Buggy wheels for better front traction on the Amp DB

Jeb

Jeb

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West Glover, VT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F14RAD...853d14e22_CT&ref=dra_a_ms_sq_hn_xx_P1400_1000

Anybody tried these on an Amp buggy? My son converted his MT to a DB and is racing it in the kids group at out local track. I feel like the narrower front wheels would give him better steering. He has the rpm servo saver eliminator and metal servo upgrade and just graduated to a 15T brushed Arma motor on a 2c lipo. We race on a very loose dirt/sandy track. Looks like a cheap upgrade that may help. Just curious if anyone else had tried it.
 
I have no experience with those...

Jeb said:
He has the rpm servo saver eliminator and metal servo upgrade and just graduated to a 15T brushed Arma motor on a 2c LiPo.
Click to expand...

However, Your son must have a boring time driving a rig with a battery with such a low discharge rate. :D
 
X said:
I have no experience with those...

However, Your son must have a boring time driving a rig with a battery with such a low discharge rate. :D
Click to expand...

Haha. 2 s 45c. Guess I wrote it wrong. If 2s stands for 2 cell, why do they label it s ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jeb said:
Haha. 2 s 45c. Guess I wrote it wrong. If 2s stands for 2 cell, why do they label it s ?
Click to expand...

It's always confused me as well. Cell count is "s" instead of "c". But "c" doesn't mean capacity like you'd think.....nope, it's discharge rate.

My only assumption is that battery people got drunk and created their own terminology away from everyone else.
 
X said:
It's always confused me as well. Cell count is "s" instead of "c". But "c" doesn't mean capacity like you'd think.....nope, it's discharge rate.

My only assumption is that battery people got drunk and created their own terminology away from everyone else.
Click to expand...
I've also heard most c ratings are highly inaccurate. SMC racing makes true spec packs with a guaranteed c rating. My Tekno sct was melting solder and deans plugs on 45c packs so I put a 90c smc pack in it and have had no more problems. Got really good at soldering in the meantime and got a new tip when switching packs over to deans. Solder the new deans female plug on the battery with a male deans inserted. It keeps the contacts from distorting with the heat of the solder iron. I switched all our trucks and batteries over to deans. Just got tired of adapters between a variety of trucks and batteries.
 
Attention, this is Rumor Control...

The "2" in the LiPo battery designation represents the number of cells. The "S" represents "series." So the battery is 2 cells wired in Series. On less expensive batteries you may even see "2S2P" for 2 cells in series, in parallel (for a total of four physical cells that combine, electrically, to create two "virtual cells" in series). Think of the battery trays in some electronics where you insert 4x AA batteries, two connected end to end (series) and in two rows (parallel). That's 2S2P. :)
 
Getting back on-topic: The AMP DB is really a Stadium Truck with a buggy body. Or, Stadium Trucks are just buggies with a slightly longer wheelbase, much wider tracks, and "truck" type bodies.

So... you best option would be to get some better (softer compound) "truck" tires. "Truck" is different from SCT (Short Course Truck). And a true buggy tire is both narrower and smaller diameter than either type of truck tire. SCT tires will be a little taller and a little narrower than a Truck/Stadium Truck.

Confused yet? What a mess.

What I'd do is go shopping for a new set of Truck/Stadium Truck tires. JConcepts makes some good treads. I'd recommend the "Carver" for the front and the "Double Dee" for the rear. The ribbed tread of the Carvers is Old Skool looking... but they work quite well in dirt/loose surfaces. Get a softer compound for all-around perfomance in loose and hard-pack conditions.

I'd also recommend you stick with ECX wheels unless you know for sure that another brand wheel will fit and not interfere with the steering tie-rod. I bought a set of JConcepts wheels for Associated trucks and the hub offset was so great that I had to add about 6mm of shims to prevent rub- and that only barely and I was out of threads on the front spindles! The ECX Circuit wheels are a perfect fit and are relatively inexpensive and look sharp on the car.
 
i_r_beej said:
Getting back on-topic: The AMP DB is really a Stadium Truck with a buggy body. Or, Stadium Trucks are just buggies with a slightly longer wheelbase, much wider tracks, and "truck" type bodies.

So... you best option would be to get some better (softer compound) "truck" tires. "Truck" is different from SCT (Short Course Truck). And a true buggy tire is both narrower and smaller diameter than either type of truck tire. SCT tires will be a little taller and a little narrower than a Truck/Stadium Truck.

Confused yet? What a mess.

What I'd do is go shopping for a new set of Truck/Stadium Truck tires. JConcepts makes some good treads. I'd recommend the "Carver" for the front and the "Double Dee" for the rear. The ribbed tread of the Carvers is Old Skool looking... but they work quite well in dirt/loose surfaces. Get a softer compound for all-around perfomance in loose and hard-pack conditions.

I'd also recommend you stick with ECX wheels unless you know for sure that another brand wheel will fit and not interfere with the steering tie-rod. I bought a set of JConcepts wheels for Associated trucks and the hub offset was so great that I had to add about 6mm of shims to prevent rub- and that only barely and I was out of threads on the front spindles! The ECX Circuit wheels are a perfect fit and are relatively inexpensive and look sharp on the car.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll look into the circuit wheels. I run proline Badlands on my Amp and they do fit and also have a smaller offset that narrows the stance and helps on the narrow track we run on. I don't want to spend that much on my son's buggy, he's still learning and progressing well. His lap time tonight was 28 seconds which is where I was 2 months ago. I broke my person record and pulled a 22. Yeehaw! It was wicked dry and loose tonight as well. We did a bunch of tests with spring rate and shock oil and it seemed to pay off with our times.
 
i_r_beej said:
Attention, this is Rumor Control...

The "2" in the LiPo battery designation represents the number of cells. The "S" represents "series." So the battery is 2 cells wired in Series. On less expensive batteries you may even see "2S2P" for 2 cells in series, in parallel (for a total of four physical cells that combine, electrically, to create two "virtual cells" in series). Think of the battery trays in some electronics where you insert 4x AA batteries, two connected end to end (series) and in two rows (parallel). That's 2S2P. :)
Click to expand...

The worst part is I knew that.....just wasn't thinking at all...... Thanks for being the voice of reason @i_r_beej!
 
I figured you did, @X, hence my "Rumor Control" joke. :)
 
Jeb said:
I've also heard most c ratings are highly inaccurate. SMC racing makes true spec packs with a guaranteed c rating. My Tekno sct was melting solder and deans plugs on 45c packs so I put a 90c smc pack in it and have had no more problems. Got really good at soldering in the meantime and got a new tip when switching packs over to deans. Solder the new deans female plug on the battery with a male deans inserted. It keeps the contacts from distorting with the heat of the solder iron. I switched all our trucks and batteries over to deans. Just got tired of adapters between a variety of trucks and batteries.
Click to expand...

Where do you get your deans ends from? I was thinking of doing the same thing myself as we have such a mix between all our rigs.
 

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