Upgrading AMP Crush to Brushless... where do I put the radio receiver?

ecbutler

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9
So, my son's AMP Crush almost caught fire today with a smoking ESC. I read online that these stock esc/receiver combos are really bad and many have gone up in smoke. So, instead of replacing it, I'm thinking of just going brushless. I'm contemplating this for the esc/motor combo: https://www.horizonhobby.com/produc...r-combo-4000kv-3.5mm-bullet-ec3/ONXS0501.html

But, that leaves an interesting problem. I also need a receiver since the stock is a receiver/esc combo. So, I was thinking of getting this: https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/2.4ghz-receiver-wp-4-channel-v4/ECX13009.html

The problem is, where do I mount the receiver? There doesn't seem to be a spot for it, yet the mount where the stock one is located has holes for screws for ESCs. Has anyone done this upgrade to an AMP Crush? What are your recommendations?

(By the way, he also tore up his transmission a few weeks back, and I replaced it with an all metal gear set.)

Thanks!
 
You can mount it next to the ESC on the shelf in front of the rear shocks in the "Original" location, just arrange the ESC, RX, and on/off switch so it all sits nicely on that shelf, my Torments shelves are a bit bigger it looks like, but it all fits there, and one of my Torments the RX lives up next to the steering servo, looking at stock pictures of the Amp Crush it appears to be a lot similar.
Dont bother with screwing the ESC down pick up some double sided sticky tape at Walmart, I prefer the Gorilla brand, cut a small piece off stick it to the bottom and then stick it to the shelf. You should be good to go.
As far as the RX (receiver) goes, just make sure it works with your particular Transmitter.

Brushless system, I started with a GoolRc combo, but wasnt satisfied with it. So I opted for a Onyx combo, and it is very spunky, wheelies galore!
Onyx

ecx-1-10-amp-crush-mt-2wd-orange-rtr-intl-ecx03048it2_6.jpgecx03048it2-3.jpg
 
Thanks. The original ESC was stickied on, but it came off after a crash and was getting dragged around on the ground. I wonder if that had anything to do with it frying? I tied it back on with a piece of string so my son could keep driving, then a few minutes later he goes, "dad, my car is smoking."

I have some Gorilla 2-sided tape, but I wanted to use the screw holes if there was a place I could shove the receiver. If not, then I guess the tape idea can work too.
 
At least on my ESC's there are no additional "mounting" holes per`sae. I am not sure it is possible to screw it down, unless you plan on screwing into the ESC shell, which I highly suggest you NOT do that.....LOL
I would go with a good complimenting sized square of Gorilla tape (if that's what you use), and for added protection you could place a zip tie around it as well? I have had zero issues with the Gorilla tape failing ..... knock on wood....... Now battery packs on the other hand, yeah I use velcro hold downs and they get worn fairly fast, and when you decide to barrel roll down the street, that's a problem. :oops:🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
The ESC has its own mount holes, and the truck has holes for an ESC to mount, but the stock one does not use them. So that's why I was going to get an ESC with those holes to mount to. The only other option I could do is get an ESC/motor 2-1 and then use the platform where the old esc was for just the receiver, but I don't like that idea. if the esc or motor fries, then both are useless.
 
The Onyx ESC does not have additional "mounting" holes.
At least mine does not, unless you mean removing the screws on the bottom that holds the ESC's case together? Am I missing something here?

You could just get the original stock 2n1 stock combo. And be good to go.
But then you are in the same boat as to "mounting" it by using double sided sticky tape.

And note, the faster you make it, the easier it will be to break it. ie.... brushless combo..... ;) 🤣
 
The Onyx ESC does not have additional "mounting" holes.
At least mine does not, unless you mean removing the screws on the bottom that holds the ESC's case together? Am I missing something here?

You could just get the original stock 2n1 stock combo. And be good to go.
But then you are in the same boat as to "mounting" it by using double sided sticky tape.

And note, the faster you make it, the easier it will be to break it. ie.... brushless combo..... ;) 🤣
You're right, it doesn't I got confused with another one I was looking at. But mounting it with tape should work. However, I will probably keep looking for one with the mounting holes because I do want to go brushless, and I know my speed demon will ram it into something like always. :D
 
You're right, it doesn't I got confused with another one I was looking at. But mounting it with tape should work. However, I will probably keep looking for one with the mounting holes because I do want to go brushless, and I know my speed demon will ram it into something like always. :D
It's all good, I was just thinking maybe I didn't read your other post right and i missed something.... LOL
I honestly dont know if there are any brushless ESC combo's that actually have extra mounting holes? I might be wrong. 3M makes a good double sided tape as well. And there are always trusty zip ties, throw 3-4 on there and it's gooooooooood .....;):D
 
Well I'll be ..... I guess I never noticed any ESC having those.
If you are so inclined you could make your own ESC + RX shelf, to replace the one that is on there, make it a bit wider so you have enough room to fit everything on it, just make sure you have enough clearance of the shocks travel. Just an idea.
I still think you will be fine with double sided sticky tape though.
 
