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KyleRC
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 315
Try adding shock preload spacers. I have noticed that that trying to keep the suspension arms level has good results with handling.
Try dropping the car about 8 inches above the ground (with the battery and stuff on so it’s the same weight and stuff you will be driving it with) once the suspension settles check to see if the arms are close to level if they are sagging try adding preload spacers and if it’s too stiff try removing them.
On the other hand shock fluid shouldn’t have anything to do with the ride height of the vehicle. But it has a MAJOR role in how the vehicle performs and handles while driving if your shock fluid is too low or none at all, suspension response will be very inconsistent or make the car “bouncy” and the cassis will “slap” hitting large bumps or jumps causing damage to the chassis over time not to mention it is hard to drive with.
If you shock fluid is too high (or way too thick) you could damage the shock body break E-clips or blow off shock caps leaving a nasty mess. Thicker shock fluids are used more often in racing (in my ruckus I should be running fluid weights 40+ in the front and 35+ In the back...but off course I don’t, god knows) thicker fluids deliver slower suspension response and makes the car feel smoother on corners and offers better performance on smoother higher grip surfaces.
If you plan on changing shock fluid anyway I would recommend around 30wt in the front and 27-30wt in the back.
Try dropping the car about 8 inches above the ground (with the battery and stuff on so it’s the same weight and stuff you will be driving it with) once the suspension settles check to see if the arms are close to level if they are sagging try adding preload spacers and if it’s too stiff try removing them.
On the other hand shock fluid shouldn’t have anything to do with the ride height of the vehicle. But it has a MAJOR role in how the vehicle performs and handles while driving if your shock fluid is too low or none at all, suspension response will be very inconsistent or make the car “bouncy” and the cassis will “slap” hitting large bumps or jumps causing damage to the chassis over time not to mention it is hard to drive with.
If you shock fluid is too high (or way too thick) you could damage the shock body break E-clips or blow off shock caps leaving a nasty mess. Thicker shock fluids are used more often in racing (in my ruckus I should be running fluid weights 40+ in the front and 35+ In the back...but off course I don’t, god knows) thicker fluids deliver slower suspension response and makes the car feel smoother on corners and offers better performance on smoother higher grip surfaces.
If you plan on changing shock fluid anyway I would recommend around 30wt in the front and 27-30wt in the back.
i_r_beej
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 993
I'm going to second what KyleRC suggests. The "problem" you are experiencing is that you don't have the ride height set correctly-- you do this by inserting the black plastic "C clips" that came with your kit. You clip those on to the shock bodies and they push the spring down a little.
With the battery in your truck, add or remove spacers until the suspension arms on your truck are level with the ground (or angled slightly downward, from the center of the car out to the wheels).
The stock plastic shocks are actually pretty good so I'd suggest keeping them!
With the battery in your truck, add or remove spacers until the suspension arms on your truck are level with the ground (or angled slightly downward, from the center of the car out to the wheels).
The stock plastic shocks are actually pretty good so I'd suggest keeping them!
