Replacing/upgrading front camber links-with photos!

i_r_beej

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Okay, so I purchased a couple pair of Associated steel turnbuckles (#6263) at a LHS. They were 2.06" (52.3mm) in length. I only just managed to fit one last night and I had to position the ball studs in the two holes farthest apart on the car (the stock plastic link uses the two closest together holes). After threading the RPM rod ends on, there is maybe 3 threads exposed on each side of the turnbuckle. I haven't yet checked the camber and I'm not even sure I'll have enough available adjustment.

If you've done this, has this been your experience? Did you have enough room for 5-6 degrees of negative camber adjustment?
 
Part of my frustration with upgrading the camber links on the ECX Boost to a turnbuckle system is that NO ONE listed part numbers or lengths. After lots of searching on the Internet, "Associated turnbuckles for a B4 will work" is as close as it got.

After replacing the stock plastic front camber links with the 2.06" (52.3mm) long steel turnbuckles (Associated #6263) I was unhappy with the limited available adjustment for negative camber. The link was mounted to ball studs installed in the inboard position on the shock tower and the outboard position on the caster block-- these positions allow for the longest camber link but I found the lack of available negative camber adjustment unacceptable.
ae-turnbuckles-installed-ecx-boost.jpg

I switched to a shorter 1.65" (41.3mm) Associated turnbuckle (Associated #6262) for the front camber links and this yielded more available adjustability for negative camber. The link is now mounted to the "stock" mounting holes (the outboard position on the shock tower and the inboard position on the caster block). Approximately 1/3 of the threads are still exposed on either side of the turnbuckle which leaves plenty of room for camber adjustability.

In the photo below you can see the 2.06" turnbuckle at the top, then the stock rear camber link, then the 1.65" turnbuckle assembly, and finally the stock front camber link.

associated-turnbuckles-comparison-ecx-boost.jpg

I moved the 2.06" long turnbuckle assembly to the steering tie-rods and they are the perfect length with plenty of room for toe-in adjustment.
 
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Initially a revo-type was my first preference but after comparing various rod ends at my LHS, I felt that the "ball and cup" type was the most compact design and would offer the most clearance for the wheel. I will likely try some revo type. Nothing like real-world experience. :)
 
I know this is an old one, just curious the follow-up of your revo-type turnbuckles.

I understand the price, or how much work goes into this upgrade of the front end of the Boost. I am in the process of upgrading my daughter's boost for racing it this summer.
 
I never did install Traxxas links on my Boost. However, I did install a pair on my Circuit. Front end impacts were bending the swing arms enough to cause the AE turnbuckles/RPM ball cups to pop off. The Traxxas rod ends are not designed to pop off (so I worry a little about a really strong hit permanently damaging the mounting holes on the shock tower and camber blocks.
 
I’m doing this right now. Using captured ends everywhere except where it connects the the steering bell. I want those to pop on a bad hit to protect the servo a bit. I have already eliminated the servo saver, so I figured some level of protection is better than nothing.
 
Nice, an update of actual brand and sizes would be nice.
I put the associated B4 front end on. So much nicer. Everything is a swap.
 
Nice, an update of actual brand and sizes would be nice.
I put the associated B4 front end on. So much nicer. Everything is a swap.

I did this on my Ruckus. (2) 2.62 and (4) 2.80 for front and rear. But it’s different for stadium trucks or buggies. The captured ends are the same regardless of length.
 

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