Ok.....so this happened....

Well hopefully a new reciever works for you. Might not. I installed a goolrc tg3 transmitter and reciever on my son's truck, and still wasn't getting full throttle. So I tried every calibration method I could think of, and it worked. Of course instead of trying 1 method and testing, I just went nuts and did them all, figured I'd either fix it or really mess it up. First time I turned it on, had full throttle, but the failsafe(when you turn off the transmitter to mimic lost signal) damn thing kept going forward (I was holding the bind button down in 1 of my attempts to calibrate). So I rebinded the reciever, and it's all good now. Should have just did 1 process at a time to figure out what fixed it. To be honest, I don't know if I calibrated the esc to the reciever, or somehow increased my throttle end point. If you still have issues, I can throw the stock radio system back on and figure out how to do it, I think...
 
I think I may have "fixed" one problem (with your awesome help) and then I caused another problem. LOL
I got the new receivers in the other day. Ones that were suggested here on the forums.
They are mini 3-channel receivers. They are tiny.
They did not come with any binding instructions, so I assumed binding was based off the transmitter.
So I did as the transmitter said, and it wouldn't bind, needless to say I was a bit annoyed at this, and felt like throwing the darn thing in the trash. LOL
I messed around with binding this thing like for half an hour, finally I reverted back to the original transmitter instructions, held my tounge in the right position, and told it it had better bind or I was going to melt it down to a puddle on the garage floor.
For what ever reason it worked.

I plugged it all in and left the receiver loose on the chassis to just do a back and forward run in the garage.
I could still tell it had a higher pitch, in reverse, as if it had higher RPM's. So I swapped the motor wires and flipped the throttle switch on the transmitter. It has seemed to come alive more so than before, albeit still not convinced it is %100 though. It is faster, although no wheelie popping events yet.

So I will keep poking it, but I have seemed to kind of fixed it?

But then I thought I would tackle the springiness of the servo saver and apply the zip tie method to tighteneing up the springiness.
While doing so, I must have tightened up one screw way too much, now it doesn't turn the wheels at all, as if it's in a jam.......
Maybe I should have just left it alone......…..

SR3100.jpg
 
But then I thought I would tackle the springiness of the servo saver and apply the zip tie method to tighteneing up the springiness. While doing so, I must have tightened up one screw way too much, now it doesn't turn the wheels at all, as if it's in a jam.......
Maybe I should have just left it alone......….

Haha, I think we've all been there when tinkering with the servo saver. That's one of those situations where it should be tightened, but not tight. Tighten the screws while moving the assembly. When it starts to bind it, back off a little.
 
I wasn't the person who suggested it, but I've always seen people use Nitro fuel line. That is generally 3/32 ID. You place it between the shock piston and the bottom of the shock body on the shock shaft.

I'd take a caliper to whatever shocks you're using and measure the OD of the shaft.
Will that keep it from flipping so easily?
 
Will that keep it from flipping so easily?

The intent of the mod is to help that issue, but what's happening in the suspension is a lot more complicated than just install tubing - won't flip. It's so cheap and easy (and your shocks probably need clean and re-oil anyway), just do it and see how it works for you.
 

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