Blown LiPo battery

Thanks I see all the options, cheap too!

Weave I see the battery pack, switch and wiring you added, that’s for lights correct? I was thinking about that but my thought is to run lights from the other channels on the DumboRC 6 channel radio so I can switch them from the transmitter. I haven’t done it yet but I have a cheap 1/10 Gravedigger knockoff body incoming from Banggood I may wire up. My plan is to have one pretty shelf queen body and a couple of basher bodies I can beat the snot out of.

Great work Weave, thanks for sharing!
 
Yes, I have a separate battery for the LED's and the fans, all which are switched with a micro toggle switch. You can run you LED'S off the trans/receiver but you will have to add a 100 ohm resistor as the voltage and amperage is to high for LED'S. I believe the output voltage is 5 volts. It would be ok for high Velocity fans but would limit your run time if you use the main battery. I use switched auxiliary batteries so I can control when too use the fans and lights. I don't run my lights during the day, only at night.
 
Most BEC outputs are in that range And I’m sure it doesn’t draw much amps. What is the BEC output on your ESC?

Hmmm, I’m old enough to remember when BECs came out as a separate component to eliminate the second battery that ran your electronics back in the day. I could wire an external BEC off of the ESC side of the power leads. They are designed to power your receiver but can out put 5v and they are cheap. https://usa.banggood.com/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC-For-RC-Models-p-915037.html Maybe not needed if my receiver channels puts out 5v but some put out 6 or more. The cheap (but awesom) servos I use give me speeds for 6v and 7,4v and the brushless ESC I have incoming puts out 6v 1 amp.
 
LepthTurn, here is a chart for LED's, (light emitting diodes). As you can see the nominal voltage 1.7 to 4.0 depending on the type of LED you use. The nomial current is 20mA (20mA=.020 amps. So a 48 to 100 ohm 1/4 watt resistor placed on the positive Anode, the long lead, will keep you from burning out your LED's. Also note that the higher the mcd number the brighter the LED will be. I only use white for front lighting and red for back. For flashing, i use blue and green. Hope this helps.

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Damn DumboRC is awesome. A receiver is $15 Canadian but I noticed this:

[CA$12.37 29% OFF]DumboRC X6 Receiver+LED Light DIY System RC Car Parts RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood.com https://www.banggood.com/DumboRC-X6-ReceiverLED-Light-DIY-System-RC-Car-Parts-p-1644836.html

Receiver comes with the LED light kit that connects right into the receiver for $12.47 Canadian plus shipping. And the brake lights work when you hit the brakes. And it does not use any of the 6 channels. The radio and receiver are excellent. I haven’t even messed with the gyro settings yet. It will be great on the Amp MT to keep it from spinning out all the time with brushless power and 2WD. I guess I need to order a couple. ?
 
Ok I got too good a deal so I only ordered one receiver with light kit but also a second transmitter (the rubbery feel X6A) so we can run two at once with good radios) and an extra KS-3518 servo so I will be ready to go with the Arrma or whatever else.

I really need to stop. ?
 
LephTurn, I used that setup on two of my semi clear bodies. I routed all the wires/leds thru and on the chassis cause of all the wiring length. You want to be able to remove the body without having to unplug wiring. Below are the two semi clear RC's I did that too. The blue truck is with head lights and back light all wired to the front bumper and back wheelie bar.


20191018_194658.jpg20191103_181320.jpg20200714_221233.jpg
 
Wow that looks amazing! Great work, that is a piece of art. The second one is what I was thinking, I hadn’t considered anything like what you did with the first one.

Makes sense to route and mount it all to the chassis. I may look at mounting something to the body for a shelf queen/show off body where I won’t mind plugging and unplugging.
 

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