Back to crawling and need advice

Jaredcrawler185

New Member
Messages
3
Hi guys,

So I took a break from rc because of work and college and am finally back into crawling.

I was going to go with another scale rig scx10. But I seen this temper in the store and decided to make this my main trail rig. And took it out today and I had fun. However on steep climbs it had a tendency to flip backwards I believe center of gravity needs lowered. Also the torque of the motor leans the body over and can flip the vehicle. Also the tires didn't have a lot of bite and are too hard.

So I just bought a set of rc4wd 1.55 beadlocks and pitbull tires in 1.55 so 70 bucks later that takes care of that lol.

Now I had a couple questions,

1. What is the best way to lower the center of gravity?

2. How can I stop the body from leaning due to torque.

3. I'm not trying to go scale with this thing but I would love to add lights and a winch but am clueless on where or how to mount? Any suggestions?

4 any other decent upgrades or advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any and all replies ahead of time.
 
This YouTube video may help!
I reversed the motor, preloaded the shocks and changed tires and wheels. Made a big difference.
 

Attachments

  • 0701171404a.jpg
    0701171404a.jpg
    124.9 KB · Views: 3
I have mine dropped down considerably lower than a stock one, it works great. 1.9 TSL's with weighted axial beadlocks, hitec servo (also weighted), 370 dromida motor, dynamite speedo on 2s. Way to much power but it crawls awesome. My lower links are almost level on flat ground, and it still has good travel. Only issue I get is front tires rubbing lower links, but I have a set of 12mm wheel wideners coming that will take care of that. Got a few LED's on it too for night time runs. My body is also heavily trimmed Lol.
 

Attachments

  • 21151762_10159236951000716_7177669464833169173_n.jpg
    21151762_10159236951000716_7177669464833169173_n.jpg
    103.4 KB · Views: 30
  • 21192330_10159236950990716_3406583981583375201_n.jpg
    21192330_10159236950990716_3406583981583375201_n.jpg
    104.4 KB · Views: 27
1: Shorter Shocks or raise the shock mounts.
2: Stiffen up those shocks using spacers (see photo in response #1).
3: Lights are easy, get a lightbar, a winch would be a challenge to install since you have no bumper.
4: Toss some heavy duty Redcat Aluminum differentials (they won't strip out and they add weight down low) in the axles.
Add aluminum Chubs and Knuckles up front and aluminum lockers in the rear.
Move your battery to the front (Flip the tray around).
 
Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it. So far I turned the battery tray around and the weight distribution really helped. My 1.55 steel headlock rims and pitbull tires shipped and should be here soon.
And I've also been tearing up the rocks all day and my stock rims well at least the blue ring is scratched all to pieces. But for 140 bucks this thing is pretty impressive out on a trail.

I was also wondering something do they make a full metal axle for this thing.
 
The Temper is pretty much the same as the RedCat Everest 16 so most of the parts for that truck will fit.
So they do make a full metal axle case but they are insanely expensive (http://ebay.to/2vAM6cf)
The differentials I'm using are for the Everest 16 (see http://temper.loosenuts.com/2017/03/rebuilding-differentials-ECX.html )

You're using these? http://www.redcatracing.com/680010
Mine diff's have been fine but I may get those just because. I got my wheel spacers on, full servo throw now. No more hitting the lower links.
 

Attachments

  • 21151763_10159251887960716_4070113805823399196_n.jpg
    21151763_10159251887960716_4070113805823399196_n.jpg
    72.1 KB · Views: 21
Yes, the 680010's. They add a little more weight but mostly they are aluminum and not plastic. You will strip out the plastic diffs once you start running heavy wheels and tires and definitely once you put a bigger motor in (which you will do because you want more power to turn those big tires).
 
Yes, the 680010's. They add a little more weight but mostly they are aluminum and not plastic. You will strip out the plastic diffs once you start running heavy wheels and tires and definitely once you put a bigger motor in (which you will do because you want more power to turn those big tires).

Knock on wood I haven't had a problem with mine. I've been running 1.9 tires/beadlocks for over a year and a bigger motor since last winter, no issues yet. I don't beat on it if I'm in a tight bind though, I know its limitations I guess
 
Yeah, I found it's limitations the hard way :)
I didn't like them so I upgraded mine, then it started putting too much torque on the C-Hubs and now those are failing so it's time to rebuild the front end again, this time with Aluminum C-Hubs and Knuckles. I think the 6lbs of overall weight is just too much for this little thing. I might just have to park it and build another SCX-10.
 
Well sorry for taking a while to write back I have been very busy. And busy on my gmade r1. Anyway I've come back to the ecx and so far I got full metal diffs. I also bought a couple of the barrage axles for cheap and used those to widen the stance. I also switched out the esc with the barrage esc and rx. I put rc4wd steel stamped pit bull growlers 1.55 size. And they are just a tad smaller than the 1.9 tires that the stock barrage has. Also added rc4wd Baja lights to it to crawl at night.

I was going to use the barrage links to extend the wheel base but need longer shocks or I may be able to fit a droop kit.

Also has anyone done a dig system on this rig or is there a way to do one
 
Pretty sure you would need a different trans to run a dig system. My buddy is working on a delrin chassis similiar to the dravtech and J Karnage one's. Other than that they're a pretty capable rig when setup well. Only issue I've had with mine is ripping a c-hub off the axle which was a simple fix.
 

Attachments

  • 22221552_10159410793675716_1805373326367462210_n.jpg
    22221552_10159410793675716_1805373326367462210_n.jpg
    67.9 KB · Views: 14
  • 22195483_10159410793680716_1964001691212651094_n.jpg
    22195483_10159410793680716_1964001691212651094_n.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 13
  • 22228233_10159410793660716_1991162137312768076_n.jpg
    22228233_10159410793660716_1991162137312768076_n.jpg
    109 KB · Views: 13
Curious, which wheel did the c-hub rip off from?
My right front has exploded so many times I can't count.
I've replaced the c-hub twice and the knuckle once.
I'm contemplating replacing it all with aluminum or, waiting and buying the Doomsday (Barrage V3) axles.
 
Curious, which wheel did the c-hub rip off from?
My right front has exploded so many times I can't count.
I've replaced the c-hub twice and the knuckle once.
I'm contemplating replacing it all with aluminum or, waiting and buying the Doomsday (Barrage V3) axles.

The left (driver) side is the one that pulled out, I'm a mechanic so I always refer to it as a full size vehicle Lol. It just happened a week ago too. I've had it since it came out and put 1.9's on it right away, surprised that's all I've broke. I think it happend when my dog bone pulled out of the outdrive, which I fixed by shimming the outdrive's in farther. I too am contemplating the barrage axles simply for the front CVD shafts. I thought of picking up a pair of the shafts and seeing if I can make them work in the temper housings. The chassis we are working on is similar to this one. http://www.jcautodesign.com/karnage-jr-chassis.html
 
Yeah I've shimmed mine too. I noticed that the dogbone was trying to pop out when the wheel was at full left and I was climbing. And then the dog bone gets out of position, you crank the wheel back and it just levers the whole assembly apart! I think part of the problem is really good sticky tires on extremely heavy wheels and too much motor. The suspension just wasn't designed to handle it and it literally is pulling the axle and bending it.
 
Probably. I also drilled the wheel pin hole on the axle shaft farther towards the threads to shim it as much as possible.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top