ECX232000 any diy repair? from Europe

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bi555

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Dear all

We have broken the fork which connect the transmission shaft from differential to wheel.
Unfortunately there is oly the complete couple of shaft kit which cost about 30 euros. Anyone have has been able to repair it or do you know any metal upgrade while I'm in the situation to change it? Thanks for help
I live in Europe so American shops are very expensive solution due to transport cost.

Thanks for help or suggestions
 
Hi there!
There are two options:
1:The rear driveshafts from a Traxxas Slash (#6852X); plastic, but tougher than the ECX items. The only modification you will have to make, is to drill out the bit that goes on to the shaft from the diff. The reason for that, is ECX uses round shafts, whilst Traxxas uses slotted shafts. About 10 seconds of work, and the axles hold up really well.
2: this kit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000329818965.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4a094c4dNx2YtW
I currently have them on both my Torments, both Ruckusses, Circuits and i have a spare set for my AMP DB. Not too cheap, but not expensive either. Plus, when you look for this item on ali, chance is that you may find them cheaper.
Just be sure to put some heatshrink over the springs on the axles, to prevent the springs from moving, thus enabling the lock pin to be forced out.
When running a fairly strong brushless set on 3s tends to stress certain parts ;)

I hope this helps.
-Dave
 
Dear VonDave take a look... Seems they are the same. What you think?

€ 7,24 10%OFF | CVD Steel Front & Rear Drive Shaft Assembly Heavy Duty For 1/10 Traxxas Slash 4x4 Stampede VXL 2WD 6851R 6851X 6852R 6852X

https://a.aliexpress.com/_uIiMON
 
bi555 said:
Dear VonDave take a look... Seems they are the same. What you think?

€ 7,24 10%OFF | CVD Steel Front & Rear Drive Shaft Assembly Heavy Duty For 1/10 Traxxas Slash 4x4 Stampede VXL 2WD 6851R 6851X 6852R 6852X

https://a.aliexpress.com/_uIiMON
Click to expand...
I have a pair of those installed on my wife's AMP MT. They're ok. Thing to note is that it's better to apply heatshrink on the springs to prevent the lockpins from being forced out.
When you order these, please be certain that you have chosen the REAR axles; the front will NOT fit ;)
 
Yes rear I have already notice that and thanks to point my attention on. Anyway I don't understand what you mean when you say to apply heat shrink on the springs. ammo springs have nothing to do so I'm surely misunderstanding something
 
In the picture below you can see what I mean.It's the same fix for both types of axles.
At the end points of the axles, there's a spring on the shaft. That spring lies in an indentation in the shaft, to make it more difficult for the spring to be able to "jump out" from the intended position. When you remove the spring, you will see lock pin from the joint of the axle (moving part). When you put a lot of torque through the axle (too strong motor for instance), the force of the rotation will force the pin to exit the shaft through the winding of the spring.
So, you take a piece of heat shrink that is a bit too small to fit over the axle.
Stretch it a bit with the use of some needle nose pliers.
Stretch it just as much as needed to use a bit of force to slide it over the spring area.
Make sure that the piece of heatshrink is wide enough to fully cover the spring and about 3 mm left and right of the spring. That way, you will have a proper seal.
Because the piece of heat shrink is a bit too small, when you do heat it, it will shrink more than a piece that was bigger than the diameter of the shaft. This will ensure a real tight seal around the spring!
If you do it correctly, you will even see the contours of the spring through the heat shrink. That will ensure that the winding of the spring cannot be altered by the rotational force. To furthermore strengthen the fix, apply another piece of heat shrink over the already applied piece. This time 1 size bigger (diameter of the heat shrink) is recommended.

That's the fix I ave applied on ALL my steel drive shafts!
The drive shaft you posted, is actually the first type that I've modified...
They were on my Torment in the first place, but after the pin got ejected, I decided to buy the type that you see in the picture below.
However, having 3s on my Ruckus, and only 2s on the original ECX brushless Ruckus from my son (with a bigger pinion) gave me the same issue...
That's why I have come up with this fix, and so farit has performed very well ;)

I hope this explanation clears things up a bit.

-Dave
20210407_213137.jpg
 
Ok now is really clear and your suggestion is very smart. I never had that problem in the past but I had lot of problems with the screws which unscrew so I lost shafts and screws. This because I don't want to use glue or loctite. The small screws which fix them have some strange measure so with metrical hex or torx they are always too small or too large. I think they maybe are imperial dimensions holes. I always have so many problems to unscrew the original to upgrade to metal that I don't want to use glue. Now I'm trying the polish nail just suggested to me two days ago and your idea is really good too to prevent undesired unscrew for any shaft which has enough room around.

Thanks again so much for your help and super detailed explanation!
 
A SMALL amount of Loctite 222 (purple) will keep your screws from undoing themselves and still allow you to remove them with the proper tool. Having said that, if they are LMU screws you will need LMU tools.

LMU? Oh, sorry! There are 195 countries in the World. Only 3 of them do not use the metric system, Liberia, Myanmar, and the USA.
 
Thunderdonkey said:
A SMALL amount of Loctite 222 (purple) will keep your screws from undoing themselves and still allow you to remove them with the proper tool. Having said that, if they are LMU screws you will need LMU tools.

LMU? Oh, sorry! There are 195 countries in the World. Only 3 of them do not use the metric system, Liberia, Myanmar, and the USA.
Click to expand...
You said USA snd I think the most of chinese parts snd cars are fir USA market. I'm pretty sure the screws are imperial
 
VonDave said:
I have a pair of those installed on my wife's AMP MT. They're ok. Thing to note is that it's better to apply heatshrink on the springs to prevent the lockpins from being forced out.
When you order these, please be certain that you have chosen the REAR axles; the front will NOT fit ;)
Click to expand...
Dear @VonDave as usual chinese seller makes lot of confusion between black and white. Descriptions often doesn't match picture and viceversa. Do you know if the attached picture is front or rear? Some shop writes front some other writes rear
 

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bi555 said:
You said USA snd I think the most of chinese parts snd cars are fir USA market. I'm pretty sure the screws are imperial
Click to expand...
Then I suggest you buy a set of Imperial Allen keys so that you won't damage the screws. I am sure that there will be other non-metric screws to undo in the future!
 
bi555 said:
Dear @VonDave as usual chinese seller makes lot of confusion between black and white. Descriptions often doesn't match picture and viceversa. Do you know if the attached picture is front or rear? Some shop writes front some other writes rear
Click to expand...
They are for the rear. I have a couple of these, mainly because there are NO front axles from this version😉
 

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