Shock oil

Thank you for verifying what I was suspecting. I have been using a complete synthetic 30 weight straight and or 40 weight and it is been working very well! And I can get a qt. for the price of 2.oz!!
 
I also run straight 30w oil both of mine. In my crawler (axial wraith), I use 80/90 weight gear oil mixed with the 30 weight. Had to run 5/20 for the winter. They barely moved once they got cold with the gear oil...
 
It's been cold here so I have been using 20 weight in my shocks. Works absolutely wonderful nice and soft suspension.
 
It gets you by. I have done this for my nephew's MT, I didn't have shock oil work at the time. Eventually put shock oil in later.
I don't prefer this, due to its not shock oil per se'. It's also not my RC either, it's yours.

Filling up an shock only 1/2 full to 3/4 is not enough oil. You will have air in there, which will cause the shock to not work properly. You want to fill full, push out oil when screwing on cap, tighten down, and unscrew/re tighten without removing cap or moving shock shaft. This will kinda help bleed the air out that you put in when installing the shock cap.

High end shocks have a bleed screw.

I also hold shock shaft in like 1/4" out from being fully compressed, when installing cap. Idea is for the most part, the shock shaft not to push out or suck in by itself. If so, too much air.
Then you repeat if not properly freshened up. Adjust shock shaft distance when applying cap, until you get the shock shaft to do as I described above.
 
It gets you by. I have done this for my nephew's MT, I didn't have shock oil work at the time. Eventually put shock oil in later.
I don't prefer this, due to its not shock oil per se'. It's also not my RC either, it's yours.

Filling up an shock only 1/2 full to 3/4 is not enough oil. You will have air in there, which will cause the shock to not work properly. You want to fill full, push out oil when screwing on cap, tighten down, and unscrew/re tighten without removing cap or moving shock shaft. This will kinda help bleed the air out that you put in when installing the shock cap.

High end shocks have a bleed screw.

I also hold shock shaft in like 1/4" out from being fully compressed, when installing cap. Idea is for the most part, the shock shaft not to push out or suck in by itself. If so, too much air.
Then you repeat if not properly freshened up. Adjust shock shaft distance when applying cap, until you get the shock shaft to do as I described above.
It gets you by. I have done this for my nephew's MT, I didn't have shock oil work at the time. Eventually put shock oil in later.
I don't prefer this, due to its not shock oil per se'. It's also not my RC either, it's yours.

Filling up an shock only 1/2 full to 3/4 is not enough oil. You will have air in there, which will cause the shock to not work properly. You want to fill full, push out oil when screwing on cap, tighten down, and unscrew/re tighten without removing cap or moving shock shaft. This will kinda help bleed the air out that you put in when installing the shock cap.

High end shocks have a bleed screw.

I also hold shock shaft in like 1/4" out from being fully compressed, when installing cap. Idea is for the most part, the shock shaft not to push out or suck in by itself. If so, too much air.
Then you repeat if not properly freshened up. Adjust shock shaft distance when applying cap, until you get the shock shaft to do as I described above.
I have since ordered up silkolene shock oil I use it in all my motorcycle it'll work very well inside my RC and yes the Motor oil gets a little to sting when it gets warm thank you very much again!
 

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