Ruckus 2WD 1/10 Transmission Issue

KiwiDriver

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6
Hi guys
Really new into RC cars but been flying planes and choppers for 30 years.
Got the Ruckus 1/10 from the LHS and soon upgraded it with a set they had, its a 60A ESC with a 4300kv Thunder Storm motor. My first issue was blowing apart the right hand side drive shaft (repeatedly) . So I replaced it with some metal ones. Now I am having an issue getting the power from the motor out to the wheels.
I will link a YouTube video so you can see what I mean, any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Chris from New Zealand
 
The wheel hex on the left axle looks loose. I believe those axles have grub screws that secures the hex to the axle make sure the grub screws are tight and set on the flat part of the axle.
 
That was quick, tyvm, I'll go take a look. I dont think the axle has a flat on it (there are 2 grub screws) I might make my own flat
 
That was quick, tyvm, I'll go take a look. I dont think the axle has a flat on it (there are 2 grub screws) I might make my own flat

I am not sure what you have what do you have a part no. for the axles? Anyway the left axle is spinning but the wheel is barely moving something is not right on the left side whether it be the hex or possibly the hex on the wheel could be stripped.
 

OK, so the hex was tight, I was barely holding it with the pliers and the axel wasnt spinning in it (just resting really) something in the gear box? all the gears look fine, I opened the diff gear but don't really know what Im looking at or how its meant to behave.
 

OK, so the hex was tight, I was barely holding it with the pliers and the axel wasnt spinning in it (just resting really) something in the gear box? all the gears look fine, I opened the diff gear but don't really know what Im looking at or how its meant to behave.

You don't want to hold the axle like that and run it you can mess up the diff. Your causing the diff to unload on side the side with the least resistance. I would get the metal gear diff set if you have not already if anything for peace of mind. I have run a 3660 4300kv motor on the metal diff on 3s (sometimes) on the same diff for a couple of years now but have a 3650 4300kv motor in it now.
 
cool, ill go see my local shop. Cheers
I can stop them spinning with my fingers which is why the wheels wont drive the car forward, even the weight of the car is too much. :(
I suspect its the diff too tho, so getting the metal one can't hurt.
 
Yeah my plastic diff did not last that long in my Circuit when I went brushless I did not even bother to run the Ruckus with the stock plastic diff when I went brushless on it just went ahead and replaced the plastic diff set with the metal one.
 
Yeah my plastic diff did not last that long in my Circuit when I went brushless I did not even bother to run the Ruckus with the stock plastic diff when I went brushless on it just went ahead and replaced the plastic diff set with the metal one.


Whats the info on the metal one ? Cant seem to find it sorry
 
Not trying to talk down to you, but did you put the pin back in to the axle stub before you slid the hex back on?
No pin in those axles. Set screws hold it on a flat spot like a motor pinion. Then you have a crush washer to install between the bearings because the hex will put more pressure on the bearings. Not having a hole in the axle stub for the pin takes away the weak point of the axle.
 
No pin in those axles. Set screws hold it on a flat spot like a motor pinion. Then you have a crush washer to install between the bearings because the hex will put more pressure on the bearings. Not having a hole in the axle stub for the pin takes away the weak point of the axle.
Gotcha. Thanks. I haven’t come across one like that yet. All the driveshafts I’ve broken, broke at one of the universal joints.
 
Hi guys
Really new into RC cars but been flying planes and choppers for 30 years.
Got the Ruckus 1/10 from the LHS and soon upgraded it with a set they had, its a 60A ESC with a 4300kv Thunder Storm motor. My first issue was blowing apart the right hand side drive shaft (repeatedly) . So I replaced it with some metal ones. Now I am having an issue getting the power from the motor out to the wheels.
I will link a YouTube video so you can see what I mean, any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Chris from New Zealand
You have a pin on the end of the axle over that you have a plastic hex drive nut that is plastic. It drives the inside of the wheel. When you go to a brushless set and you tighten up the axle nut that holds on the wheel you must use locktight. That nut came loose and now the plastic hex drive and inside of the rim is stripped out. The only other thing that may have happened is the pin that the hex nut sets on fell out or it wasnt put in.
 
The wheel hex on the left axle looks loose. I believe those axles have grub screws that secures the hex to the axle make sure the grub screws are tight and set on the flat part of the axle.
It is only a lose fit roll pin that the hex sets on.
 

OK, so the hex was tight, I was barely holding it with the pliers and the axel wasnt spinning in it (just resting really) something in the gear box? all the gears look fine, I opened the diff gear but don't really know what Im looking at or how its meant to behave.
The hex has to have a pin to set on to drive the wheel. And make sure when you tighten the wheel nut use blue locktight
 
You have a pin on the end of the axle over that you have a plastic hex drive nut that is plastic. It drives the inside of the wheel. When you go to a brushless set and you tighten up the axle nut that holds on the wheel you must use locktight. That nut came loose and now the plastic hex drive and inside of the rim is stripped out. The only other thing that may have happened is the pin that the hex nut sets on fell out or it wasnt put in.
It is only a lose fit roll pin that the hex sets on.
The hex has to have a pin to set on to drive the wheel. And make sure when you tighten the wheel nut use blue locktight

No hex pins on the steel HR axles he's using SECT288x06 .

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