ECX13010 servo binding

C

CDV

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ECX AMP MT

I just bought a new steering servo to replace the original one (Spektrum S607), after it went up in smoke. Now I have the trouble that the new servo does not operate at all, when connected to the original ESC receiver combo ECX13010. The new steering servo (SAVÖX SV-0220MG) only ticks but does not move in any way.

What do I need to do to get the servo working?

Link to servo tech spec: https://www.savox-servo.com/Servos-...0MG-Digital-High-Voltage-DC-Motor-Metal-Gear/

Edit: Together with my son, we've just measured the ESC servo output voltage. There are available 6,5V between red and black wire. The white is providing the actual steering signal, between 0,15 and 0,35V.

Does anybody know how to continue?
 
Last edited:
CDV said:
ECX AMP MT

I just bought a new steering servo to replace the original one (Spektrum S607), after it went up in smoke. Now I have the trouble that the new servo does not operate at all, when connected to the original ESC receiver combo ECX13010. The new steering servo (SAVÖX SV-0220MG) only ticks but does not move in any way.

What do I need to do to get the servo working?

Link to servo tech spec: https://www.savox-servo.com/Servos-...0MG-Digital-High-Voltage-DC-Motor-Metal-Gear/

Edit: Together with my son, we've just measured the ESC servo output voltage. There are available 6,5V between red and black wire. The white is providing the actual steering signal, between 0,15 and 0,35V.

Does anybody know how to continue?
Click to expand...
Oh dear! That sounds a bit worrying. Either you have been sold duff servo or the receiver is damaged. I recommend you buy a servo tester. You can get one for under €10 from Amazon. https://amzn.eu/d/7C4gqSm
If the servo is bad, send it back. If it is OK, then you need to replace or upgrade the receiver.
TD
 
Thank you TD for the feedback, testing the servo is a good idea. I guess I could also use a generic power source for it, but I would need to know what is the right voltage. Do you know what voltage is on the third wire?
 
It's not a steady voltage, it's a pulse train. The width of the pulses varies from 1 millisecond to 2 milliseconds to control the servo position, that's why you need the servo tester.
TD
 
It sounds more like in frying the servo he may have also fryed the channel on the rx/esc as well , those 2 in 1 rx/esc units are prone to failure like that.
 
I hate to suggest shotgunning parts (replacing as a guess method), but those esc/rx combos are notoriously unreliable for failing, and failing in electronic manners that make pinpoint diagnostics a real pain. I would unload it for a traditional seperate ESC and receiver and go from there (assuming you trust the new servo)
 
Thank all of you for the feedback. Ill continue as TD proposes, narrowing down the problem with the servo tester.
Nevertheless, always eager to learn, a question for TD: Where is specified the pulse train voltage?

Edit
And TD, re servo tester: Do I need a battery box or can I use the battery from AMP MT as voltage supply?

Edit 2
In the meantime I found out, that I can use any battery pack at hand, providing between 4,8 and 6V. Remaining is the question about where is specified the pulse train voltage?

Edit 3: Pulse train voltage explained shortly on Wikipedia: Servo control. That means, you'd need an oscilloscope to measure the pulse width on the steering wire.
 
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Yes, the servo should have on the side of it or on its website what input voltage and current should be, you can use any power source that satisfies that. Many adapters for electronics do something in the range of 5v dc 1 amp. For the control side, white wire, that’s pulse width. The oscilloscope would help visualize the wave, but that’s really just watching the signal being sent not creating the signal. So you might be able to diagnose the esc/receiver as bad if it wasn’t outputting the correct wave, but you wouldn’t be able to send the correct wave to the servo to see if it works. I’ve really only seen PWM technical data posted for extremely high end electronics.
 
CDV said:
Thank all of you for the feedback. Ill continue as TD proposes, narrowing down the problem with the servo tester.
Nevertheless, always eager to learn, a question for TD: Where is specified the pulse train voltage?

Edit
And TD, re servo tester: Do I need a battery box or can I use the battery from AMP MT as voltage supply?

Edit 2
In the meantime I found out, that I can use any battery pack at hand, providing between 4,8 and 6V. Remaining is the question about where is specified the pulse train voltage?

Edit 3: Pulse train voltage explained shortly on Wikipedia: Servo control. That means, you'd need an oscilloscope to measure the pulse width on the steering wire.
Click to expand...
You have already established that the supply voltage to the servo is OK. These testers normally come with one servo extension cable. Plug this into the servo socket on the receiver and the power input side of the tester. Plug the servo into the output side of the tester. The tester will have a button on it that allows you to select one of three modes: Central, Knob, or Wiper. In Central mode the servo should stop in its middle position. In Knob mode you can twiddle the knob and control the servo. In Wiper mode it will drive the servo from end to end repeatedly. The actual servo control signal is a 1 to 2 millisecond positive going pulse every 20 milliseconds. In the pre-digital days, these pulses were time-division multiplexed on to the radio signal and demultiplexed to the individual servos by the receiver.
 
Update: Servo tester arrived last week, test was done last weekend. I first used the rx/esc as power supply, there was constant blinking of LEDs on servo tester. So I took a 5V power supply instead, resulting in a normal behaviour of the servo tester. Subsequent servo test showed it is OK.

So obviously servo frying event also fried rx/esc...

Brings up new question/ Any recommendations for new rx/esc setup? Any option to reuse existing tx?

Edit: Any thank you all for input; Two steps ahead, one step back =)
 
CDV said:
Update: Servo tester arrived last week, test was done last weekend. I first used the rx/esc as power supply, there was constant blinking of LEDs on servo tester. So I took a 5V power supply instead, resulting in a normal behaviour of the servo tester. Subsequent servo test showed it is OK.

So obviously servo frying event also fried rx/esc...

Brings up new question/ Any recommendations for new rx/esc setup? Any option to reuse existing tx?

Edit: Any thank you all for input; Two steps ahead, one step back =)
Click to expand...

I don't love the cheap 2S/3S esc/motor combos on amazon/ebay for all out performance, but for a basher they work really, really well for the price point. The early versions had problems with ESCs lighting on fire from cheap components but that seems to be a thing of the past. Something like a 3650 is a great upgrade. I would absolutely not waste time upgrading to an aftermarket brushed ESC, you mind as well put that money down your toilet. I can't answer your question about the tx, usually I try and run a paired tx/rx, and I found upgrading from the stock tx was an upgrade in and of itself (I didn't go crazy, just a dumborc x6, that I still use to this day for bashing and competition).
 

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