sure to use blue thread lock.
 
I run RPM rear hubs as steering knuckles. Long M3 screw/washer/RPM C-Hub/metal sleeve/rear RPM hub/metal sleeve/washer/M3 nylock nut. I'll post pictures if you want me to. I saw it in "still missing" URC, but the guy used HPI parts. I started using OE spares till the bearings blew up.
Some days ago I saw pictures here of a similar set-up, can't remember wich thread.
Edit: You need adjustable turnbuckles, I don't think OE plastic links will be long enough.
 
Aunion said:
I run RPM rear hubs as steering knuckles. Long M3 screw/washer/RPM C-Hub/metal sleeve/rear RPM hub/metal sleeve/washer/M3 nylock nut. I'll post pictures if you want me to. I saw it in "still missing" URC, but the guy used HPI parts. I started using OE spares till the bearings blew up.
Some days ago I saw pictures here of a similar set-up, can't remember wich thread.
Edit: You need adjustable turnbuckles, I don't think OE plastic links will be long enough.
Click to expand...


Love to see the picture of this :)
 
@Aunion that's so awesome that it fits....looks rock solid. The pivot point is now behind the wheel and you've slightly increased the wheelbase. Do you notice any difference in handling?
 

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