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Steering ruckus 2wd

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Briguy, Feb 26, 2017.

  1. Briguy

    Briguy Active Member

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    Now i hope the truck stays running what can I do to fix the crappy steering? Ecx ruckus 2wd.
     
  2. xlDooM

    xlDooM Well-Known Member

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    Cheapest option that works: Power HD 1501MG (or any of the 1501MG sticker variations), RPM servo saver eliminator. Be sure to use the correctly splined servo horn (a few should have come with the vehicle).

    Of course Savox, Hitec or Futaba have even better (faster and stronger) servos, but they cost a lot more.
     
    WoodiE likes this.
  3. i_r_beej

    i_r_beej Well-Known Member
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    I have two of these Turnigy 1258TG servos. Raced them both, ran into walls, sides of jump boxes, railings, posts. Still going strong. They also outperform Savox 1258TG servos at about half the cost. (The Turnigy 1258TG looks like a rebranded PowerHD 8307TG.)

    I've posted elsewhere in these forums about the Turnigy 1258 servos (with great enthusiasm) but, honestly, I have no connection to HobbyKing. I just really like it when I discover something that performs well at a modest price! I think the only caveat is that replacement gears might be difficult to come by. (Altough... you could destroy a Turnigy 1258TG, recycle it, and buy another for about the same price as one Savox 1258.)

    Video comparing a Turnigy 1258 to a Savox 1258

    Interesting discussion on UltimateRC about the Turnigy servo.

    I also have a Savox 1251MG in my TLR 22 and I like it just fine. I purchased it because #1 My LHS had one on hand when I needed a low-pro servo, #2 HK didn't have the low-pro Turnigy 1251 in stock (and seems like they never will) and #3 I felt like supporting my LHS. :)
     
  4. xlDooM

    xlDooM Well-Known Member

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    @i_r_beej is this servo a straight swap? I remember having to file a dent into the servo mounting blocks to clear the cable coming out of the 1501MG, and the blocks were also an extremely tight fit into the "ears" of the servo, I had to drill them out a bit. Minor modifications, but I always wondered if the servo or the chassis was a bit out of spec.
     
  5. Briguy

    Briguy Active Member

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    I am trying to get some of the slop out of the steeri g. It is very poorly geared. It makes real wide turns. Just trying to tighten it up some. My sons traxxas grave digger is so tight its almost hard to not flip it over. Somewhere in between would be great.
     
  6. Briguy

    Briguy Active Member

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    Still learning as i go.
     
  7. i_r_beej

    i_r_beej Well-Known Member
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    First, get the RPM ECX Servo Saver Eliminator steering bellcrank. (US$12.00 at AMainHobbies.com) Here's RPM's product information page. It will do the most to remove play from the AMP's steering. It's a direct replacement for the kit steering bellcranks. You'll need to re-use the kit long mounting screws and the tall alloy sleeve. As the name implies, this steering system does NOT provide any kind of shock absorption for the steering servo. If you hit an obstacle too hard, just right, fall off a building, whatever, you MAY strip the plastic gears in the kit servo. (Although when I first installed the RPM bellcranks in my Boost one of the first things I did was cram it into a wall at an angle. The kit plastic servo horn actually skipped a few teeth but otherwise nothing broke!

    You can run the AMP with the RPM steering bellcranks until you damage the kit steering servo and then replace with a metal-geared servo that will be virtually impervious to any impacts. Just run a plastic servo horn and you'll be good- the plastic servo horn will strip before the more expensive metal-geared servo does.
     
  8. i_r_beej

    i_r_beej Well-Known Member
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    @xlDooM the Turnigy 1258 is not quite a direct swap. I had to remove the right-side servo mount (close to the wire boot on the servo casing) and pare off some plastic with a utility knife (or a coarse-grit emery board or sandpaper). That was the only modification i had to make to make the Turnigy servo fit. The servo "ears" fit onto the ECX servo mount just fine. Took about 5 minutes?
     
  9. sc302

    sc302 Well-Known Member

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    Here is my combo which got rid of 99% of the steering issues, nice tight turns. This is about a direct swap as you can get, no trimming or modding anything. Though you will probably need some screws for the turn buckles (I have the dynamite stainless steel screw kit for the ruckus/torment and pulled a few screws out of that which did the trick nicely).

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GAQS190/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PY7U0C2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XF8FZ3Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    2sets of these:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000STYSD8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Screw kit if you don't have, a real life saver.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E...L65&keywords=ruckus+stainless+steel+screw+kit


    Follow these instructions to set your stops/endpoints on a new servo:


    Endpoint set Spektrum DX2E
    First bind your remote to the receiver as described in the manual (bind plug, switch the remote on with the "bind" button pressed). Follow the complete procedure; full throttle, full brake, full right, full left. The remote and receiver are now calibrated (sort of). Switch the receiver (car) off and remove the bind plug. Turn the car back on and test all controls. Chances are that your steering is not exactly set up correctly, either the wheels don't reach lock or your servo is buzzing trying to push the wheels further.

    Here's the trick I found out to finetune the steering (set the endpoints);
    Turn your remote off, but your car ON. Hold the steering wheel to max-right and the trigger to full-brake at the same time. Now turn the transmitter back on. The green light will start blinking. Now you can use the steering wheel to steer and... use the steering-trim button to set the correct end point! Turning the knob rigt gives more steering, left less. Beware: once set; release the steering wheel FIRST before setting the trim button back to center. Repeat procedure for the other side. Now turn the transmitter and the car off. Place the bind-plug and re-bind and re-calibrate receiver. Turn the car off, remove the plug and turn it back on.

    You're all set! Endpoints set correctly, full steering and no burning servo.

    Credit to above instructions goes here: https://ecxforum.com/threads/spektrum-dx2e-how-to-properly-set-end-points.219/
    To @Jamsyl
     
    #9 sc302, Feb 27, 2017
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2017
  10. Apec

    Apec Member

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    Reviving an old thread.

    Do you have photo of the tie strap on the servo saved? And/Or, a photo of the Hot Racing Aluminum Lock Servo Arm?

    Thanks
     
  11. Real_sparky

    Real_sparky Well-Known Member

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    We have an Amp, Torment and Ruckus, all with metal geared servos and the Tie wrap. Tightened our steering right up. All three can now make the same turn in our little backyard track with having to do a three point turn, which was the case before the tie wrap.
     
  12. Steve g

    Steve g Active Member

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    I just tried the trick of setting the endpoints with the previous info. Good idea to turn the truck upside-down first, because I couldn't get the remote into this mode. Once I turned the remote back on the truck goes backwards and to the right, with no flashing lights. Tried other combos of throttle position and steering, all with the same results: truck moving in whatever direction the remote is in after turning the remote back one. It is the dx2e remote. Not sure why it won't work. Will try on my other circuit once my new esc is installed
     

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