Second Amp MT

valve90210

Well-Known Member
Messages
101
Having read good things about the Amp MT I purchased one a few weeks ago for my 5 year old son to drive while I messed about with my old Tamiya Fighter Buggy RX and my brother drive his buggy.

I enjoyed the building process and my son loves driving it. Having prised the controller out of his hands for few runs I found the Amp to be amazing fun and made the decision that it would be nice for me to have one the same as my little man so we could enjoy them both together (and I really enjoyed using his but he won't let me get much time on it...lol)

So, this weekend I built my own MT. Again the build process was great, the kit is really well put together and the instructions great. I think I had one incorrect screw which didn't cause any problems at all.

Having experienced the draw backs of the stock servo on the steering I had decided that I'd be replacing that from the start and also adding the RPM Servo Saver Eliminator (SSE). The servo I went for (after advice from this forum from those available to me) was a Power HD 9001 metal geared servo.

The change of servo slowed things very slightly as the pieces that hold the servo in place didn't quite fit into the holes on the servo but that was solved witha little bit of sanding on the servo.

The SSE was simple to assemble and feels well made. I used the supplied plastic bushings as I was having paypal issues the other day when I wanted to order bearings and couldn't get them delivered in time. I may get them at some point in the future though I don't feel the steering has suffered from using the bearings at all.

The rest of the build was as per the manual and was just as rewarding the second time around.

Instead of the supplied 20t I opted to install an Absima Eco Thrust 15t motor as I wanted a little more pace for my truck which I could dial down a little if driving about with my little man to make things fairer.

I've not had much of a chance to give it a run beyond some gentle running to help break the motor in and a bit of time on tarmac carparks but i cna already tell that the steering is hugely improved. the steering lock is better, it's much faster and more positive and snaps back to centred when the steering is released, something which doesn't always happen with the stock servo! It's so much better I will definitely be upgrading my son's one when I have the time.

On the speed front, i had previously measured my son's truck using my mobile phone and had hit a max speed of 16mph. A quick speed test with the same phone with my truck with the 15t gave a max speed of 25mph, that's with using a 3500mAh Nimh! Not a bad improvement for an outlay of £7.55! As I say I've not had a chance to give it a full testign yet but the motor seems to be running a little warmer than the 20t, no real surprise but I shall keep an eye on the temps and see how it goes.

Not taken a decent photo as yet but watch this space, until then, here's a quick snap of it:

20170306_082331.jpg
 
Last edited:
Good stuff. My 20t motors always got real hot when running in my not so well kept lawn, perhaps you may have to be careful in those conditions.

I also have two amps, for me and my son. And like yours, mine is modded so I can always keep an edge :D
 
I have the RPM steering bellcrank in two cars: Boost and Circuit. I went nuts with the Boost installation and used bearings. In the Circuit I stayed with the supplied Delrin plastic bushings. Honestly, I can't tell the difference when moving the assembly by hand. Delrin is a slippery material and it's going to have very little meaningful friction on the metal parts of the steering assembly. Nothing wrong with installing bearings but I'd put that money towards a LiPo battery and LVM (low voltage monitor/alarm).
 
Good stuff. My 20t motors always got real hot when running in my not so well kept lawn, perhaps you may have to be careful in those conditions.

I also have two amps, for me and my son. And like yours, mine is modded so I can always keep an edge :D

I've not had too much of an issue with temps on the 20t; though it has been cold when I've been running the cars of late so that may have some bearing on it but yeah I will be keeping an eye on temps.

I have the RPM steering bellcrank in two cars: Boost and Circuit. I went nuts with the Boost installation and used bearings. In the Circuit I stayed with the supplied Delrin plastic bushings. Honestly, I can't tell the difference when moving the assembly by hand. Delrin is a slippery material and it's going to have very little meaningful friction on the metal parts of the steering assembly. Nothing wrong with installing bearings but I'd put that money towards a LiPo battery and LVM (low voltage monitor/alarm).

I had read that the delrin bushes won't be causing much in the way of friction but I'm thinking more of the wear and tear on the other plastic parts, also it's only about £3.50 or so for the bearing set, so not too bad.

The lipo route is quite tempting to get nice long run times but I'd need battery, charger, alarm etc etc which having just bought 2 vehicles I can't justify at the moment...
 
The LiPo route is quite tempting to get nice long run times but I'd need battery, charger, alarm etc etc which having just bought 2 vehicles I can't justify at the moment...

That's one of those investments that you just have to take the leap on eventually. But the benefit is immediate and long lasting. Best thing a person into RCs can do is go from powering their fleet with NiMH, to powering with LiPo.
 
That's one of those investments that you just have to take the leap on eventually. But the benefit is immediate and long lasting. Best thing a person into RCs can do is go from powering their fleet with NiMH, to powering with LiPo.

I have been thinking a bit more about it but I'm still a little concerned about the care needed with charging and storing etc compared with my nimh batteries.

