Motor mount issues

1

19chonas76

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8
I recently upgraded a 1/10 2wd ruckus and torment to a brushless setup and I’m having problems with the motor mount on the ruckus. The screw holes where the motor mounts aren’t staying where they should. The one that has the slot keeps sliding away from the spur gear. Is there a aluminum motor mount that I can use or one from another brand of rc? I haven’t been able to find one. The torment hasn’t developed this issue yet but I’ve had to upgrade it to a hardened transmission. I’m currently just waiting on the ruckus to develop that issue before I replace it. I’m only running a 2s with stock spur gear and a 19 tooth spinion gear and a 4000kv motor. Heat hasn’t been an issue yet because it’s barely gotten warm to the touch. Thanks in advance
 
19chonas76 said:
I recently upgraded a 1/10 2wd ruckus and torment to a brushless setup and I’m having problems with the motor mount on the ruckus. The screw holes where the motor mounts aren’t staying where they should. The one that has the slot keeps sliding away from the spur gear. Is there a aluminum motor mount that I can use or one from another brand of rc? I haven’t been able to find one. The torment hasn’t developed this issue yet but I’ve had to upgrade it to a hardened transmission. I’m currently just waiting on the ruckus to develop that issue before I replace it. I’m only running a 2s with stock spur gear and a 19 tooth spinion gear and a 4000kv motor. Heat hasn’t been an issue yet because it’s barely gotten warm to the touch. Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

There is not one available.

I used aftermarket button head allen screw with a large m3 washer to get a lot of surface area to bite into the plastic mount. red loctite, tightened to snug. try to get in there and really clean the mount surface and the slot out really well to give it a good chance to "bite".
 
95PGTTech said:
There is not one available.

I used aftermarket button head allen screw with a large m3 washer to get a lot of surface area to bite into the plastic mount. red loctite, tightened to snug. try to get in there and really clean the mount surface and the slot out really well to give it a good chance to "bite".
Click to expand...
Do you remember what size and length you used
 
95PGTTech said:
m3 x 12mm button head screw
3mm x 8mm washer

nothing special, out of an amazon stainless steel assortment kit
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’m going to check with a buddy of mine that owns a cnc shop and see if he’d make me 2 out of billet aluminum or what he would charge for a more permanent fix. Wonder if there’s be a market for that
 
95PGTTech said:
m3 x 12mm button head screw
3mm x 8mm washer

nothing special, out of an amazon stainless steel assortment kit
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’m going to check with a buddy of mine that owns a cnc shop and see if he’d make me 2 out of billet aluminum or what he would charge for a more permanent fix. Wonder if there’d be a market for that
 
Motor mounting screws aren't unique per`sae. There are plenty of aftermarket screws you could purchase, and probably far cheaper than the labor cost in having someone make them. Now if your buddy is a close friend, maybe he will do it, just because he likes you enough.

You can find billet, titanium, stainless, or just the stock steel button head screws just about anywhere.
 
19chonas76 said:
Thanks. I’m going to check with a buddy of mine that owns a cnc shop and see if he’d make me 2 out of billet aluminum or what he would charge for a more permanent fix. Wonder if there’d be a market for that
Click to expand...

Do you mean a billet bolt or a billet motor plate? The motor plate would make sense, design wise. I don't recall ever running across a billet bolt in all my years of racing. The exotic non-standard stuff is generally forged, hardened, or titanium (for weight). The motor plate is part of the transmission housing, so there's going to be significant work on your end *OR* significant cost if he's going to make a billet transmission housing. In which case, I'd put an entirely different transmission in it.

Just put a couple good decent bolts and washers in it. Plenty of us are running 2S and 3S (I was running 4S on a 3674) and doing just fine (I was on 48P and 32P at different times).
 
Maybe I misread, I assumed we were talking about the motor mounting screws.
Now I can see that we may have been talking about the motor plate itself.
 
slick2500 said:
He's asking about both.
Click to expand...
It's all good, there are a plethora of motor mounting screws in various metal composites out there.
I may be one of the exceptions though, I so far have not had any issues with my motor moving, I have destroyed several plastic spur gears with too much POWA!!!!! But the motor never moved. I am using the stock screws with a flat washer and a star lock washer. no loc-tite.
 
WithinU said:
It's all good, there are a plethora of motor mounting screws in various metal composites out there.
I may be one of the exceptions though, I so far have not had any issues with my motor moving, I have destroyed several plastic spur gears with too much POWA!!!!! But the motor never moved. I am using the stock screws with a flat washer and a star lock washer. no loc-tite.
Click to expand...
I just checked mine and I do have star washers on them as well.
 
You want the largest plain washers that will fit in the space, to give you friction against the plate. Then star washers to stop the screws from turning. Finally button-head or cap-head screws so that you can torque them up tighter than you can with Phillips heads. Most motors will allow 5 mm of screw penetration; add on the thickness of the plate and washers to get the perfect screw length. With this arrangement you should not need any Loctite.
 
95PGTTech said:
Do you mean a billet bolt or a billet motor plate? The motor plate would make sense, design wise. I don't recall ever running across a billet bolt in all my years of racing. The exotic non-standard stuff is generally forged, hardened, or titanium (for weight). The motor plate is part of the transmission housing, so there's going to be significant work on your end *OR* significant cost if he's going to make a billet transmission housing. In which case, I'd put an entirely different transmission in it.

Just put a couple good decent bolts and washers in it. Plenty of us are running 2S and 3S (I was running 4S on a 3674) and doing just fine (I was on 48P and 32P at different times).
Click to expand...
I was referring to the motor mount plate. My son has some friends that can 3d print, I might see what they’d charge to print one out of some stuff composite
 

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