Screws in front hubs keep coming out.

[P0SEID0N2025]

The screws in my front steering hubs have fallen out about 3-4 times. Do the rpm hubs fix that or do i need to get aluminum ones from hot racing and locktite them to fix it?

If the rpm hubs fix the problem, can i just buy the rpm hubs and mount them on the stock a arms or do i need the whole rpm suspension setup?

 

[Aunion]

I run RPM rear hubs as steering knuckles. Long M3 screw/washer/RPM C-Hub/metal sleeve/rear RPM hub/metal sleeve/washer/M3 nylock nut. I'll post pictures if you want me to. I saw it in "still missing" URC, but the guy used HPI parts. I started using OE spares till the bearings blew up.
Some days ago I saw pictures here of a similar set-up, can't remember wich thread.
Edit: You need adjustable turnbuckles, I don't think OE plastic links will be long enough.

View attachment 3026

Here you are. Rear hubs working really good as steering knuckles. Another pic, mounted.
View attachment 3027

I was really tired of loosing shoulder screws and that's the way I've solved it.

I'm not able to add links, sorry.

 

[Aunion]

I forgot to add it's a Ruckus, but I think they're the same in the steering.

 

[Grimmson]

I dont know but I would get the rpm steering hubs for the bearing upgrade. Its better plastic so i could see it holding the screw in better. Im using the HR caster blocks and stock turnbuckles. Only put about 6 packs through this setup but everything is still snug. You shouldn't need to replace the stock parts to install an rpm hub but you will need new, bigger bearings

 

[Aunion]

I'm afraid the RPM steering knuckles hold the step screws in a worse way than the stock ones. RPM plastic is softer and more flexible, that's the way it's ( almost ) indestructible.
I suffered the lost of the step screws twice with the RPM, and took the piece of advice of a guy in the missing (and missed ) URC forum. I've bashed the hell of my Ruckus since then, no problems so far.
IMHO there's two ways of forgetting about losing steering screws. One, use rear knuckles as in the picture ( not necessarily RPM, stock ones serve as well) and some spacers with a longer screw and a locknut. Two, get some aluminium/aluminum ones (depending if you're UK or US...) and some blue threadlock in the steering screws.
I don't like "purpose made" screws like the ones in the steering, less if they're prone to get lost easily, and it's still worse when neither your LHS nor any hardware shop stocks them when you need them the most...
I almost forget to add that you need metal turnbuckles with the first option, usually Team Associated or Traxxas do the work.
Sorry for the long thread and about my English, I'm Spanish??.
Hope it helps.

 

[Grimmson]

I'm afraid the RPM steering knuckles hold the step screws in a worse way than the stock ones. RPM plastic is softer and more flexible, that's the way it's ( almost ) indestructible.
I suffered the lost of the step screws twice with the RPM, and took the piece of advice of a guy in the missing (and missed ) URC forum. I've bashed the hell of my Ruckus since then, no problems so far.
IMHO there's two ways of forgetting about losing steering screws. One, use rear knuckles as in the picture ( not necessarily RPM, stock ones serve as well) and some spacers with a longer screw and a locknut. Two, get some aluminium/aluminum ones (depending if you're UK or US...) and some blue threadlock in the steering screws.
I don't like "purpose made" screws like the ones in the steering, less if they're prone to get lost easily, and it's still worse when neither your LHS nor any hardware shop stocks them when you need them the most...
I almost forget to add that you need metal turnbuckles with the first option, usually Team Associated or Traxxas do the work.
Sorry for the long thread and about my English, I'm Spanish??.
Hope it helps.

I think your method is 100× better than stock fasteners. If my setup has any advantage over stock it might be in the aluminum caster blocks. Stock and rpm plastic caster blocks might have more grip on the screw where it should be able to move freely. This would allow the screw to come loose or rather forced loose from friction in the caster blocks

 

[Lephturn]

If you are losing shoulder screws you have been over tightening them. I have only lost one and I hit a boulder at high speed with only the right front tire. LHS had a set of replacement hubs/knuckles and shoulder screws. They are cheap so have an extra bag of each. This is my designed failure point with cheap spare parts. I’d rather replace $3 worth of parts than have it stronger and break other bits.

 

[P0SEID0N2025]

I decided to just locktite the screws ? it worked ?

 

[Lephturn]

If it works it works. ?

 

[Grimmson]

If you are losing shoulder screws you have been over tightening them. I have only lost one and I hit a boulder at high speed with only the right front tire. LHS had a set of replacement hubs/knuckles and shoulder screws. They are cheap so have an extra bag of each. This is my designed failure point with cheap spare parts. I’d rather replace $3 worth of parts than have it stronger and break other bits.

Could also be that I dont over tighten. I disconnected the linkage to the servo and make sure there's no drag when I manually turn the wheel. Snug up the screw as you move the wheel back and forth. Once it starts to drag back it off a little. This is how I tighten all my suspension/steering parts

 

[Grimmson]

I decided to just locktite the screws ? it worked ?

I've read that you shouldn't use lock tight on plastic but I read into it and found that blue lock tight is recommended for most plastics while red shouldn't be used on plastic...ever! Using blue lock tight will probably work without a problem. Just a side note. I was warned about red lock tight when I was a boy. I stayed away from the stuff till recently. Stripped a bolt trying to disassemble the part with red lock tight... wouldn't ever use again unless I knew I'd never have to disassemble it.

 

[MaX-D]

I put super glue or tire glue on the small shoulder screw threads. It holds great.

 

[12sTorment]

I use axial Front steering knuckles, if you look closely I put the screws in from the inside of the knuckle and then put the axle in to prevent the screws from coming out. I have never had a problem and my car goes at least 100mph. Hard wipeouts and barrel rolls and they still hold up. Most of my car is made from Axial parts. My rear knuckles are front Metal axial steering knuckles turned side ways. They use a bigger inside bearing that is found on your differential as well. The only thing is you have to use 4x4 ECX axles OR axial axles. Most, if not all of my upgrades come from an axial wraith or scx10 and a few Arrma parts.

 

[Lephturn]

Holy ... is that 12S? ?

 

[12sTorment]

Kind of lol, it’s a dual 6s setup with wild gearing. (1.1.1) all the gears are mod1 and 32 tooth. I’ll see if I make and upload a video of it in action. My plan this winter is to get a tp power motor mount it mid chassis, and get a different style differential. Dual motor systems aren’t as efficient as a single motor but the torque it stupid. I have a hard time just getting it up to 20 or so, after that it’s a lot easier to control. It just wants to spin tires until it’s up to speed.

TP 4070-CM 1400KV (12S) is the motor I’m getting.

right now I’m using two blx200 and two 2050kv 6s motors, and two 6s batteries.