Shoulder screws coming out of the RPM caster block

Can you get aluminum hexes that are just the same as stock? Maybe with a set screw to hold in place
 
I can tell what worked for my sons amp on the stock steering. 3mm Helicoils. They worked really well until he hit a telegraph pole. Didn't loose the screw though, it did pull the helicoil out, not all the way out but far enough to uncoil it, the screw was in the half that was pulled out. After this i bought stock ones again and was very careful not to go too far as i tightened. Haven't had the issue since. No CA just very careful when tightening. if i do, more helicoils.
 
I just had this problem over the weekend. Stopped by the hobby shop to and they suggested trying plumbers tape. I think I might try it and if that doesn't work I might go with the super glue option.
 
To fix the shoulder screw issue you really need to just buy the aluminum ecx spindles, in Canada there about 40ish bucks ? Got mine a year ago so that number may be off a few.
I have to amps. One MT, one DB. I drive them both decently rough, racing, jumps, etc.. But I'm a decent driver so usually bad crashes are rare..
And honestly, I've tried it all.. new screws, plumbers tape... super glue... reaming out the blocks so theres not as much friction on the screw when it turns... they all work to a degree.. But there all just band-aids that will eventually leave you with lost screws and out of commisson for the afternoon.
Me and my cousin (who also has an amp, so that's' 3 total) finally broke down and bought the aluminum spindles, new screws, and some blue threadlocker, popped em in - and have never looked back.
We did this a year ago and there hasnt been any issues yet.
This is the only real way to fix the issue...
I know when I was upgrading my amps, put alot of money into other upgrades and such, but this is worth the money. I know it sucks to soak up the 40bucks on such a stupid part.
But its worth it.
 
Its actually an ECX design flaw. If you have a look at the shoulder screw itself, the amount of thread that actually enters the spindle is only a few mm. I lost some screws and decided to try and get it temporarily and running with some regular 3mm screws and a makeshift spacer. I ended using 8mm lengths instead of 6mm and it screws in so much more snugly without hitting the bearings. Without any threadlocker, the screws still back out a little.

Aluminum spindles (ECX or Hot Racing) and threadlocker seems to be the only reliable way to get this all rock solid.
 
It is the only way.. 100%.
You dont need the aluminum castor blocks either if that's a concern.
Even the rpm parts do it... aluminum spindles and threadlock is the only way.
Spend the money, do it once - never look back.
 
after many shoulder screws coming loose, or lost, bought the Hot racing aluminium knuckles, lets hope they arrive before the CA works itself loose again. Bought 4 sets, 1 for each car, for $100 AUD from ebay posted. Cant believe its cheaper to buy from the States than it is to buy here in Australia. Would have cost us $150 plus postage if i bought locally.
 
Been having this issue with my son's AMP MT for a while now - driving me nuts, once the shoulder screws have come out once the spindle block threads are stuffed - no amount of glue will help with the soft nylon plastic.

solution is to get some inserts pressed in:

1. drill out the spindle block hole to 4mm
2. Brass insert (barbed) 3mm internal thread, 4mm external - got mine from ebay for £4 - length either 4 or 5mm
3. press into the spindle block using vice - I guess mole grips would work, but a lot more fiddly
4. Permanent threadlock the shoulder screws in

I own two Associated B4's - the B4 spindle blocks fit, but the front axles are a different design (even the hex conversion ones, and too short for the AMP wheels - offered it all up from spares I have and decided against it.
 

Attachments

  • 20190819_214657.jpg
    20190819_214657.jpg
    77.3 KB · Views: 13
  • 20190819_214709.jpg
    20190819_214709.jpg
    35.4 KB · Views: 11
  • 20190819_214948.jpg
    20190819_214948.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 12
  • 20190819_215042.jpg
    20190819_215042.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 14
I'll add my 2 cents, since it looks like we've all had the same problem.

My shoulder bolts kept popping out on a regular basis (seems like once they pop out once, the threads are never the same). I ended up using a touch of JB weld (2 part epoxy). So far, it's held up to several hours of bashing whereas before it was popping out every 20 minutes.
 
Ive done the brass insert on rpms.....epoxied with jb weld plasti-weld epoxy and the inserts have popped out.....time to order aluminum spindles.
 
Well, it took 2 weeks of bashing and abuse but the JB weld finally popped. Strangely enough, one side that still has the original spindle and screws (the screws never popped out on that side) is still holding strong.
 
Yeah. Ive bashed my ruckus hard for years.....only thing i ever broke were axles and motor guard. Once i upgraded my ruckus to new steering servo and rpm parts its been nothing but problems with these shoulder screws. I just installed hot racing spindles (only ones i could find) and used blue locktite.....will bash it tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
Okay. This issue with the RPM front spindle blocks is now officially driving me crazy. My day at the track was just about ruined as I was having to replace the shoulder screw every few minutes. Fortunately I only actually lost one screw. I was able to track down the missing screw most times.

Super glue is no longer holding the screws in place. I think that the threads have actually been stripped in on spindle block.

I'm probably just going to have to go back to the stock spindle blocks! At least the shoulder screws threaded in TIGHTLY!

Any ideas for making this work? PTFE tape on the threads?
ALUMINUM STEERING KNUCKLES.
 
been using Aluminium knuckles now for well over a year never had one come loose. Aluminium is the only way to go. I see you can buy them from china now for $15 Aussie
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top