I'm going to see how it goes with the nimhs I have at the moment and save a bit of money then possibly get myself something like this:

https://www.robotbirds.co.uk/defaul...chargers/x-charger-c6-balancer-6s-50watt.html
with a power supply
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-Conver...679775?hash=item58d8d0b9df:g:00YAAOSw8-tWZqBA

which will be about £30 ish

but then I've no real idea what I'm looking at for the batteries...from what I've read, probably 2s but beyond there I'm a bit lost. I'd want a hard case and be good for decent run times....so 5000mah??

Any suggestions (bearing in mind I'm in the UK so Hobbyking might be a good bet for a supplier as far as I've heard.)
 
Charging and storage, though some may make it seem more intimidating, is really fairly straight forward. Alot of worthwhile chargers have a function for a storage charge. Leaving them at around 3.7-3.8V per cell. If you do that, they will be fine for a while. For charging, use a lipo bag and charge at 1C. 1C refers to 1 x the Capacity of the battery. For your 5000mAh battery for example, you would charge at 5A. 1 x 5000mA = 5A If you charge at 1C it's hard to damage the battery. Also keep an eye on the cell voltages. If any cell starts to deviate from the others in the battery it is smart to balance charge it a couple times to attempt to bring it back in line with the others. If it continues to deviate, that cell will fail causing the battery to fail.

For a battery, 2s is what most use on stock electronics. Look for something, as you said, around 5000mAh and 30C or higher.
 
Wow that charger is very cheap.

I used to worry about charging my LiPos but I got over it. Basically my precautions are these:
- never charge when no one's home,
- always charge in a fire-safe LiPo bag,
- charge on a stone floor with nothing flammable nearby (you might use a flower pot if that's practical with the charge lead).

I don't even worry about storage charging. I store them with a full charge. They may not last as long that way, but I'm a spontaneous kind of guy and I want to be able to take my RCs for a blast whenever I feel like, not 30 mins after whenever I feel like... My packs are about 10 months old and they behave as new. Probably the most reliable part of my RC operation so far, lol.
 
Charging and storage, though some may make it seem more intimidating, is really fairly straight forward. Alot of worthwhile chargers have a function for a storage charge. Leaving them at around 3.7-3.8V per cell. If you do that, they will be fine for a while. For charging, use a LiPo bag and charge at 1C. 1C refers to 1 x the Capacity of the battery. For your 5000mAh battery for example, you would charge at 5A. 1 x 5000mA = 5A If you charge at 1C it's hard to damage the battery. Also keep an eye on the cell voltages. If any cell starts to deviate from the others in the battery it is smart to balance charge it a couple times to attempt to bring it back in line with the others. If it continues to deviate, that cell will fail causing the battery to fail.

For a battery, 2s is what most use on stock electronics. Look for something, as you said, around 5000mAh and 30C or higher.

That makes it sound rather more simple than I thought. though how does one keep an eye on cell voltages and then do a balance charge?
 
That makes it sound rather more simple than I thought. though how does one keep an eye on cell voltages and then do a balance charge?

This can be done a couple ways. If you have a multi-meter you can put it in DC voltage mode and look at the cells on the balance connector. If not, buy a low voltage alarm that has a digital display. It will tell you each individual cells voltage.

Some chargers have a separate function specifically for balancing cells. If yours doesn't, just make sure you use the balance board when charging whenever you can. Some people will charge only with the main leads. I always hook up the balance board.
 
Oh I see, not that tricky then, I like the sound of the LVA with a digital display, sounds as though it would make things very simple indeed.

I've seen a lot of recommendations for the Overlander RC6-VSR 80watt 7A Output AC/DC Charger
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overla...a-output-ac-dc-charger/rc-car-products/408440

It's a bit more expensive than some I've been looking at but seems to have higher output and balance function built in which seems good.
 
That one almost fits, but not quite. It is too thick. My 22mm packs fit with some room to spare, but my 25mm doesn't. You can't turn the plastic thumb locks without taking some box cutters to them.
 
Right, think I've decided.

This is what I'm thinking

battery:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5200mah-2s-30c-hard-case-car-LiPo-pack-roar-approved.html

with this adapter to go to EC3:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hxt4mm-to-ec3-battery-adapter-2pcs-bag.html

Or this adapter as the one above is coming from Hong Kong:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HXT4mm-to...hash=item2115ad0d85:m:m3lZrhXjzVoXMuxgOQe7vAQ

with this Low voltage alarm and cell checker:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-LiPo-voltage-checker-2s-8s.html

And this strap:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-strap-330mm.html

Anyone forsee any problems with this setup?
 
Last edited:
Oh lordy, I've only gone and ordered myself a LiPo and Low Voltage Alarm etc, I had no intention of doing so until yesterday when I decided I needed a better charger for my existing batteries and then went from there...lol
 

Latest posts

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top