Turn buckle steering arms and servo turn buckle

[ZavAMPMT]

I have searched here and online and didn't seem to find an answer.

We still have a fair bit of slop in the front end of an AMP MT. We upgraded to a Spectrum S6170 Servo (maybe wish I'd gone with a better servo upgrade) and the RPM Servo Saver eliminator. Also increased to 2.8 inch tires. Steering is a lot better but still maybe not quite as good as we'd like it.

The next idea is to add turn buckle steering arms to tighten the linkage. I found a few posts on this forum advising against metal turnbuckles but I am wondering what others have found that works.

Are there also after market versions of the small turn buckle "dog-bone" that runs from the servo ball arm ball stud to the ball stud on the servo saver? Ours seems to be out almost to the end of it's thread limit.

Thanks.

 

[i_r_beej]

Each piece that you replace with better quality will incrementally reduce the amount of play. HOWEVER, play will begin to increase with use and wear. (This happens to ALL cars, regardless of cost-- TLR, AE, Yokomo, Schumacher, all of them.) Still, I highly recommend RPM parts. I replaced all swing arms, caster blocks, and rear axle carriers on my Circuit (virtually identical to the AMP) and the amount of play was greatly reduced.

Links:
RPM Caster blocks
RPM Swingarms, front
RPM swingarms, rear
RPM rear axle carriers

I don't recommend the front spindle carriers because the plastic is softer compared to the ECX part and I had constant troubles with the shoulder screws working loose. Many others here had the same problem. I recommend the Hot Racing aluminum spindle carriers instead (or the ECX version).

For links, I use Traxxas and Associated parts. Traxxas turnbuckles are thicker and heavier but I found them to be perfect for the front camber links. The ECX cars are so flexible that I was having trouble with the ball-and-socket links popping off after even mild hits to walls and obstacles (even other cars). I detail the installation of the Traxxas links in >this thread<

I use Associated titanium turnbuckles elsewhere since I found them to be far more durable than steel AE turnbuckles. (See the thread I linked to for more info on that.)

As for ball cups, I recommend RPM Heavy Duty Rod Ends. They are a direct fit for the ECX ball studs and have an initial snug fit that wears in quickly but still maintains a close fit. Note that every time you remove and replace ball cups they stretch and deform and don't fit as closely anymore, introducing play back into the system.

 

[ZavAMPMT]

Thanks for the reply. Sorry to be late getting back to you. We were on vacation and hadn't been working on the truck much. I had found your other posts on building your short course truck and found them very informative. One of the biggest questions I had was to the length of the turnbuckles and which rod ends to use. I got the 80 mm titanium turnbuckles and RPM heavy duty rod ends as you suggest. It is a real struggle to get the rod ends onto the rods and I didn't get as much travel as I was hoping. The rods ended up way too long. I am going to try one more time with a pair of 67mm associated turnbuckles and see how that goes.

 

[i_r_beej]

Oh-- I didn't answer your question about the link from the servo arm to the steering bellcranks. I am not aware of an aftermarket replacement. The actual rod is just a piece of "all-thread" so I think you could wither cut the end off a cheap AE steel turnbuckle, or purchase a length of all-thread at your local hobby shop.

 

[ZavAMPMT]

Thanks. The 67mm turnbuckles turned out to be the perfect length. After putting them in and putting in a slightly longer aluminum servo arm, the steering is way better. The current little dog-bone connector should work just fine.

Thanks again for your help.

Oh-- I didn't answer your question about the link from the servo arm to the steering bellcranks. I am not aware of an aftermarket replacement. The actual rod is just a piece of "all-thread" so I think you could wither cut the end off a cheap AE steel turnbuckle, or purchase a length of all-thread at your local hobby shop.