Torment rebuild and listed upgrades......

kruzracing169

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In the process of going through everything. I will post all my upgrades that I feel that have been a success from this past season. This truck has been bashed hard and driven even harder on the track.

Yes, a person can go out and buy a higher made brand/product and have the best. ECX is an awesome foundation for any level. I am a type of person that will go out, and make something so small, just bling. I have spent way more then the truck is worth, but it's the experience and knowledge you gain.
I will share my knowledge and please, I am open for suggestions as time progresses.
Thanks, and hope you enjoy, because I know I do😁
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kruzracing169

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Here is my shock setup that I feel that has really, really been successful. This route is way cheaper then going Proline or others per say.

Purchased the Traxxas 2wd Slash Ultra w/white springs, front and rear plastic shocks. Used the interior parts and swapped over to aluminum housings.
STRC brand;
#ST3767R (red)
#ST3765XGM (gunmetal)
#ST3766XGM (gunmetal)
Used 2 hole pistons with 30 weight oil.

Team Losi Racing brand springs;
TLR5182, 3.5 rate spring on front
TLR5171, 3.4 rate spring on rear

This shock setup gives you an lower ride height/lower roll center, which gives awesome handling. Zoom into pics to see the adjustment tension rings to the distance of the springs. Gap on front and just touching on rear. I used a calliper to get exact distance to match to other side.
(Side note, you can take your stock shocks and install Nitro fuel line (or clear vacumm line from parts store) cut to 3/16" lengths and install inside your shocks to give a lower ride height).
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KyleRC

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I did a custom lcg chassis modification using amp parts and a circuit chassis only costed $28 for all the parts. But doing that shortens the wheelbase about 20mm so I built a chassis extension out of steel for the lower brace and aluminum for the upper brace just because it’s lighter and doesn’t need to be that strong anyway. I barely made any measurements if any. I also used associated t4 rear arms to kind of prevent the rear bump steer from the arms twisting but it still happens.

I could go on and on about it I can post pics in the morning.
Pretty much the only stock parts are a couple of the original screws and the shock towers, otherwise everything has been replaced or upgraded.

I haven’t any problems with traction rolling ever since the mod it really handles like a actual older model rc designed for racing rear motor. However I’m running a 3000kv motor and it just has too much power than what I like to run while on the track and bigger pinions won’t fit so I can’t gear it up and turn the throttle limit down.

It was actually my first rc some time back around 2012-14. One of the Christmas’ it started as and ecx ruckus v1 with the orange body. And that’s where it started.

I actually did have the fuel line trick but after some learning curve I discovered it severely impacts suspension geometry and these trucks are designed to hand best at ride hight (arms level or close) and I found with my work on this truck I got those arms as close to level and cleared up as much slop and got everything smooth lap times just kept getting shorter, even added a little extra travel so the arms can swing down further and it really helped with chassis roll while cornering at high speeds and it handles really well.

I also can play with anti squat now and added way too much (almost 10° probably) but I like the way it handles and makes the car look hilarious going down the straights full throttle.
 
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KyleRC

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Racing the torment tip (MY PREFERENCE FOR PACKED CLAY. will not deliver good results on low bite dusty conditions):
try drilling holes in the front shock tower to allow you to move the camber link higher this raises roll center and allows faster cornering on high bite with slower steering response (I like it) AND PREVENTS PUSHING/PLOWING what ever you call it.

Do what you can to make the links longer using stock mounting holes first and adjust accordingly and make one adj at a time if it gets better do more until it gets bad then go back a little and find the happy medium and leave the competition in the rooster tails behind ya!
 

kruzracing169

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That would be really cool if you could post pics on here. It would be a nice comparison of each build. I like doing mods, I don't really enjoy stock, ha.

I will be posting my complete mods, just waiting on my replacement C-hubs from RPM for the front end. I was really happy of the outcome of the SCT.

I will hope to grab some clay indoor this winter, hopefully. We will need to see. I am trying to get my 1/8th truggy built.
 

kruzracing169

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I did a custom lcg chassis modification using amp parts and a circuit chassis only costed $28 for all the parts. But doing that shortens the wheelbase about...................
Yeah, I only did the fuel line trick on my other truck, as the basher. I didn't want to put much money in it, but yet give it a better experience. I was tired of it flipping over to easy with too much bite when turning.

On this one here that I am rebuilding and reviewing, I started off with the stock Traxxas shocks and then installed the TLR springs. I left the distance of the shorter spring length to the plastic spacers on front, for that extra play per say, or roll center. Then it would have that ease of less roll in corner. I was tired of coming in hot, too much grab on tires, and rolling it up on 2 wheels. I have less now. I am also like level with the A-arm, when truck is just sitting there. I also have like some added weights in front, under electronics cover to help with keeping the nose down in the air and overall weight distribution, and close to same as rear.

On the back, I used the plastic spacers to where they literally just touched the rear springs, and have it have that little bit of sag.
Overall, I was happy with the suspension setup. Only flaw I found on the plastic shocks was, too much flex in the main body when shocks where in movement (use). Also, popped off the top caps soooooo often, when coming down hard on a landing.
The upgrade to aluminum is my NEW upgrade, have not fully tested them. Setup of springs are the same per say. I have aluminum on my other RCs, and difference is night and day.
I didn't want to drop $60 on aftermarket shock brands a pair. Then extra on different spring weights. These Traxxas shocks with TLR springs are overall cheaper in price and quality is really nice.
 
