ECX Metal Gear Set

....with everything except the rear shock connected...move the rear tire up and down as you spin the wheel and notice the difference in the "feel/resistance". Next, remove the rear hub carrier and pop out the axle shaft....now spin again at different suspension travel(up/down points)....notice the difference in the "feel/resistance". *If you have not identified the problem when doing this...then My best guess, is that the grease you applied to the diff is blending and working itself in.
 
Hi.
I just bought a 1/10 Ruckus 2WD for my son on Christmas. After running it for a few weeks we noticed some strange noises coming from the transmission case. I pulled the outer gear casing and ran it. Both pinion gear and the bigger gear appear to be working fine. Are there any KNOWN issues with the other gears deeper within the transmission? Thanks
 
The bearings are known to break easily. If none of the gears in the gearbox are damaged, that would be the next likely thing to cause noise.
 
Hi.
I just bought a 1/10 Ruckus 2WD for my son on Christmas. After running it for a few weeks we noticed some strange noises coming from the transmission case. I pulled the outer gear casing and ran it. Both pinion gear and the bigger gear appear to be working fine. Are there any KNOWN issues with the other gears deeper within the transmission? Thanks
Also make sure there is no dirt or other residue in side the individual teeth of the spur/pinion gears.
 
Is it typical to go deep into inner gears with these RC’s? This is my ( and my sons) first RC.
Thanks for the replies James and Biz
 
Thanks Street. Doully noted.
I have no problems tearing all the control arms, suspension, nuts and bolts off. But I’d be lying if I said I’m less than confident in tearing into the gears. Lol
But I will!
 
Don't be intimidated by the inside of the gearbox, it's really not that complicated once you open it up. To me, tearing apart the arms, suspension, and hardware was more complicated than actually swapping the gears. All in all, these cars are pretty easy to work on, it's just a matter of doing it once and you'll be plenty confident.
 
*(In my opinion)...The rear suspension arms are quite a bit more of a hassle to remove Versus removing the transmission and opening it up.
-LoL, those rear arm hinge pins can be difficult, and there is not anything difficult about the trans mounting or whats inside.
 
Thanks Street. Doully noted.
I have no problems tearing all the control arms, suspension, nuts and bolts off. But I’d be lying if I said I’m less than confident in tearing into the gears. Lol
But I will!

I just got into the hobby myself and made the mistake of not upgrading the transmission gears when I swapped to a brushless motor. I was a little nervous digging into the gears but I can tell you it was simple. I had everything swapped in probably 30 minutes.
 
Upgraded the metal gears last month when I upgraded to a brushless system and today I discover that my upgraded drivetrain, tires, pinion and powerful motor..completely shattered the top shaft gear of the metal gear set. Super fun since you can’t buy just that one gear. I’m not going to blame the guy that didn’t lube the gears...
 
*Its hard to describe with words....the case isnt jammed packed with it. There is room to breathe around the idler gears and diff gear themselves.(I can fit a toothpick around the gears without getting grease on the toothpick...as an example, the remaining areas filled up by the grease.)
-Should any water driving time happen...almost the entire trans case is sealed with the grease. Also, any wear from the metal gears...will 100% get flung outwards and remain caught into the extra grease, not re-distrubuted back through the gears.
I might be the guy your talking about i was on here preaching love for life. Lol. And itnslunds like the idlers gear in his differential I had the same problem. It got real crunchy then eventually no drive. I've had every part of these cars off and apart as when I went brushless 3S I broke literally everything and had to makenitnwork.
 
Hi - new member. I’ve upgraded my AMP MT to metal gear set, 3000 kv, 2S lipo, and 2.8 off road tires. Question - with the metal diff I’ve lost limited slip. In OE set up I’d still get some power to the tire with traction. Now all power goes to a free wheel and I’m getting hung up all the time in mild conditions like grass where one wheel in air and other is just in grass or dirt. Free wheel just spins. I opened the diff and seems to be ~1/2 filled with silicone diff oil. So - what weight diff oil should I use and how packed should I fill it? I bash in dirt/grass half the time in bigger tires and the other in the stock tires on pavement. Looking for the one size fits all recommendation. Thanks!!!
 

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