Well I'll be ..... I guess I never noticed any ESC having those.
If you are so inclined you could make your own ESC + RX shelf, to replace the one that is on there, make it a bit wider so you have enough room to fit everything on it, just make sure you have enough clearance of the shocks travel. Just an idea.
I still think you will be fine with double sided sticky tape though.
Cool, I appreciate all your advice! Thanks! Now I just have to scavenge for loose change to feed this RC addiction of mine.
 
ecButler, I have two AMP Crushes, Orange and Blue. I will say this, it's a great truck when it's upgraded. I run a Gen Ace 11.7-volt 7mAh (7 amps) 3S battery on it and, a 3.7- volt .700 mAh battery for the LED lights, as we run at night also. the lights are controlled by micro toggle switches. As you can see, I had to raise the ESC platform in order for the 3S battery to slide under it. If you go with a 2S LiPo, this won't be a concern. Also, if you notice, I mounted an aluminum plate onto the ESC platform with M3 flathead screws. This helps to dissipate some of the heat away from the ESC and keep things cool. I did away with the stock battery tie down and went with a battery strap. That won't be a concern with a 2S LiPo. You can mount your receiver under the Servo cover and use a piece of fuel line hose, sliced, over the wires and tucked into the hollows of the chassis. Makes for a good clean wire installation. As you can see the body has been modded out also to save it from tears and rips, we do a lot of running on asphalt. The back LEDs are mounted on a Traxxas nerf bar, which is mounted on a 1/16x3/4 piece of aluminum across the wheelie bar frame.
I don't know what motor you are going to go with, but I would go with Hobby King or Castle combos if your pocketbook allows you to do so. Both are great combos. I would also go with a new radio and receiver if you can. All this depends on how far you want to go into the hobby. If you and your son are just getting started, I would keep the speed down until he, or you, can control the truck without hitting curbs, car tires, trees, etc. There is a learning curve and it's just part of the hobby. When I first started, I was breaking parts left and right. But practice makes perfect and it all falls in line. A lot of mods I make myself which is what the hobby is all about. Hope this info helps you make your decision, and hope you and your son enjoy the hobby, it is addictive, I have 36.
Happy RCing!
 

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Thanks @weave, I also have been thinking of raising my ESC shelf just so I can accommodate my 3s hard case pack. I actually thought of doing that, now that I have seen it done, I may giver a go. I assume your RX lives under the front cover next to the steering servo? Or is it in plain sight in your posted pictures?
 
You can mount the receiver on top of the servo cover if you want, it would definitely be easier to get to. So here's my Blue Amp Crush with Hot Racing and Pro-Line wide traction set-up. It's pretty hard to flip the truck now from stock, and, it corners like you wouldn't believe. The bumpers you see on top of the body are to protect the body when and if it flips, as we do a lot of asphalt Racing. They’re furniture bumpers for legs on chairs and sofas.
I'm a retired journeyman machinist, so this is what I do, tear down and make better. If it doesn't work, back to the drawing board. Some parts I made myself, if I can't buy them. Anyway, that's what the hobby is all about, it's kinda like owning a race car, you're always trying to make it faster and handle better.
Happy RC'ing to all.
 

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So just took this baby out and ran it hard on the asphalt for about 20 minutes with the motor fan on. Temp on the motor was 112 degrees after I finished. Going to try without the motor fan on.
Motor temp without the motor fan on is 156 degrees.
 

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That is pretty hot @weave . Quite a difference with and without a fan. Any idea what the acceptable temp range is for a brushless motor? I realize that may be a pretty broad stroke, maybe just generalizations?
 
WithinU, you want to try and keep your brushless motors below 170 degrees, 150 would be great, or lower (with a high-velocity fan) over the motor. Most of the small RC fans at the hobby stores are not high-velocity fans, meaning they don't push a lot of air (CFM).
Below is what I use to cool my brushless motors. This fan is about 7.5 CFM and is .60 amp at 5 volts. You can run this fan on a separate 7.4 LiPo drone battery and it will run a long time before you have to charge the battery. I wired mine in a switched (micro toggle switch) array, so on cool days, and nights I don't have to use the fan, or you can run it in intervals, it's your choice. You will have to solder the same type of connector on the fan that matches the battery to make the connection (male to a female). As you can see in the picture with the micro switches, I also use the same type of fan to blow air over the chassis when the body is attached. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's worth it. If you have a used electronics store in your area, you should be able to find these fans. Just remember don't go below .45 amps. You can also check eBay. Hope this helps in your RC adventures.
 

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WithinU, I made an error on the voltage of the fans. They are 5 volts, not 12 and, can be run on a 7.4-volt drone battery. 850 mAh or 1000 mAh. Sorry for the typo, it has been corrected.
 

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Just got the blue amp crush for my son. Definatly following this thread as i'll be upgrading as it breaks. Having experience with the Brutus the first thing will most likely be the metal gears. I'm curious the controller that came with it is real small. which my son (6) actually likes cause it fits his hand better. Anyone know if it will sync up with other reciever/ecs's ?
 

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