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KyleRC

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I agree stock shocks are garbage I struggle not to pop of the caps while rebuilding them on the other car I put them on because I’m so accustomed to rebuilding the big bore aluminum shocks on by buggies and larger cars.
I don’t like the ecx shock design they are difficult to rebuild, bleed and are not very durable for racing and they don’t hold fluid long it all leaks out and gets everything all gross.

The shock shafts also score easily so keep them away from dust.
 

Heyitsme

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Traxxas ultra shocks are known to pop shock caps that's a known issue Traxxas has never decided to do anything about (same problem over 20 years) aluminum caps are a must if doing any jumping. Stock ultra shock shafts can get bent also so TiNi shafts are a nice upgrade they are already on the Big Bore Traxxas shocks. Ultra shocks are not that bad after getting aluminum shock caps.
 

kruzracing169

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Traxxas ultra shocks.............Stock ultra shock shafts can get bent also so TiNi shafts are a nice upgrade........
Thanks for the pointer.....I have already bent a few of them. The next time I bend, I will be upgrading to these shafts;

Traxxas 2656T Hardened-Steel Shock Shafts with TicN coated (XX-long) - Rear

Traxxas 1664T Hardened-Steel Shock Shafts, TicN coated (long) - Front

Yeah, I see now....do they make aluminum parts for the Big bore shocks?
 
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Heyitsme

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Yeah, I see now....do they make aluminum parts for the Big bore shocks?
Yeah but look at it this way with threaded shocks no more preload clips (still have to use preload clips on big bores) but big bores are aluminum. Personally you may spend more but I think you went in the right direction. You might be able to build them up from scratch without taking apart a assembled ultra shock that's what's nice about the ultra shocks totally rebuilldable from the ground up.

Also check Omnimodels on Ebay some of the STRC stuff is marked down right now.
 
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KyleRC

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image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
Finally some pics.

Let me know what you think besides my wiring setup looking like noodles shot out of an air cannon. The metal doesn’t look to good because I though this thing was going to break in half as soon as it came within 100ft of the track but it’s proving to be the least of my worries.
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KyleRC

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The body only fits because I made the metal chassis extension seen in the last picture. I’m actually considering to try and put a associated t4 chassis on it to control the chassis flex a little, the amp chassis is so flexible I’m worried I might bring it in after a race and the battery will be a big U. I’ve hear of people putting b4 chassis in amps but I’m not sure how it works but I have a b4.2 and the chassis looks almost identical to the chassis in my torment and all the t4 chassis is around 10-30 mm longer.
 

kruzracing169

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Excited for the upgraded RPM Caster block. I believe the caster block, keeping it plastic is better. I don't want to use too much aluminum, keep it lighter.
Look at the side by side comparison of the stock vs RPM.
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Here is what happened to me using the stock ones. Minor, but it could of been worse. It happened literally first week new.
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kruzracing169

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I really like the Hot Racing bulkhead (front suspension mount), ECT0806. There is less friction when A-arms are in movement. I was getting a restriction between the RPM arms and stock bulkhead. I even sanded where they would slide together, it helped, but still not enough.
The Hot Racing steering block, ECT2106 is a must. If your ever going to upgrade anything on your RCs, the front steering block. You can use thread lock, blue, medium strength. You will not lose the shoulder screws.
I forget how many shoulder screws I have lost, when they were stock. I would even use super glue/tire glue.
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KyleRC

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I broke the hot racing front block with in a month the design is bad they should have made it solid all the way across for both arms luckily it doesn’t let the arms fall off it will hold on by one screw on each side. I’m using the plastic amp one for now and if that breaks I’ll see if there’s associated ones the right size and if I’m lucky I’ll be able to adjust the caster a little bit. Which is a nice tuning option.
 

kruzracing169

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I broke the hot racing front block with in a month the design is bad........
Yeah, I noticed that too. Why would they do that I wonder? I will have to email them in that too, ha.
Nice to know, hopefully it was just yours. I did notice that the two top screw holes that the tower attaches to, they are not machined straight. I ended up not cross threading, but if using too long of a screw, it gets jammed and end up stripping head of screw out. I had to drill one out to remove, just assembling. The fix is, threadlock and shorter screws on top. I used regular lengths on bottom two.
If this breaks, I will be updating with a different aluminum bulkhead. I too will try Associated.
*****UPDATE, I AM A LITTLE ANNOYED.....I broke a damn screw off on the bottom four holes, and cross threaded another. Alignment is a little off to the grey plastic holes for the steering bottom protection and my T bone racing bumper. Be very careful when assembling. I think ALL holes need to have a screw ran through them before assembly. To get rid of maybe some extra anodizing in the holes. I don't know. It's just a little frustrating.********

I put associated on my boost, I will be doing the same write up with that next.
 
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KyleRC

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My “torment” has an amp front end on it

Best part is I have a b4.2 that had aluminum parts on the front but I swapped it out for rpm after breaking the whole front end off (that’s why you should never get aluminum arms, I got it used and they were on it already) I have the front block off I’ll have to try it out.
 
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