Used a LiPo battery and now the Ruckus is dead

mhmyers

Member
Messages
5
Grandpa (me) figured that a 7.2 v battery is the same regardless of the material. So I bought a LiPo 7.2v battery for my 10 year old grandson's Ruckus (original version from 5 years ago). It worked great, faster than ever. Now the red light on the chassis near the power button just beeps and flashes continuously until it just turns off. It will move forward a few feet, backward with great difficulty about a foot, then starts the red light flashing. Is there a way to fix this? If not, is there a RC car like this one that is 1/10 and does use a LiPo battery? Any suggestions are welcome; grandpa is not well-liked right now by my 5 year old granddaughter and 10 year old grandson. They broke the antenna on the control and I thought that they caused it to stop working but then I read the manual and it said "not for use with LiPo batteries"
 
I'm pretty new to this but I'll give this an attempted answer.
Does it do the same when you put in a NiMH battery?
Have you let it cool down and try again without the lipo?
Do you have the proper charger for the lipo battery?
It may be a battery issue where you drained the lipo too low and now its not charging.
You also may have fried the ESC. You can buy a new ESC if that is the case. I would suggest a visit to the local hobby shop for some diagnostics. If you are in the market for new ESC, I would look at the ESC/motor combo and buy a brushless one.

Hope that helps point you in the right direction
 
Thanks! It does the same thing with the NiMH battery that came with it. The charger that came with it stopped working and the online Hobby store recommended a new one that seems to take all the batteries beyond 7.2 volts, but maybe that's normal. There is no button to set it to stop, it stops by itself and when the light turns green, you have filled your battery. I don't know what an ESC is, but I'd be happy to contact a hobby store online to by one and a motor combo if that would help. I did let the car cool down, I used it the next day after it worked continuously the day before, and none of the newly charged batteries worked (2 NiMH and 1 LiPo). I know the place I bought it is out of business here in Sacramento, but maybe there's another one somewhere nearby. Otherwise, I will have to tell an online rc hobby store what is going on and do whatever they say.
 
Yeah the manual does state very clearly that NiCd and or NiMh packs ONLY.
Now wether or not it should handle a LiPo pack is another question.
You can purchase another stock ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), but then you should probably stay with using NiMh packs only.
Or you can find a cheap brushed or brushless upgrade combo, both ESC and motor.
Personally I would go brushless, IF you are upgrading. Brushless setup should handle NiMh and LiPo's easily, with a small change to the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff). But you can decide that.

Stock ESC https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamite-tazer-15t-brushed-waterproof-fwd-rev-esc-dyn4925wp/p424978

The link doesn't mean you have to purchase from them, but this is what you are looking for and what the ESC looks like.
For the price on this stock part you can find a cheap brushless combo, but keep in mind "cheaper", actually means cheaper, both in price and maybe quality at times.

Brushless combo https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-365...376475&hash=item4b62c3f71f:g:uoMAAOSwVRxctZrF
 
Yeah the manual does state very clearly that NiCd and or NiMh packs ONLY.
Now wether or not it should handle a LiPo pack is another question.
You can purchase another stock ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), but then you should probably stay with using NiMh packs only.
Or you can find a cheap brushed or brushless upgrade combo, both ESC and motor.
Personally I would go brushless, IF you are upgrading. Brushless setup should handle NiMh and LiPo's easily, with a small change to the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff). But you can decide that.

Stock ESC https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamite-tazer-15t-brushed-waterproof-fwd-rev-esc-dyn4925wp/p424978

The link doesn't mean you have to purchase from them, but this is what you are looking for and what the ESC looks like.
For the price on this stock part you can find a cheap brushless combo, but keep in mind "cheaper", actually means cheaper, both in price and maybe quality at times.

Brushless combo https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-365...376475&hash=item4b62c3f71f:g:uoMAAOSwVRxctZrF

Thank you! What do I do to make the "small change to the LVC"?
 
Hey all. I want to provide some clarification regarding the use of LiPo batteries in these cars: the power system doesn't really care about the chemistry of the battery. The reason why the documentation indicated "not for use with LiPos" is that the ESC likely did not provide for low-voltage cut-off.

