Torment won't drive and turn at same time.

The steering servo is the little black box at the front just behind the shocks. It is what turns the front wheels left or right.

View attachment 7473
okay so i fully charged it for 9 hours and it still acts the same when i set it on the ground it moves really slow and doesn't turn also the esc keeps clicking and is flashing red idk what to do.
 
I would venture to say something is up with the ESC/RX. If you are handy with a multitester you could check voltage to the servo and stuff, but that's a bit more involved.
I would read the manual I linked thru and try rebinding the ESC/RX and see if that does anything, the ESC probably should not be making a clicking noise.
If you do have a local hobby shop, take the battery pack and the car in and see if they can trouble shoot it for you. I think this has been suggested once before.
They (if they are a reputable shop) should be able to tell if the battery pack is good or not, at least.
They may even be friendly enough to help diagnose the car, although I think it's the ESC/RX combo thing that is causing the issue, i was leaning towards the steering servo yesterday, but then again it's hard to diagnose over the internet.

So give the rebind a go and see if that helps.
 
I would venture to say something is up with the ESC/RX. If you are handy with a multitester you could check voltage to the servo and stuff, but that's a bit more involved.
I would read the manual I linked thru and try rebinding the ESC/RX and see if that does anything, the ESC probably should not be making a clicking noise.
If you do have a local hobby shop, take the battery pack and the car in and see if they can trouble shoot it for you. I think this has been suggested once before.
They (if they are a reputable shop) should be able to tell if the battery pack is good or not, at least.
They may even be friendly enough to help diagnose the car, although I think it's the ESC/RX combo thing that is causing the issue, i was leaning towards the steering servo yesterday, but then again it's hard to diagnose over the internet.

So give the rebind a go and see if that helps.
okay so hobby shop but rebind first. can we send videos on here lol
 
I would venture to say something is up with the ESC/RX. If you are handy with a multitester you could check voltage to the servo and stuff, but that's a bit more involved.
I would read the manual I linked thru and try rebinding the ESC/RX and see if that does anything, the ESC probably should not be making a clicking noise.
If you do have a local hobby shop, take the battery pack and the car in and see if they can trouble shoot it for you. I think this has been suggested once before.
They (if they are a reputable shop) should be able to tell if the battery pack is good or not, at least.
They may even be friendly enough to help diagnose the car, although I think it's the ESC/RX combo thing that is causing the issue, i was leaning towards the steering servo yesterday, but then again it's hard to diagnose over the internet.

So give the rebind a go and see if that helps.
so the rebind was success but not a success of fixing my issue i told my papa about the esc/rx making that noise and now i just heard another noise when you go to throttle the car it makes this beeping constant noise which i never brought up and i knew about which might help a little bit more idk i'm frustrated i might just order new components fr (motor, ESC/Rx and servo)
 
if this is an old battery, I've yet to see anything here that rules it out as the cause. you can charge it for 3 days straight and it can put out correct voltage and still be dead under load. you'd need to measure voltage drop and amps to tell for sure. happens with car batteries all the time. a voltage test on a battery is only going to tell you if there is something badly defective like an entire dropped cell.

Id test with a known good battery first before moving onto anything else. simplest solution first before shotgun parts at it
 
if this is an old battery, I've yet to see anything here that rules it out as the cause. you can charge it for 3 days straight and it can put out correct voltage and still be dead under load. you'd need to measure voltage drop and amps to tell for sure. happens with car batteries all the time. a voltage test on a battery is only going to tell you if there is something badly defective like an entire dropped cell.

Id test with a known good battery first before moving onto anything else. simplest solution first before shotgun parts at it
so get a battery first then lol
 

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