redlightning1687
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i am going to get my first rc car. When I get it do I need to do a break in, and if I do how to I do that.
Thanks,
Ben
Thanks,
Ben
Break in
- Thread starter redlightning1687
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redlightning1687
Member
- Messages
- 11
A 2wd ruckas or amp
i_r_beej
Well-Known Member
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- 993
As a bit of a tightwad myself, I tend to take care of my gear. While it's true that you might outgrow the motor that comes with the Ruckus or AMP, I'd still recommend that you take care to properly break-in the motor before you really start shredding. At the very minimum, I'd suggest that when you first drive your car you drive around at no more than 1/4 throttle for 10 minutes to give the motor brushes and commutator a chance to properly form to each other. If you just floor it without any break-in, you'll scorch the brushes and comm and your motor won't perform as well as it could.
One step up from that method is to prop up your car on stand, bricks, block of wood, whatever, so that the tires can spin freely. Plug in a battery and then turn everything on. Turn the throttle trim up until the motor starts turning. Let it run like this for 10 minutes.
Water break-in method is "best" since the immersion in water prevents sparking and excess material from the brushes is washed away (you'll see the water turn cloudy). However, this method takes a little more prep and you have to re-lubricate the motor shaft bushings afterwards. There is some debate whether or not the cheap motors in RTR vehicles are actually worth this much effort. FWIW I've done this to all three motors that I run in my Boost and AMP (my AMP now runs a 15T 550 motor) and all motors are running smoothly with minimal sparking.
I'd recommend that you pick up a can of "motor spray" (electrical contact cleaner). After driving in dirty or dusty environments, or after every few runs in "clean" environments it's good to flush away the residue from the brushes and it keeps the motor running as best as possible. Dynamite sells a can called "Power Spray." Really hose the motor out, focusing on the commutator and brushes, and once it's evaporated apply a drop of lube to the motor shaft bushings at either end of the motor (Tri-Flow is pretty good for this).
One step up from that method is to prop up your car on stand, bricks, block of wood, whatever, so that the tires can spin freely. Plug in a battery and then turn everything on. Turn the throttle trim up until the motor starts turning. Let it run like this for 10 minutes.
Water break-in method is "best" since the immersion in water prevents sparking and excess material from the brushes is washed away (you'll see the water turn cloudy). However, this method takes a little more prep and you have to re-lubricate the motor shaft bushings afterwards. There is some debate whether or not the cheap motors in RTR vehicles are actually worth this much effort. FWIW I've done this to all three motors that I run in my Boost and AMP (my AMP now runs a 15T 550 motor) and all motors are running smoothly with minimal sparking.
I'd recommend that you pick up a can of "motor spray" (electrical contact cleaner). After driving in dirty or dusty environments, or after every few runs in "clean" environments it's good to flush away the residue from the brushes and it keeps the motor running as best as possible. Dynamite sells a can called "Power Spray." Really hose the motor out, focusing on the commutator and brushes, and once it's evaporated apply a drop of lube to the motor shaft bushings at either end of the motor (Tri-Flow is pretty good for this).
