Converting the AMP MT to a Circuit ST (to race!)

A 3660 3200kv motor would rip stock driveshafts and plastic diffs. A 15t 540 motor on stock nimh batteries with the stock 2 in 1 esc/rx is about all you can get stock which should be a little more fun than the stock 20t.
Metal gear tranny, diff, and Slash 4x4 driveshafts and stub axles and he will be ready to rock and roll.
 
Metal gear tranny, diff, and Slash 4x4 driveshafts and stub axles and he will be ready to rock and roll.

New receiver and/or tx/rx combo also. I think for right now @RazorRC is looking to keep this on a smaller budget (part of a budget build) for right now but I might be wrong. If funds allow I would recommend almost always going brushless but sometimes you just want to try to work with what you got (budget).
 
New receiver and/or tx/rx combo also. I think for right now @RazorRC is looking to keep this on a smaller budget (part of a budget build) for right now but I might be wrong. If funds allow I would recommend going brushless almost always but sometimes you just want to try to work with what you got (budget).
I understand the whole budget build thing. I may have jumped the gun a bit. My apologies to Razor.

I just saw a video from a guy who has the new Brutus monster truck and stripped out the plastic idler gear on the first run. That truck comes with a 12T 550 sized brushed motor. Perhaps the plastic tranny can't handle anything more than a 15T.
 
I have done all electric upgrades too my amp now ready too do the shocks a arms links all that what are all the links for metal or aluminum upgrades from the amp
 
I have done all electric upgrades too my amp now ready too do the shocks a arms links all that what are all the links for metal or aluminum upgrades from the amp
I'm guessing you're asking what are the best metal links to use for camber and steering? It's hard to tell from your question since it's a run on sentence with no punctuation.
 
@Love4$peed if you are asking for recommendations for metal links (steering, camber) please see post #34 in this thread.

I started with Associated links for the camber links but the ball-and-cup was prone to popping off. I found the Traxxas captured ball turnbuckles to be better suited to the job. They've held up well.
 
I can second that. The traxxas captured end links and adjustable rods are very nice and fairly easy to install, no issues yet and are installed on 3 Torments. Front and rear.

I think it was I-r-beej's recommendation at the time. (y)
 
I'm using the Traxxas captured camber links front and rear, but I'm using associated ball cups on the steering to help protect the steering servo. The truck has taken quite a few tumbles and even a couple of cartwheels but the ball Cups have yet to pop off.
 
I'll second @MaX-D setup: I left the ball cups on the steering links to help protect the steering servo (since I don't use a servo saver).
 
i just upgraded my grandsons amp mt to a goolrc 3650 3500kv motor and 60amp esc combo. it sure is alot faster. maybe the plastic tranny gears will hold up. thinking about upgraded or changing shocks the stock plastic ones are pretty leaky. i dont want to spend $34 dollars a pair for the aluminum body ecx shocks that's a bit overpriced to me. you said the traxxas big bore shocks dont swivel? but i think they are super nice shocks. my friend has them on his slash and they are really smooth.
 
Building up an ecx amp mt. Going all out with it.
MIP driveshaft
RPM carriers and suspension arms
Metal gears
Hobbywing 3660/3200
Proline powerstroke shocks
HR servo saver

I haven't gotten to drive it much and I haven't installed the Proline shocks yet. Mounting kit will be here in 2 days, then I can really test her out :)
 

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Building up an ecx amp mt. Going all out with it.
MIP driveshaft
RPM carriers and suspension arms
Metal gears
Hobbywing 3660/3200
Proline powerstroke shocks
HR servo saver

I haven't gotten to drive it much and I haven't installed the Proline shocks yet. Mounting kit will be here in 2 days, then I can really test her out :)
What is on the bottom of the chassis? What is it made out of? That's pretty slick.
 
26g steel, it took some time with an an angle grinder. Drilled holes so i could service it without removing the plate and attached it with goop
 

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I'd honestly just go with Taxxas HD drivesshafts. You need a weak link somewhere in your drivetrain incase you bind up. I used to run an all metal setup and learned that lesson the hard way. Additionally, metal driveshafts add a substantial amount of weight to run, your performance will be lower as it will stress your motor much more.

Just my 2 cents. Sweet chassis though.​
 
I'd honestly just go with Taxxas HD drivesshafts. You need a weak link somewhere in your drivetrain incase you bind up. I used to run an all metal setup and learned that lesson the hard way. Additionally, metal driveshafts add a substantial amount of weight to run, your performance will be lower as it will stress your motor much more.

Just my 2 cents. Sweet chassis though.​
I concur. The mip driveshaft was a tough call. I wanted to stick with plastic gears and use a light drivesshaft, use the slipper to protect the plastic gears.
I finally got it up and running. I do a lot of tight driving on asphalt. If/when I blow the gears ill let everyone know. I'm hoping that a soft slipper and nickel batteries will spare my drivetrain. Still have a plastic spur gear so hopefully that will be my weak link ?
 
I concur. The mip driveshaft was a tough call. I wanted to stick with plastic gears and use a light drivesshaft, use the slipper to protect the plastic gears.
I finally got it up and running. I do a lot of tight driving on asphalt. If/when I blow the gears ill let everyone know. I'm hoping that a soft slipper and nickel batteries will spare my drivetrain. Still have a plastic spur gear so hopefully that will be my weak link ?

Whats that wire coming out the back of the motor? Is it a temp sensor? A 3660 in 3200kv seems perfect for these trucks. You run 3s or 2s? 3s would be fine with temps on that (for the most part).
 
Whats that wire coming out the back of the motor? Is it a temp sensor? A 3660 in 3200kv seems perfect for these trucks. You run 3s or 2s? 3s would be fine with temps on that (for the most part).

That is the temp sensor. I'm using the old nickel batteries. It has enough power for me with the esc turned down to 3 on the punch. I'm using an 18t pinion.
I like to set a few cones out and do figure eights. I can put them about five feet apart and drift within inches around the outside. This is on asphalt with a lot of traction.
Im sure ill upgrade eventually ?
 

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