Compared to nickel chemistry batteries, lithium chemistry batteries are a bit more fragile in that you have to not over-charge, over-discharge, or discharge at too high a rate. Any of these uses will damage the battery and can cause the battery to combust (burst into flame). The trade off is that they have a much higher power density than nickel chemistry batteries, they are lighter, and have a much lower internal resistance.

To prevent draining a LiPo battery to too low a voltage, "LiPo compatible" ESCs feature either a built-in low voltage cut-off (LVC) which completely stops the car once the battery drains to a pre-set voltage or a low voltage alarm (LVA) which is a LOUD alarm/beeping once the battery drains to the pre-set.

The ESC in less-expensive ECX cars do not have any LVC/LVA features so you need to either stick to using nickel chemistry batteries or purchase an external LVA. LVAs are small and inexpensive and plug into the balance plug of the LiPo battery pack.

Finally a note about charging the battery beyond the voltage listed on the label: That number is more than a little confusing as that is the "resting" voltage of the pack and not its "full" voltage. A "7.4V" pack will charge up to about 8.2V when actually "full."

Here's an excellent primer on LiPo batteries.

I'd recommend that you start with replacing the ESC-- the one in your truck sounds like it's probably damaged. The Dynamite Tazer ESC linked to by WithinU (above) is a good ESC for brushed motors. I think switching to brushless at this point will only add further complication and headache.
 
Thank you! What do I do to make the "small change to the LVC"?

Esc's have settings that can be changed either by jumpers or by programming button also program cards depending on the esc you buy. The small change to LVC is to change the setting on the esc by aforementioned methods. Lipos have a voltage that the lipo should not go below 3.0v per cell (2s lipo 2cells 3s 3cells and so on) usually although some say never go below a certain voltage that can vary (higher) depending on manufacturer. Some escs have a set LVC voltage while others can be changed. The Nimh setting has a much lower voltage cutoff level that is not safe to use with lipos the LVC (lipo cutoff) setting is to prevent the lipo's from over discharging to a unsafe level.

I also have a suggestion for a new brushed esc with Lipo cutoff (LVC) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerhobby...C-60A-For-1-10-Car-Truck-Crawler/302725554036 it's basically a rebrand Hobbywing WP1060 another esc I would recommend but it comes with a Tamiya connector while the one in the link comes with deans (T-plug) already soldered on. You probably will need an adapter I don't know what connector your esc and/or battery have now but heres a link to deans to Ec3 plug that you might have that will work with the esc I linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerhobby...C-60A-For-1-10-Car-Truck-Crawler/302725554036.

You need a charger capable of charging lipo's if you want to continue to use them heres a couple cheap suggestions https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynamite-P...-Multichemistry-Charger-DYNC2030/173006500268 it's a basic charger that gets the job done but a charger that has storage and discharge functions plus a lcd readout would be better like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6AC-...harger-RC-Lipo-NiCd-NiMH-Battery/122547034863

Brushless would be a better option if you decide you're willing to spend more money but a new brushed esc with a LVC option will get you back up and running more safely while using lipos. Some may suggest a lipo alarm this will beep (make noise) to alert you when a lipo gets below a certain voltage you select but it won't stop the vehicle from continuing to run and drain a lipo below a safe voltage but that's what LVC does shut's power off to the motor so you don't keep running draining the battery.

Edit: i_r_beej beat me to the link at Rogers Hobby center for a lipo guide.
 
Last edited:
Awesome post's guy's.
Witch ever way you decide to go, it doesn't matter to us, we are just here to help. No one way is the "best" way.
All depends on what your destination is.

I will add that IF you do decide a newer charger is on the list. I have 2 of the Imax-B6AC chargers that @Heyitsme linked to. They work great, and they are actually $8 cheaper than what I paid, last November.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6AC-50W-AC-DC-Brand-New-Balance-Charger-RC-Lipo-NiCd-NiMH-Battery/122547034863

So some good info posted, let us know what path you take, and as always if you have any other questions feel free to ask.
We have a great bunch of members here to help.
 
Yeah the manual does state very clearly that NiCd and or NiMh packs ONLY.
Now wether or not it should handle a LiPo pack is another question.
You can purchase another stock ESC (Electronic Speed Controller), but then you should probably stay with using NiMh packs only.
Or you can find a cheap brushed or brushless upgrade combo, both ESC and motor.
Personally I would go brushless, IF you are upgrading. Brushless setup should handle NiMh and LiPo's easily, with a small change to the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff). But you can decide that.

Stock ESC https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamite-tazer-15t-brushed-waterproof-fwd-rev-esc-dyn4925wp/p424978

The link doesn't mean you have to purchase from them, but this is what you are looking for and what the ESC looks like.
For the price on this stock part you can find a cheap brushless combo, but keep in mind "cheaper", actually means cheaper, both in price and maybe quality at times.

Brushless combo https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-365...376475&hash=item4b62c3f71f:g:uoMAAOSwVRxctZrF
WithinU (or anybody else who might know!),
I bought the brushless combo you recommended. It doesn't have an ON/OFF switch, and the instructions talk about a programme card to change various things like the cutoff and I don't see a program card. Do I need to buy more stuff? I've never done any of this before, so I know the questions are probably frustrating for you, but I can use all the help I can get; my grandson loved that Ruckus! I attached a picture of what is currently attached (with the red heat dissipation and ON/Off switch and screws that apparently attach it) and the new one with no apparent way to attach it, no on/off switch, and no way to program it.
 

Attachments

  • 20190629_110909[1].jpg
    20190629_110909[1].jpg
    146.4 KB · Views: 5
  • 20190629_110728[1].jpg
    20190629_110728[1].jpg
    134.7 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
WithinU (or anybody else who might know!),
I bought the brushless combo you recommended. It doesn't have an ON/OFF switch, and the instructions talk about a programme card to change various things like the cutoff and I don't see a program card. Do I need to buy more stuff? I've never done any of this before, so I know the questions are probably frustrating for you, but I can use all the help I can get; my grandson loved that Ruckus! I attached a picture of what is currently attached (with the red heat dissipation and ON/Off switch and screws that apparently attach it) and the new one with no apparent way to attach it, no on/off switch, and no way to program it.

The is no on/switch on that esc it's a push button switch there should be a red and black wire with a push button on the end that's how you turn the esc on/off. You need to buy a program card for that esc no way to change setting without one they are around $10 or less here's a link for what I am talking about https://www.ebay.com/itm/GoolRC-Pro...332411&hash=item3fbd30931b:g:90sAAOSwT-Fch23a. Plug the end that goes into the rx in the program card hold down the on/off button and program.
 
WithinU (or anybody else who might know!),
I bought the brushless combo you recommended. It doesn't have an ON/OFF switch, and the instructions talk about a programme card to change various things like the cutoff and I don't see a program card. Do I need to buy more stuff? I've never done any of this before, so I know the questions are probably frustrating for you, but I can use all the help I can get; my grandson loved that Ruckus! I attached a picture of what is currently attached (with the red heat dissipation and ON/Off switch and screws that apparently attach it) and the new one with no apparent way to attach it, no on/off switch, and no way to program it.

Well, if you purchased the one I linked too. It should have a on/off switch.
In the picture you posted, the second one, is that a picture of the GoolRc ESC(electronic speed control)?
In the lower left of the picture it shows a small black and red wire that loop around the corner, where do the ends of those wires go, that should be the on/off switch.

Attaching it to your RC is at your discretion. You can zip tie it to the chassis, you can go to your local craft shop and get some double sided sticky tape (probably the best option), you could probably also get some at a automotive store as well. You should mount it about in the same place the old one was, just so the motor wires from the ESC, reach the motor.

I do have to apologize, I wasn't thinking about a programming card initially. I should have linked a combo with one included. Sorry.
 
Sorry to jump in here, but I'm also having an issue with my recently purchased ruckus 1/18 4WD Monster Truck. I paid $100 for it and the LHS told me that I could use an upgraded battery for my truck. It's a lipo 2000mah battery 25C EC3. I noticed yesterday that when I was running my truck over loose gravel and dirt, that my truck would stop working. I would have to turn it off and on again at the ESC in order for it to keep working. Maybe because it was too hot outside here on south Texas or something? It didn't do that with the standard battery on grass later on in the afternoon, but it was also cooler. Thoughts? Thanks!
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top